Yow. 26.4 mA on high. That certainly sounds like the resistor got bridged or something, because that’s close to the maximum amount the attiny can supply. It’s 26 times higher than it should be.
You could just leave it on low though. Sounds like that’s a nice tritium-like level.
I remember reading on one of the Emisar threads what the variance was in the voltage readings but I cant remember what the range was. I bought 2 D4S from Mtn and the XPL-HI reads +.2v and the 219c reads -.1v. I believe that is in spec, but I was just wondering. Either way, im reflashing both and will tweak the fudge factor value to fix it.
I will say though that I was a bit hyped to get my 219c version, but its VERY noticeably green tinted. The XPL-HI 5D is absolutely perfect though.
Thanks TK…can I call you TK? I feel like we’ve been through a lot lol
I think that’s what I’ll do. Also, in some sick, demented, flashaholic way I don’t hate the wildly overdriven AUX LEDs. I just have to be aware not to leave them on. The torch doesn’t get hot but it’s still concerning for battery drain.
Thank you very much. And what is the scheme for setting the desired temperature? (if you need to change the temperature) One click is how many degrees?
Thank. Please specify.
These items (5.6) are required to perform or make “Click 10 times” (3) and perform “During the“ buzz ”, click 15-20 times.
“hence, click now to 30 (hence, click 15 times to get 45, or 20 times to get 50)”?
Thanks for the answer.
So you need to do it. Calibration
_2.Turn the light off.
3. Click 10 times.
4. The light should blink once, then flicker or “buzz”.
5.During the “buzz”, click 22 times to tell it the room is 22 C.
_
P.S. Please tell me where you can read about Runtime: in different modes - Turbo and other
[quote=ToyKeeper
Afterward, it should attempt to keep itself below 45-50 degrees C.[/quote]
ToyKeeper, DB Custom, nick779 !!!. Friends, thank you very much for your help. Now completed all the recommendations. How to check the temperature set by me?
This will greatly vary based on a number of parameters such as your ambient temps, specific battery being used, and emitters that you have, but some rough figures were provided by TK in the original post.
valera, we sometimes get caught up in the numbers as if it were an exact science. It’s really not. These parameters get us close and that’s about as good as it gets. You can measure the amperage your light is making at different levels and then use this information to estimate run time based on the capacity of the cells you are using, but again this an approximation and not an exact science as the diminishing cells will yield lower and lower current and the run time will gradually extend accordingly.
The D1 uses RampingIOS v2 which is a custom firmware.
On the other hand, the D4S uses RampingIOS v3 which is just Andúril with some minor changes requested by Hank.
If you compare the code or the manuals, you will see, that currently there is no way to get the current set max. temperature.
You can of course, update RampingIOS v3 or Anduril to do that. But you lose your current setting when flashing.
In RampingIOS V2, the limit was set by letting the light get hot. It could also display the value, to help the user see if they got the specific value they wanted. In practice, this would often take a few tries, and people had to guess until they got close enough.
In RampingIOS V3, the user can set the value directly, instead of using the sloppy “release when hot” method. So there is less need to display the value.