Does this say that?
Believe November is “from” 10/2018.
I will try to make it clear what I think it says.
From earlier to 9/2018 is old model.
From 10/2018 and later is new model.
I wonder if the new version will still have the same driver design with the side switch attached to the driver board. If this is the case again, modding potential (for a driver swap) is rather low.
It’s a boost driver. There are not many replacements to choose from. You want to swap to a 3v led?
Nah, I don't think so, just in case there's a more powerful boost driver to push the XHP50.2 harder than the stock version. It might also be difficult to disassemble the light with such a special design. I'm just thinking of the DQG Tiny 3rd 26650 with its extreme sensitive switch that could break if you start to unscrew the tube from its head.
There are much better 26650 hosts available. I’ve used the Supfire L5-S and X-17. They have really nice switches with two leds, 20mm mcpcb and 28mm drivers.
This Sofirn I plan to keep stock.
I dont think there has ever been an issue with the switch breaking from removing the battery tube. The few that happened was from people just pressing too hard. Mine is still fine. It’s a very small number of people that had this problem.
I like the old SP33 for its 3V led and nice current controlled driver, although with a ok but less than perfect user interface. It produces a very nice somewhat throwy beam (it has a sliced high CRI LH351D led now, at 3500K) and has good runtimes because of the chunky battery.
I have an SP33 inbound (for $20 why not amiright?) with the intention of creating a replacement 3v led driver for it (based on the TA circuit design) once it arrives!
@ djozz, obviously it’s not gonna be a thrower but just for completeness could you measure CD on the light you have the sliced lh351d in please sir?
I have not measured that yet, and it will indeed not be impressive, I will do the measurement this evening.
Lux-Perpetua was just saying the earlier model driver has the switch built in to it. Assuming the new model is the same (since they don’t appear to have altered the lights appearance) I would say modding potential is low.
.
They price is nice but they use SMO with 50.2 wonder what the beam will look like ?
It’s capable of looking real nice if properly focused. Same for the 70.2.
It’s the older versions, the xhp50 and 70, that will gave a definite donut shaped hot spot with an SMO.
We will just have to wait to see if they made it look nice.
Jason, is that switch pcb supported in the driver bay? Looks typical of the kind that has slots in the driver bay for the vertical pcb to fit into… makes it very robust and immune to those with deep press desires. 
Yes I got that, I’m saying I will be designing my own oshpark boards based on the 1+n+FET design to run anduril. I like this style driver project with the vertical daughter board, I did a driver for my Nitecore c6r with switches (and indeed conponents) mounted on the daughter as well as the main board. This particular design looks especially robust and I can’t wait to get into it!
That was your picture from post #1 of this thread.
My SP33 has had a resistor change on the driver, see What did you mod today? - #4800 by djozz , and after that mod I sliced and fine sanded the 4000K 90CRI Samsung LH351D. The output is about half what a low CRI XP-L would put out, and the throw with a XP-L Hi would even triple. All sacrifices for the nice tint.
Numbers on highest setting
Throw 24 kcd
Output 680 lumen
Current 3.5 A
CRI hotspot 92.6
CCT 3454K duv –0.0008
I just got the new SP33 which came with a 5500mah 26650 battery. I can’t find out much about the specs of this battery. Has anyone tested it? I am assuming its a rewrap of a standard battery but just wanted to find out a bit more.
Some wrappers list it as 5000mah and some as 5500mah. 5000 is the “correct” capacity. I think people have measured it in common chargers as being about 4700mah. I know Sofirn has said it doesn’t draw high amperage like a Liitokala blue or black, etc… It’s internal resistance is probably higher than average as well.
Can someone provide a link for the R100 resistors? I have looked for these in the past and had minimal luck. Mouser is one place I believe but to find them seems a little difficult.