You can reflow them yourself, but most of us, not including me of course, don’t have solder paste+temperature controlled hotplate. So it is out of the question unless you have it.
Leave a message saying you want 4000k 90CRI LH351Ds or 5000k 80CRI LH351Ds reflowed instead of the 219C, since they are about the same price He won’t mind at all.
I guess I have to buy a 21700 host from Sofirn and reflow the leds myself. I’ve got a cheap hot air station so I can clamp the mcpcb and heat it slowly from the bottom. I’ve got solder paste, but I think you can apply some wire solder to the pads, add some extra flux and then hot air to do the reflow. I need to watch more youtube hot air reflow videos.
Replaced the tail spring (large blue) and beefed up the bypass (20 gauge) on my C8F 21700 w/ LH351D 4000K 90CRI
3,177 at 0s w/ lightly used Vapcell 3750mAh 24A 21700
3,486 at 0s w/ topped off 30T Vapcell re-wrap
They use so much solder on their spring pad I was worried I would kill the switch trying to get it off since I do not have hot air gun. I clamped alligator clips on both switch legs and it seems to be fine.
Going to call this one done.
Have one more host but not sure what LEDs I wanna use with it just yet.
The C8F with 21700? There was a whole thread Tracy started, get it from Amazon via code, PM her to ask for it.
Just got mine today, charging the cell as I type. ~33bux for the kit, ie with light/cell/charger/cable. And from Amazon, so you get it in a week vs a month.
(Shouldda tried for 2, but had hinky things with coupons before. Ie, try for 2, can’t get it, retry for 1, “you have already used this coupon…”, balls…, so I decided to play it safe.)
And I can’t believe Utorsh has its own version out there. Flash sale at GB, 30bux without the kit.
Yeah, does kinda bug me when someone (not Mikey, even though I got nfi where Uppuwhatever might be ) asks “Where to get XYZ?”, people chime in, then 40 replies later, get “Oh, I’m in Lower M’Botho, and Amazon/GB/AX/anyone doesn’t deliver anything here.”.
Ummm, so put it in yer profile, or say so beforehand, maybe?
Anyhoo, yeah, ’twas a nice deal. Think I wanna get another one. :laughing:
I wonder if there’s any changes at all (firmware driver, the varying lumens due to varying tailcap current between samples…), other than the logo/branding?
I don’t see the point in measuring lumens at 0s only. It’s only for a split second, doubt we ever see that number other than in a lumen tube or similar.
I always measure at both 0s and 30s as it gives a more realistic rating. Also shows if a light can handle the heat
I just swapped out the older driver with Sofirn’s replacement driver and measured it with both Samsung 40T and 30T and got 2,870 lumens at 1s. Basically no difference at all
Check if the driver ring is making good contact like Jason noticed on his? Solder blob or shim it if not. I would probably redo the spring bypasses too with 20g