Astrolux S43 - New model (On Sale)

I can’t decide between aluminum or copper, CW or NW. :disappointed:

Jason I have several S41 and Manker E14 models with and without the copper heads and steel and Aluminium bodies. . The 18650 battery tubes in Aluminium pretty much level them out in weight distribution front to back. With the 18350 it’s a noticeably heavier copper head. With the 18650 tube the weight is still up front however you won’t feel it unless you balance it for grams. I prefer the copper heads myself.

Is it just because of the weight distribution or is there something else you prefer about the copper heads? Cheers.

@JasonWW, that is an easy decision.

1. Get copper for better heat dissapation and sinking.

2. Get the NW Nichia 219C version of course. 90+CRI, NW, and better tint means the 219C version is better overall.

You have to try it. I guarantee you’ll like it!

Thermal conductivity and a shiny exposed, fat slab of copper! Yes please.

Okay I went for the copper Nichia version. It seems the light will be ready Oct 31, but the 18650 tube not until Nov 10. I wonder if they will ship them seperate or hold until they can ship it all together?

I’m also assuming this light uses the common 20mm triple quad mcpcb that lots of places carries. If I don’t like the nichia, I can always try something else. Maybe even a different optic.

This is a quad

It using it’s own quad optic. Sadly it is smaller than carlco 10602 quad and bigger than a triple 10507 so nothing will fit perfect. The astrolux optic has 22mm diameter. The easiest way is to fit a triple because MSPCB is 20mm and the glass will hold it down or you need to reflow different leds to the factory MCPCB.

You know what I mean. :stuck_out_tongue: lol

Special optic? Oh man. I was really hoping to buy a bunch of different ones to try out. The few I’ve seen I didn’t like the beam pattern.

Sorry it’s late

For the 219c I get 1700 at max ramp, 3000 turbo

Turning the light on ramping straight to min and turning straight off disables the power button light until next use?

If you haven’t yet, you need to read up on the Narsil interface. It’s fairly intuitive, but there can still be questions like yours that are answered in the documentation. Unfortunately, I don’t have a direct link. But if you search around BLF, I’m sure you can find it yourself. (sorry)

Whenever you ramp up or down and release the button it will blink once to indicate it’s using the 7135. It will blink twice to indicate it’s using the FET.

There is a little glitch/feature where if you turn the light off during these blinks, the switch light will stay off until the next time you turn the light on again. This is not documented. It’s just something that was noticed.

You can also go into to the settings to turn the switch light off on a more permanent basis if you prefer.

Wondered if it was a glitch, the button feel in general is pretty w4nk. Hit it from an angle and nothing happens, hit it too lightly from dead on and nothing happens.

I have two of these and the button is quite sensitive on both - could not duplicate your issue - tried on both. Might just be your light

For what it’s worth

There’s no green led on the S43 I received. I’ve done a factory reset. The red charging led works…but when finished, the switch just goes black.

I’m guessing I got a bad one? I would surely have liked that led in the dark, and to see if the light is locked or not.

Switch is the only thing I didn’t like, the press had to be firm and centred.

Try turning it on at the lowest level and immediately ramping up slightly and down to min and turning it straight off.

so anyones status ich changed into “sent”?

Why are you telling him this?

Btw, you can temporarily make the green light stay off just by turning the light off while it’s still blinking after ramping. There’s no need to be elaborate or go to minimum.