No size for UCL, unfortunately.
I have sent them an email asking if they might be able to cut it down to size. hopefully, they can
I got a reply and they have 60mm UCL acrylic lens for sale. Now the J12 uses 59mm lens though.
Photos of the driver
can you measure the diameter of the driver please?
and height?
thanks for posting - I've been waiting for someone to do that.
This might fit - and if the specs are accurate, and the switch can handle the current, it would make the trj12 the brightest light under $100?
http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S020167
wish it had more levels
just manage to take out again for rough measurement. bottom pcb is about 28mm, I only measure the head's bottom thread, the second PCB height is about 25mm. take note the above is not exact as I didn't take out the entire pcb assembly.
I just popped mine apart before finding this thread. Is anyone else bothered by how small of a gauge the wires are that come from the driver and feed the LED array?
I saw someone gained access to the LED array on another website (forgot which and don't have link), which revealed some very ugly soldering work but they didn't post how the were able to. Does anyone else know?
edit: The threads on mine are fairly cruddy - you must be careful not to cross-thread when you are putting the tailcap on.
thanks! my KD 9xml driver measures 28.45mm high. The second pcb, which is horizontal, is 24.9 and the main 26mm. The coil is slightly wider than the second pcb, so even though there's room on the side opposite from the coil, the driver (except bottom board) cannot be placed in a cylinder with an inner diameter that matches the outer diameter of the second pcb.
so...if the bottom pcb of the KD driver isn't wide enough (which I doubt) that's an easy fix.
the kd driver might be too tall - but I doubt it, since I think your measurement is from the top of the horizontal pcb to the top of the vertical one.
the kd bottom pcb is 1.6mm thick.
Aloha and welcome to BLF bitcore!
Thanks, I sort-of dove straight into flashaholism with the TR-J12, three 4sevens 26650's, an imax B6AC hobby charger, a lipo sack, and some hacked apart radio shack D cell battery holders that are waiting on me to glue to a board of some sort so I can make a balance charger cradle for the 26650's.
I may have a bit of an issue with the 4-sevens batteries though, their nipples are not quite large enough for them to stack effectively. The green plastic jacketing is thick around the top and bottom, restricting the cell to cell contact. The last thing I want is to create a hotspot on a battery due to a high current + weak connection that develops into something more dangerous. I've seen pictures of what happens when these lithium ion batteries pop, and that's the LAST thing I want to happen.
Glad to have you here, bitcore!
gottagreetallthenewbiesRC
Using IMRs, i noticed that the J12 dims when voltage gets low instead of flickering/going down a mode when I use protected 18650s.
Anyone else notice that?
It's ment to dim, not sure about the flickering could be the pcbs on the batteries.
Hey 2100 can you buy these and test them against the TR-J12 please.
5 x T6
MarsFire 080 Cree T6 4000-Lumen 5-Mode 5-LED Flashlight - Black (3*26650)
6 x T6
MarsFire 088 Cree T6 4500-Lumen 5-Mode 6-LED Flashlight - Black (3*26650)
7 x T6
MarsFire B Cree T6 5000-Lumen 5-Mode 7-LED Flashlight - Black (3*26650/2*26650)
Another contender 5 x T6 $69.99 shipped
I'm running mine with 4 NiMH cells and it's visually brighter than 3 TF 18650s or 2 26650s (Lighthound, 3.5aH). Verified with my meter just to make sure my eye's weren't deceiving me, and sho nuf brighter. Tried it with 4 cheapo 10 year old C Energizer 2.2aH rechargeables just to see how it would preform. Bright and steady for ~30-35mins with the cheapos. Then got some quality Cs, 4 LSD Accu 4.5aH cells and I'm not going back to Li for this light!
Special thanks to 2100 for the voltage graph that convinced me to go with NiMHs. I have many lights, but this is my new fav all purpose now. Brighter than my factory X6, second only to my Torch. Best bang for the buck right now IMO.
To 2100 "You will not be able to use this for more than 30 seconds in a tropical country unless you want to risk the driver electronics. You could use medium, but then it'd be let down by the PWM. It could survive if it is a 900g light like the XTAR S1.
" Thanks for all the infos 2100 ! But are you saying that TJ12 should not stay on high mode over 30sec in tropical places? Still suggest this as a budget light ? Since I been looking for this light for the OTF and price and I live in a tropical country Thanks!
I live in Australia a warm hot dry country during summer and the TR-J12 can be use flat out on high till the batteries give up ! Just like the TR-3T6. But I would search for the TR-J16 and TR-J18 on this forum the same brand around the same price with more LEDs or the same amount of LEDs for cheaper.
Thanks Benckie,
I seen your post of TR-J16 as well…and still I am thinking