I looked up reviews for the 18650 xpl version to find amp draws. (This is usually more accurate than lumens)
Bilakos10 measured 8.33A with a Samsung 25R cell, but that is not a very good battery.
Robo819 measured 8.4A with the Sofirn 18650 and 8.9 with an LG HE4 cell.
ImA4Wheelr measured 8.8A with the Sofirn 18650.
Barkuti measured 9.7A with a Samsung 30Q. He used a shunt as apposed to a clamp meter.
DB Custom drew 13.57 amps with a very high drain VTC5A 2600mah and with slightly lesser batteries, like a 30Q, he got between 10A and 11A. This was with 18ga led wires and an upgraded MOSFET though. So it doesn’t really count as stock.
Since the 18650 version is supposed to be about 2500 lumen and the 21700 version is supposed to be 3500 lumen I’m guessing there is some kind of bottleneck with this 21700 driver. The 21700 light should probably be drawing at least 12A to 13A stock to get 3500 lumen. Sofirn may have over rated this 21700 version. It might be a true 3000 lumen light.
3015.3 Lumens……………3018.75 Lumens…………….3125.7 Lumens
……2756.66 at 30 sec…………….2691 at 30 sec
This is stock from what is described.
Amp draw do not know.
After 18 gauge wires and new mosfet went well over 4000
Bottom line, If I can’t see the difference I do not need to be buying a new battery form just to be “like the new kids”
Like the New Version just can not justify another version at this time.
Thanks!
I think I figured out a small design flaw in the manufacturing that is causing reduced output.
It seems the new aluminum driver retaining ring is not able to fully tighten down on the driver (at least my driver). I thought it felt strange as it only tightened up to one point and then would go no further. I used some marker dots to confirm this. The ring seems to be squeezing the driver lightly instead of firmly.
The 2A difference I saw earlier with my battery tests and again a 1A difference after I swapped to 18 ga led wires. I can move the driver around when the retaining ring is about 1/16 of a turn from its “tightened” position.
So maybe the driver pcb is a bit thinner than it was supposed to be or maybe the threads are not cut far enough. Maybe they should have continued using a brass retaining ring. I’m not sure.
Thanks for the review and also the analysis on why the Sofirn C8F 21700 may sometimes be underperforming… Hope Sofirn will solve the “underperforming” issue soon.
Here’s an update. I swapped out the factory wires (I think 22ga) with some heavier 18ga. I ended up shortening them about an inch, but that’s barely long enough. I recommend 1/2” shorter at most.
Once I got a decent connection with the driver retaining ring, output jumped up quite a bit. Look at the bottom of the page. I was in a rush so I only did Turn On and 15 seconds for both tail amps and lumens with each battery.
The Sofirn battery gained about 2 amps and 400 lumen. 3,450 lumen, wow!
The 30T battery gained about 1.5 amps and 300 lumen.
The 50E battery gained about 1.4 amps and 300 lumen.
The little Samsung 30Q gained about 1 amp and 300 lumen.
So some pretty nice gains just by swapping to 18ga wire.
But I thought your lumen sphere is calibrated with Maukka lights so it should be reading about the same as mine. So if Dale’s measurements are similar to mine, then shouldn’t it be similar to yours?
Very nice info. So the 30T measured 3,400 lumens, which is less than the Sofirn 4000mah because of bad connection? Also the performance of the Sofirn 4000mah is very impressive. Seems like a rewrapped Samsung 40T.
I don’t know why, but my lumen tube seems to read a bit lower than others. Not so much with other TA Tubes, but with some other different designed measuring tubes.
Like when it comes to the xhp70.2. Dale can measure lights with that emitter at 6000-7500 lumen.
With my L6 I can only get 5300 lumen at turn on. This is with 2 different color temp leds and Liitokala cells drawing 17.6A. Even with Aspire 4300 cells drawing 19.6A, I only see 5500 lumen at turn on.
Keep in mind that Dale does not use a TA lumen tube. He uses a lumen tube design with no diffusers and calibrated by a wide variety of factory lights. (Unless he has recently bought a Maukka calibrated light). I think he always uses turn on numbers and never anything lower.
So I always take his, and everyones, lumen results with a grain of salt. People should not take my lumen numbers as exact, but just in general.
I am really surprised your lumen numbers and Dale’s are really close. Have you compared the output of several factory or modded lights between him and you or just a few?
Besides the C8F, I haven’t compared my numbers with any of his. I guess the diffuser on the TA tube evens out the beam for more accurate result whereas other lumen measuring devices might favor concentrated beams.