It using it’s own quad optic. Sadly it is smaller than carlco 10602 quad and bigger than a triple 10507 so nothing will fit perfect. The astrolux optic has 22mm diameter. The easiest way is to fit a triple because MSPCB is 20mm and the glass will hold it down or you need to reflow different leds to the factory MCPCB.
If you haven’t yet, you need to read up on the Narsil interface. It’s fairly intuitive, but there can still be questions like yours that are answered in the documentation. Unfortunately, I don’t have a direct link. But if you search around BLF, I’m sure you can find it yourself. (sorry)
Whenever you ramp up or down and release the button it will blink once to indicate it’s using the 7135. It will blink twice to indicate it’s using the FET.
There is a little glitch/feature where if you turn the light off during these blinks, the switch light will stay off until the next time you turn the light on again. This is not documented. It’s just something that was noticed.
You can also go into to the settings to turn the switch light off on a more permanent basis if you prefer.
Wondered if it was a glitch, the button feel in general is pretty w4nk. Hit it from an angle and nothing happens, hit it too lightly from dead on and nothing happens.
Btw, you can temporarily make the green light stay off just by turning the light off while it’s still blinking after ramping. There’s no need to be elaborate or go to minimum.
It does seem like your green led is not working. Try contacting where you bought it to see if they will do anything. Maybe they will send a replacement head.
Hmm, it sounds like the Green LED is not connected properly. They had to make a last minute change to the light to switch the green LED from the charge circuit to the driver so a lot of manual labor was involved. It is inevasible there would be human error on a few of them.
As was said I would contact banggood and see what they offer. If you know your way around a soldering iron it is possible you could fix it if you opened it up, most likely just a bad connection on a wire.
A friend has asked me for advice…he wants to buy a flashlight.
After analysis of requirements I decided that Emisar D4 would be a great choice, but a rechargeable D4 would be even better.
So S43 came to my mind….
I haven’t followed that light and know very little about it beside the fact that it has a TA-developed driver.
I did some reading, but not enough to really understand whether it’s a good pick….not that this is the most written-about light, but nevertheless the amount of discussion is large and I’d like to avoid going through all of it.
Would anyone mind answering a few simple questions?
If there are any problems known with the light?
What is the real output? I see some measurement of 3000 lm, OK. Others say 1xxx which I find pretty low for a light like that.
What is the overall quality compared to D4?
Is it reasonable to assume that this light will be reliable?
There are not any known issues that I’m aware of. The built in charging rate is a bit low at 0.5A. It means it takes longer to charge, but that may not be a big deal for most.
Whoever said 3000 lumen is crazy. You have 2 different emitters and 2 different models, S43 and S43S.
The S43 with the neutral white Nichia 219C emitters should be about 1600-1700 lumen.
The S43 with the cool white xpg3 emitters should be about 2100 lumen or thereabouts.
Then the S43S is an upgraded version that can draw higher amperage from a battery. This might bump it’s specs up maybe 200 lumen more.