I have dealt with both Neal and Intl-outdoor before, both are great guys with awesome service! I am confident I will get my order perfect! Wish the actual wait time was shorter but I understand it is not under their control.
Anyone received their D4S with the amber aux leds? I only seen one picture so far…
ToyKeeper thanks for responding! The brighter one on the right is the new one. The one on the left is actually a normal high but the newer one overpowered my camera making it look dim in comparison. The D4S on the left has a normal high, similar to a moonlight low mode. The one on the right is so bright it lights up the room at night.
I performed a battery drain test for the past 12 hours, using two identical Shockli 26650 from the same set. The old D4S (left) lost less than .01 volts however the new D4S on the right lost a noticeable .07. It went from 4.17 to 4.10 volts in just 12 hours of High Aux only. Any thoughts on that? TIA
I suppose that I should exchange it with Hank at Intl-Outdoor. Just got it yesterday.
If you have a multimeter, I’d suggest measuring current draw during standby with the aux LEDs on high and on low. It should be about 0.03 mA on low, and about 0.90 mA on high… ish. But it sounds like your new light may be on order of magnitude higher, like 10 mA on high?
How bright is it on low?
Maybe there’s a solder bridge under the resistor, bypassing it and making the aux LEDs brighter. If that’s the case, you might be able to fix it just by touching a dry soldering iron to it a couple times to pull up extra solder.
It’s close enough. The difference may just be because I measured at around 3.7V to get an average. The drain is higher on a full battery and lower on an empty battery.
That’s actually cippi’s photo, originally posted here.
I’ve found some of my own photos on Neal’s feed too, like pretty much the entire set of photos at the beginning of this thread. If I understand correctly, what happens is someone copies the photos to forums in .cn, Neal finds them there, and he posts them to his feed. And this is why I’ve been considering adding a watermark of some sort on my images from now on, perhaps with the original URLs on them. They’ll still get copied, but at least it’ll point back toward the original source.
The LED comparison table in my D4 review mostly still applies. XP-L HI gets the most lumens and candelas, Nichia 219C gets the hottest, and efficiency is typically highest on XP-G2 for modes under ~2500 lm and highest on XP-L HI for modes over ~3000 lm.
Yow. 26.4 mA on high. That certainly sounds like the resistor got bridged or something, because that’s close to the maximum amount the attiny can supply. It’s 26 times higher than it should be.
You could just leave it on low though. Sounds like that’s a nice tritium-like level.
I remember reading on one of the Emisar threads what the variance was in the voltage readings but I cant remember what the range was. I bought 2 D4S from Mtn and the XPL-HI reads +.2v and the 219c reads -.1v. I believe that is in spec, but I was just wondering. Either way, im reflashing both and will tweak the fudge factor value to fix it.
I will say though that I was a bit hyped to get my 219c version, but its VERY noticeably green tinted. The XPL-HI 5D is absolutely perfect though.
Thanks TK…can I call you TK? I feel like we’ve been through a lot lol
I think that’s what I’ll do. Also, in some sick, demented, flashaholic way I don’t hate the wildly overdriven AUX LEDs. I just have to be aware not to leave them on. The torch doesn’t get hot but it’s still concerning for battery drain.
Thank you very much. And what is the scheme for setting the desired temperature? (if you need to change the temperature) One click is how many degrees?