Friends ! How to check the temperature of the installed temperature control.
I did everything according to the recommendations, and how to check it
To my knowledge you can’t read out the temperatur limit what you have set.
But you can read out the temperature of the lamp:
Lamp is OFF: 3 clicks = battery voltage, 2 clicks again = temperature.
Hint: The temperature is from inside the microcontroller. There is probably a little difference between outside when the lamp was on before.
Or you could leave it for a while and let it stabilize, then check and it should be quite close to the ambient…
At D1 can be determined. After 10 quick clicks the flashlight flashes the current temperature limit. Is there no such possibility on the D4S?
“**But you can read out the temperature of the lamp:
Lamp is OFF: 3 clicks = battery voltage, 2 clicks again = temperature.”
joechina Thank you very much
Made 3 clicks (from off) blinked 3 + 6 times. Carried out a test device-3,6v. The voltage is correct. But after 2 clicks 2 + 29. What is it?
The D1 uses RampingIOS v2 which is a custom firmware.
On the other hand, the D4S uses RampingIOS v3 which is just Andúril with some minor changes requested by Hank.
If you compare the code or the manuals, you will see, that currently there is no way to get the current set max. temperature.
You can of course, update RampingIOS v3 or Anduril to do that. But you lose your current setting when flashing.
No.
In RampingIOS V2, the limit was set by letting the light get hot. It could also display the value, to help the user see if they got the specific value they wanted. In practice, this would often take a few tries, and people had to guess until they got close enough.
In RampingIOS V3, the user can set the value directly, instead of using the sloppy “release when hot” method. So there is less need to display the value.
To blink out the temperature:
- switch off the light
- Click 3 times for voltage
- Click another 2 times for temperature blink out.
(Edit: I will leave it like this now, but the next time I’ll refresh the browser first… Promised! :sunglasses: )
Well, just finished an infuriating flash session with my D4S.
It absolutely REFUSED to flash with the 219c attached. Desoldered them as I was switching to XPL-HIs and it immediately flashed with 0 errors. Not sure if I got lucky the first time, but I repeatedly got transmit errors around the 1% and 60% mark. Im thinking its more hardware related as in with my laptop, and the low vF emitters or something. Really weird.
No, corrected from Toykeeper.
Lexcel wrote you must desolder the AuX-LEDS on the ROT66 to flash it. Maybe that is the same reason on the D4S?
Could the 219C have been reflowed in an incorrect orientation? A short there would have prevented the flash. Low Vf wouldn’t have done it, at least I’ve never had that be an issue in all the multitudes of one’s I’ve flashed…
The problem could be the power supply.
If you take a close look, the main LED flashes for a bit when data is transferred as both of the channels use the same pins as the data lines.
Since the layout connects the programmers power supply directly to battery plus, your programmer has to also power the LEDs.
If you have a programmer that cannot supply enough current, then there will be some kind of error.
Sadly, I cannot offer you a clear solution, but maybe try a USB 3.0 port as they may be able to provide enough current.
Have anyone found a pocket clip that fits on the D4S?
No, that’s not it. The D4S flashes just fine with aux LEDs installed. The ROT66/PL47 flash issue happens due to the way Lexel’s aux LED board regulates power, and that’s not relevant for Emisar’s designs. Incidentally, this is also why the D4S aux LEDs have a low mode, but the ROT66/PL47 do not.
Don’t see how they could fit
Guess I’ll use it for something else, deleted the post to not create confusion…
For the love of god, my dad clicked the button a bunch of times and made a complete mess of the programming.
I’ve got it mostly sorted out except I can’t figure out how to get smooth ramping back.
Can someone please spell out the sequence to change it from stepped ramping to smooth ramping?
Thanks!
Edit: Nevermind, found this great “manual”, worked perfect: RampingIOS V3 Manual | Phil! Gold
-Jamie M.
The factory noctigon was 219cs, I was going to try to flash it before swapping to the xpl-hi noctigon from my bricked d4s. I’m assuming it was the port but it gave me quite a fight until I desoldered the main and aux emitter boards.
I’ll retest when I have time with the xpl-his with the new flashing adapters I made. The male dupont adapters are a really nice fit in the flashing vias after being crimped and filed down a hair.
I need to double check my USB ports, but I think they’re standard 3.0 but the other ports are the high speed charge 3.0 which I’ll try next. Hopefully its not the laptop. It’s a brand new dell precision workstation.
While on, click 3 times.
What about the clip used in this 26650 light? Can we find the supplier?
https://www.fasttech.com/product/5707401-btu-pk26-led-flashlight
Comparing the Emisar D4S and the BLF Q8 in Alaska:
Let me apologize for two things before I start:
- Someone might have already posted a comparison of these two lights in this thread. I have not had the time to go through the previous 44 pages.
- I don’t have photos to show what I will try to describe.
Here in Alaska the nights are getting very long and cold, making this a great time to get outside and try out my new Emisar D4S in vast dark wilderness beyond the edge of town.
The few nights ago I had taken out my D4S (XP-L HI V2 3A @5000K), comparing it with my other Emisar lights: the D4, D1 and D1S. My takeaway from those trials is that I can put away my D4 and D1 as the D4S has the brightness of the D4 and throw of the D1. The D1S throws a longer distance. I’ll keep that one around.
But it occurred to me the D4S seemed similar to the BLF Q8 in terms of light output (lumens, flood and throw). How similar?
Last night I took my D4S and BLF Q8 (XP-L HD V6 3D @4750K) to my favorite remote testing spot, the base of a shear rock cliff that is about 300 meters long and 100 meters tall. I stood at one end of the base of this cliff, comparing throw, flood, brightness and tint knowing I would not be disturbing any humans, the nearest living miles away. (I once bothered a curious moose and another time a massive Great Horned owl. Sorry fellas.)
The beams of the two lights are indeed very similar. Both provide a useful combination of a broad hot spot giving plenty of throw plus abundant spill/flood. In fact, that much flooding light (at turbo levels) reflecting on white crystalline snow can be too dazzling. Both lights throw a beam the full 300m length of the cliff with almost the same apparent brilliance. The Q8 is a teeny-tiny bit brighter than the D4S but it’s just about a tie. Batteries: Q8: 4-18650 Sony VTC6; D4S: 1-26650 Orbtronic 5750mah high drain. Freshly charged.
The tint of the Q8 (4750K) is a bit warmer than the D4S (5000K). Both look nice.
The biggest differences between the two lights are:
- Physical size and weight
- How they handle their generated heat and
- Batteries
Size and weight: The D4S is pocketable in my denim jeans. At 242g with battery, and only 4.1” short, it is almost an EDC – though it is not a shirt pocket carry. The Q8 needs a much bigger pocket – like the one in my overcoat. The Q8 is also too heavy (608g with batteries) to leave in my overcoat pocket. My car’s glovebox is a good place for it.
Heat handling: The D4S gets warm fairly quickly – though not as quickly nor as hot as the scorching D4. Quick heat renders the D4 less than practical. Not so the D4S: It can run at around 800 lumens without overheating (remember: I live in cold Alaska. You may need to ramp the D4S a bit lower to keep it cool). The Q8, with its greater mass, is a champ at heat dissipation. It takes a long time to get warm; it never gets hot.
Batteries: The four 18650 batteries in the Q8 will outlast the single 26650 in the D4S. But the D4S/26650 lasts a long time (compared to lights with a single 18650).
And the winner is……? Which light will I use the most? Which will I reach for first? Which will stay closest to me?
In terms of short to mid-duration light output (bright bursts up to a few minutes), both lights are equally capable. They are excellent flood AND throw lights.
So, for me, it comes down to carrying convenience. And here the D4S has the clear advantage. It is smaller and much lighter than the Q8. It goes where I go more easily. It also fits in my hand perfectly.
I predict Emisar will sell a lot of these.
Other thoughts on the D4S: The auxiliary emitters are nice (mine are cyan). I keep them on their low setting although the high setting creates a nice Blue Moon mode. I also purchased the magnetic cap. It is a strong magnet. It holds the light at any angle. It is fond of my key ring.