Emisar is probably the closest thing to this right now. The D4S has programming pins and open source firmware.
There are already ways to program using the blinking light of a phone or pc screen. No cable involved! Maybe that can become more common.
TK is working on that Jason. 
Yes, but lfowner didn’t seem to be aware of it.
That’s correct. Link?
FW3A Thread #359
#363
Video Proof of Concept
It is a proof of concept.
It is slow and you can’t flash the µC while it is communicating. So it is more a thing to configure the lamp. A Russian flashlight manufacturer does it already. But the programming key is for flashing.
That is what I understood.
Thank you JasonWW for the pictures.
There was no cheat sheet in the package of the Sofirn Q8?
I don’t think so. Maybe someone else can say for sure.
When i got the Sofirn Q8, there are 2 sheets of instructions, same as the BLF Q8. The one with the diagram/table/sort of flowchart thingy and the one with heckloads of words and sentences and some tables. 
Not sure what is meant by cheat sheet though……
I thought it might be prudent to mention that Sofirn was kind enough to help me out getting another Q8, this one is slated to become something quite different than was originally intended. I will, of course, keep y’all informed as this little plan of mine begins to unravel.
Is it a THICC extended Q8?
The cheat sheet is small and thin and meant to be folded up and stored under the tail cap of the Q8.
How does yours manage to get such a high stock rating? Mine is only 4700 at stock using 30Q’s & 5030 with a bypass. Measured with the TA Lumen Tube
Djozz measured 4700 lumens too
He’s not using a TA Lumen Tube. He has a Manxbuggy Tube. It has no diffusers and is calibrated differently.
Aha! Now I know where to stick it.
No seriously, that one was also in the box, albeit a bit large to fit under the tail cap.
And Dale measures straight at switch-on because he finds the first blast the relevant number to record 
the short link to the cheat sheet download is:
choose this file
NarsilM CS v10 Q8 2017-11-23
Djozz has a video where it belongs
(sorry, we haven’t found a way to store the reading glases in the Q8)
I use flashlights in a work and security frame of mind. I’ll say it again, when an intruder is coming through a window at 3AM, the at-start lumens is the critical moment. He’s not going to wait around looking at the light expecting it to stabilize in 30 or 40 seconds. And hence, turn on lumens. I also build complete monsters with massive current draw, the cells fall extremely fast so a 30 second read has many of my lights quite depleted. Like measuring a direct drive XM-L2 light on a 10440 cell.
I do include a 30s reading a good deal of the time, for those that have come to expect it.
Take my Meteor M43 for example, it has 4 cells in parallel and I’m using Samsung 25S cells with 2500mAh capacity, so that’s 10,000mAh on tap, but I’m hitting them with a 58.8A draw for nearly a 6C discharge rate. The cells don’t hold up long.
People don’t like to accept my numbers. Most people don’t take the time to modify a light like I do, while it’s not hard it can be time consuming to attend to all the minute details. My lightbox has matched or been lower (seldom higher) hundreds of factory ANSI readings. LITERALLY over 500 lights! So I don’t doubt my light box. Can’t stress enough though, every one of our light boxes is for our comparison use to mod lights with, none of them are going to directly compare to each other. I get very nearly identical readings as robo819 who has the first P-Trap box manxbuggy1 and rdrfronty built. I get very nearly identical readings to Richard at MTNElectronics, his box was also built by these 2 brothers. Tom E’s as well. But all of us have different multipliers as the boxes were built at different times, but calibrated with similar lights. (25 or more with quality ANSI numbers, most expensive lights from top names)
If I knew where there was a big expensive sphere to check against I’d drive up to TA’s and do side by side readings on his box then go check on a factory sphere, but I don’t know of such a piece of equipment anywhere in this area. Would like to do it, be great if someone came up with a big company that was willing to help us out.
I’ve heard all this so much for the past 4 years or so that I’m about ready to just say “It’s bright!” and leave it at that…
Guess that’s what I’ll do with this Q8 I’m about to build. 12 Samsung LH351D in 80 CRI 5000k with 4 XP-L HI V3 3A in the center. A “44 Mag” Q8. Should be bright.