[quote=ToyKeeper
Afterward, it should attempt to keep itself below 45-50 degrees C.[/quote]
ToyKeeper, DB Custom, nick779 !!!. Friends, thank you very much for your help. Now completed all the recommendations. How to check the temperature set by me?
This will greatly vary based on a number of parameters such as your ambient temps, specific battery being used, and emitters that you have, but some rough figures were provided by TK in the original post.
Not quite. If you don’t click at all, it will leave the value unchanged. The lowest value the user can set is 31 C, by clicking once.
All config menus “fall through” with no changes if you don’t press the button.
valera, we sometimes get caught up in the numbers as if it were an exact science. It’s really not. These parameters get us close and that’s about as good as it gets. You can measure the amperage your light is making at different levels and then use this information to estimate run time based on the capacity of the cells you are using, but again this an approximation and not an exact science as the diminishing cells will yield lower and lower current and the run time will gradually extend accordingly. 
Friends ! How to check the temperature of the installed temperature control.
I did everything according to the recommendations, and how to check it
To my knowledge you can’t read out the temperatur limit what you have set.
But you can read out the temperature of the lamp:
Lamp is OFF: 3 clicks = battery voltage, 2 clicks again = temperature.
Hint: The temperature is from inside the microcontroller. There is probably a little difference between outside when the lamp was on before.
Or you could leave it for a while and let it stabilize, then check and it should be quite close to the ambient…
At D1 can be determined. After 10 quick clicks the flashlight flashes the current temperature limit. Is there no such possibility on the D4S?
“**But you can read out the temperature of the lamp:
Lamp is OFF: 3 clicks = battery voltage, 2 clicks again = temperature.”
joechina Thank you very much
Made 3 clicks (from off) blinked 3 + 6 times. Carried out a test device-3,6v. The voltage is correct. But after 2 clicks 2 + 29. What is it?
The D1 uses RampingIOS v2 which is a custom firmware.
On the other hand, the D4S uses RampingIOS v3 which is just Andúril with some minor changes requested by Hank.
If you compare the code or the manuals, you will see, that currently there is no way to get the current set max. temperature.
You can of course, update RampingIOS v3 or Anduril to do that. But you lose your current setting when flashing.
No.
In RampingIOS V2, the limit was set by letting the light get hot. It could also display the value, to help the user see if they got the specific value they wanted. In practice, this would often take a few tries, and people had to guess until they got close enough.
In RampingIOS V3, the user can set the value directly, instead of using the sloppy “release when hot” method. So there is less need to display the value.
To blink out the temperature:
(Edit: I will leave it like this now, but the next time I’ll refresh the browser first… Promised! :sunglasses: )
Well, just finished an infuriating flash session with my D4S.
It absolutely REFUSED to flash with the 219c attached. Desoldered them as I was switching to XPL-HIs and it immediately flashed with 0 errors. Not sure if I got lucky the first time, but I repeatedly got transmit errors around the 1% and 60% mark. Im thinking its more hardware related as in with my laptop, and the low vF emitters or something. Really weird.
No, corrected from Toykeeper.
Lexcel wrote you must desolder the AuX-LEDS on the ROT66 to flash it. Maybe that is the same reason on the D4S?
Could the 219C have been reflowed in an incorrect orientation? A short there would have prevented the flash. Low Vf wouldn’t have done it, at least I’ve never had that be an issue in all the multitudes of one’s I’ve flashed…
The problem could be the power supply.
If you take a close look, the main LED flashes for a bit when data is transferred as both of the channels use the same pins as the data lines.
Since the layout connects the programmers power supply directly to battery plus, your programmer has to also power the LEDs.
If you have a programmer that cannot supply enough current, then there will be some kind of error.
Sadly, I cannot offer you a clear solution, but maybe try a USB 3.0 port as they may be able to provide enough current.
Have anyone found a pocket clip that fits on the D4S?
No, that’s not it. The D4S flashes just fine with aux LEDs installed. The ROT66/PL47 flash issue happens due to the way Lexel’s aux LED board regulates power, and that’s not relevant for Emisar’s designs. Incidentally, this is also why the D4S aux LEDs have a low mode, but the ROT66/PL47 do not.
Don’t see how they could fit
Guess I’ll use it for something else, deleted the post to not create confusion…
For the love of god, my dad clicked the button a bunch of times and made a complete mess of the programming.
I’ve got it mostly sorted out except I can’t figure out how to get smooth ramping back.
Can someone please spell out the sequence to change it from stepped ramping to smooth ramping?
Thanks!
Edit: Nevermind, found this great “manual”, worked perfect: RampingIOS V3 Manual | Phil! Gold
-Jamie M.