[Oshpark] HQ 15mm/17mm programmable boost driver with ATtiny13A

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HarleyQuin
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The HQB15 v2 is still up and running in the SK68. First results after some days of heavy use

- the driver does not press-fit well, I had to back it up with wire or output was not stable
- a notch really helps to pry out a press-fit driver…
- re-prgramming while installed did work, just take care that the LED-wires are soldered away from the MCU
- the modes {1,8,255} are far too close together (at least with 1AA), I’ll look into lowering moon next

But, well, in the end this is my first 1AA with own programm.

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SK68 pill with HQB15 v2 (0.8mm board), original SK68 driver in the background:

.

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The built driver so far: one HQB15 v2 (0.8mm), two HQB15 v1 (1.6mm).

Oshpark Boards:
HQ ProgKey: Universal Driver Programming Key . Boost: HQ 15mm/17mm programmable boost driver with ATtiny13A
46mm Triple-Channel: BLF SRK FET v3 . 17mm Linear: HQ10D / HQ4D / HQ4S . Contact Boards: 22/24/26mm

MRsDNF
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Well done HQ. Its good to see this up and running in a light.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

HarleyQuin
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Little status update

I successfully built one HQB15 v3 and one HQB17B v1, which both are running fine in lights. Still with simple firmware, I tweaked the MiniDrv firmware with several mode groups which took me a lot of time.

To be honest I at least postponed the idea for LVP. None of my AA light has it and I can live with a dead or degraded eneloop once in a while. I just won’t find the time to dig deeper here. I will finish the planned 17mm LVP boards (C/D) so if anyone else wants to progress LVP he has something to go on. Just ask if you need a certain layout.

I started working on HQB15M and this one looks really promising in Eagle so far. Made me chuckle more than once. I redesigned my Attiny MMU breakout board and that took me a while, but now it all might get into shape.

Using the Attiny13a-MMU would even allow for sub-15mm variants. Just sayin’ Wink

Oshpark Boards:
HQ ProgKey: Universal Driver Programming Key . Boost: HQ 15mm/17mm programmable boost driver with ATtiny13A
46mm Triple-Channel: BLF SRK FET v3 . 17mm Linear: HQ10D / HQ4D / HQ4S . Contact Boards: 22/24/26mm

mattlward
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How far sub 15mm? I am still interested in trying these boards. What would be the best rev to go with at this point?

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

HarleyQuin
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14mm was easily sketched
13mm already looks doable.
Less will be tight.

Mind it’s the 3×3mm MMU package. Wink

Oshpark Boards:
HQ ProgKey: Universal Driver Programming Key . Boost: HQ 15mm/17mm programmable boost driver with ATtiny13A
46mm Triple-Channel: BLF SRK FET v3 . 17mm Linear: HQ10D / HQ4D / HQ4S . Contact Boards: 22/24/26mm

Rufusbduck
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All the smaller AAA boost drivers I’ve seen with modes use stacked boards to fit an mcu. Somehow they look bigger on your table than mine. Wink

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

djozz
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With 12mm you serve quite a lot of AAA lights Smile

I’m hoping at some point these boards will be sold ready to go, Mtn Electronics is the obvious seller, but a source in Europe or Asia is easier for us overseas.

Rufusbduck
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To that effect it seems GB’s with custom drivers can make that happen. The drivers end up sold separately afterwards.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

HarleyQuin
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This project still alive? By all means!
But all of you following this thread are now accustomed to the length of my production cycles…

Nevertheless, there is hope for some professional solution:

RMM seems to be still working on a boost driver, as he did let slip in his thread:

RMM wrote:

It seems like the Nanjg 110 is getting harder to find.  I’m working on what I hope to be a decent upgrade from that driver, with the option (but not necessary) for modes and synchronous rectification for more efficiency.  Will it work?  Who knows…it is all a process.  wink

Perhaps if we start nagging Innocent

Oshpark Boards:
HQ ProgKey: Universal Driver Programming Key . Boost: HQ 15mm/17mm programmable boost driver with ATtiny13A
46mm Triple-Channel: BLF SRK FET v3 . 17mm Linear: HQ10D / HQ4D / HQ4S . Contact Boards: 22/24/26mm

djozz
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Hmm, I really hope that Richard get his boost driver succesfully running and for sale…

Today I hoped to mod a BLF X5 (the OL-engraved one) with a boost driver to get it working on Eneloops (I’m sure that Old Lumens will approve that, he used to be not keen at all on using li-ion cells), so I tried an LD30 that I had. Unfortunately, the three modes on the XP-L Hi led are as badly spaced as can be: 1lm, 120lm, 135lm, can’t live with that Sad

On the bright side: to my surprise the X5 with the XP-L Hi at the very modest 135 lumen is a very nice and useful flashlight, it is not as impressive as the 1300lm of the stock X5, but its good throw makes it still a powerful flashlight.

MRsDNF
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Where did the LD30 come from. I’ve never had one outputting like that and would prefer not to.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

djozz
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MRsDNF wrote:
Where did the LD30 come from. I’ve never had one outputting like that and would prefer not to.

Not sure, I have had it for a while, the little plastic bag it was in suggests banggood, but is is not listed there (anymore?). It is one with a long narrow battery spring.
HarleyQuin
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1-120-135 is a very strange mode spacing. Does is occur with 1xAA and 2xAA? Maybe it’s optimized for 2xAA and with 1xAA it can’t boost high mode enough.

Ah, the X5. I’m eyeballing it (the black astrolux s3 host to be precise) for some time now but couldn’t convince myself to spend the 20$, yet. But it’s still on my list…

Oshpark Boards:
HQ ProgKey: Universal Driver Programming Key . Boost: HQ 15mm/17mm programmable boost driver with ATtiny13A
46mm Triple-Channel: BLF SRK FET v3 . 17mm Linear: HQ10D / HQ4D / HQ4S . Contact Boards: 22/24/26mm

djozz
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The X5/S3 has a very effective reflector for a single NiMh flashlight, it is a small enough size but the finning is bit overdone for the mere ~1W of power that is produced. Ideal would be a slightly leaner host the size of the ancient Romisen RC-G2 (which has a slightly smaller reflector that unfortunately is quite heavy OP).

Rufusbduck
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Just about perfect for a Micromag on a single nimh.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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I put together one of the 15mm V3 boards today. It’s currently running in a SK68 with a $1.68 XPG3 from Arrow Electronics. I’m very happy with the light considering the minimal cost. I went with the standard thickness boards(1.6mm?) and didn’t have much trouble getting the driver to press fit. Thanks for all the hard work HQ.

Seems to run fine on a 14500 as well.

HarleyQuin
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Hi Bourbon Guy,

thanks for the feedback, I’m happy and proud to hear you got it working. I was extremely busy the last weeks, so I couldn’t respond earlier. But I’m really curious about the following:

Where did you source the PAM2803?
How many capacitors did you use, which ones (µF) and where?
Which firmware did you use? Anything to share, perhaps?
How did the soldering work out, any places with too little space?

Cheers
HQ

Oshpark Boards:
HQ ProgKey: Universal Driver Programming Key . Boost: HQ 15mm/17mm programmable boost driver with ATtiny13A
46mm Triple-Channel: BLF SRK FET v3 . 17mm Linear: HQ10D / HQ4D / HQ4S . Contact Boards: 22/24/26mm

djozz
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I’m glad that this project is still alive!

It would be especially awesome if it ends in a ~5 dollar china-produced finished 15mm driver with pretty configurable software, similar to the BLF-A6. That will make it available to a much larger public. But I must admit I see no easy route to get it that far.

Perhaps Banggood is interested if this driver as part of a to-be-designed BLF-AA flashlight. If this project is taking place sometime, I vote for a compact zoomie.

HarleyQuin
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djozz wrote:
It would be especially awesome if it ends in a ~5 dollar china-produced finished 15mm driver with pretty configurable software, similar to the BLF-A6. That will make it available to a much larger public. But I must admit I see no easy route to get it that far.
I’d buy them Wink
But the 15mm version is so tight that I doubt it can be reliably produced in numbers. I still consider an MMU version an option, but that can not be re-programmed.

I finally did the schematic of these drivers.

Oshpark Boards:
HQ ProgKey: Universal Driver Programming Key . Boost: HQ 15mm/17mm programmable boost driver with ATtiny13A
46mm Triple-Channel: BLF SRK FET v3 . 17mm Linear: HQ10D / HQ4D / HQ4S . Contact Boards: 22/24/26mm

Bourbon Guy
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Sorry to disappoint you HJ, but I didn’t add anything to your work. Apart from the BAT60 and an additional 10µF cap all the components were swapped from the fasttech driver. I just used minidrv with 2 modes.

I actually assembled a second one as well, and felt the component spacing was very good. Not really any harder to assemble than some of the fet+1 drivers.

fixed it
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Question for the driver ninjas around here: does a guy with average skill have any chance of building the 15mm driver with a soldering iron or stovetop reflow? I can do lots of cursing if it helps Big Smile

If not, what about the 17mm ? I’ve been thinking about a 4/3AF NiMH light for a while to leave in the car.

mattlward
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You could, with a hot air gun! I build 1 and 2 sided drivers that way.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

HarleyQuin
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Bourbon Guy wrote:
Sorry to disappoint you HJ, but I didn’t add anything to your work. Apart from the BAT60 and an additional 10µF cap all the components were swapped from the fasttech driver. I just used minidrv with 2 modes.

I actually assembled a second one as well, and felt the component spacing was very good. Not really any harder to assemble than some of the fet+1 drivers.

Nah, I’m not disappointed, I’m truly glad it worked out. Party

Oshpark Boards:
HQ ProgKey: Universal Driver Programming Key . Boost: HQ 15mm/17mm programmable boost driver with ATtiny13A
46mm Triple-Channel: BLF SRK FET v3 . 17mm Linear: HQ10D / HQ4D / HQ4S . Contact Boards: 22/24/26mm

HarleyQuin
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fixed it wrote:
Question for the driver ninjas around here: does a guy with average skill have any chance of building the 15mm driver with a soldering iron or stovetop reflow? I can do lots of cursing if it helps Big Smile

If not, what about the 17mm ? I’ve been thinking about a 4/3AF NiMH light for a while to leave in the car.

Soldering iron, I’d not dare on these.
Most parts of these boards are not stock eagle parts. I made almost all of them smaller, so they still work for a reworking station, but you have not much space for an iron. The MCU will already be difficult. The PAM2803 is so tightly surrounded that you will probably bridge where you don’t want to even with a 0.8mm tip. The pads of the inductor are hardly protruding at all, just so much that you can see if the solder melted.

Stove should work pretty well.
I haven’t done it with a driver board, but I reflow emitters on a regular basis with a stove, a very small teflon pan, a sliiiight oil film, this solder paste and pliers. As these boost driver boards are single sided, that should work pretty well. Just be gentle with the heat, don’t use the stovetop directly without a pan, and try the solder paste on empty boards first to get a feeling how much heat you need before you fry some precious parts.

But if you got 40some bucks to spare, a Youyue 858d+ is really worth it and can be used for easy desoldering and building double sided drivers as well.

Oshpark Boards:
HQ ProgKey: Universal Driver Programming Key . Boost: HQ 15mm/17mm programmable boost driver with ATtiny13A
46mm Triple-Channel: BLF SRK FET v3 . 17mm Linear: HQ10D / HQ4D / HQ4S . Contact Boards: 22/24/26mm

fixed it
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HarleyQuin wrote:
Stove should work pretty well.
I haven’t done it with a driver board, but I reflow emitters on a regular basis with a stove, a very small teflon pan, a sliiiight oil film, this solder paste and pliers.
What’s the purpose of the oil film? Heat transfer? I’ve done one triple in an old teflon pan so far and it went fairly well so I’ll probably try that first. I really don’t need one more tool to put away. At least not until I can make more space.
HarleyQuin
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On second thought I would not use oil with the driver boards. It might get sucked up through the vias and could mess with the solder paste.

But for LEDs on MCPCBs, yes, it helps heat transfer. So even with an electrical plate I found it easier to regulate the heat to come at least close to the intended thermal profile for reflow soldering.

Oshpark Boards:
HQ ProgKey: Universal Driver Programming Key . Boost: HQ 15mm/17mm programmable boost driver with ATtiny13A
46mm Triple-Channel: BLF SRK FET v3 . 17mm Linear: HQ10D / HQ4D / HQ4S . Contact Boards: 22/24/26mm

HarleyQuin
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HQB17C v1

The arrival of the Convoy T2 revived my interest and I shared 2 new drivers, the HQB17C and the HQB17D, that are made specifically with the T2 in mind. Both are 17mm boost drivers.

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This is the ‘classic’ version, with SOT23 mosfet and up to 4.3mm inductor. There’s enough space for a SOIC clamp to program the Attiny.

There a some design changes to prior versions.

The driver features vias for a programming key, to allow true ISP.
I added a gate resistor (R4) between Pin6 and gate, can’t hurt to have one.
All 3 resistors went onto the spring side, that allowed to make the connection between PAM pin5 and LED+ without vias. That way the complete boost circuit is on one side of the board. The BAT+ pad is still 8mm, that’s ample space.

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Oshpark Link

.

Parts
(more on parts and values see partlist overview in post#2)

U1: PAM2803, SOT-23-6
L1: max 4.3×4.3mm
D1: SOD323
C1: 0805
C2: 0805
C3: 0805
R1: 0805
R2: 0603
R3: 0603
R3: 0603
MCU: ATTiny13A-SSU, 8S1
OTC: 0603 (optional)
FET: N-Channel, SOT-23-3

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PCB

The brd-pictures do not show the ground plane on both sides of the PCB, the Oshpark pictures do.

.

.

Oshpark Boards:
HQ ProgKey: Universal Driver Programming Key . Boost: HQ 15mm/17mm programmable boost driver with ATtiny13A
46mm Triple-Channel: BLF SRK FET v3 . 17mm Linear: HQ10D / HQ4D / HQ4S . Contact Boards: 22/24/26mm

HarleyQuin
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HQB17D v1

The arrival of the Convoy T2 revived my interest and I shared 2 new drivers, the HQB17C and the HQB17D, that are made specifically with the T2 in mind. Both are 17mm boost drivers.

.

This is the ‘deluxe’ version with all the bells and whistles: LFPAK33 mosfet and up to 5.6mm inductor. Together with the BAT60A this should make a very efficient driver. Here, of course, a programming key is imperative.

There a some design changes to prior versions.

The driver features vias for a programming key, to allow true ISP.
I added a gate resistor (R4) between Pin6 and gate, can’t hurt to have one.
All 3 resistors went onto the spring side, that allowed to make the connection between PAM pin5 and LED+ without vias. That way the complete boost circuit is on one side of the board. The BAT+ pad is still 8mm, that’s ample space.

As mosfet I will use the NXP PSMN2R4-30MLD, that has an Rdson of ~3.2mOhm, in contrast to the ~27mOhm of the (already good) IRLML.
The inductor footprint is custom made with two inductors in mind: The Coilcraft XFL5030 and the Wurth 744316220. Both will fit and have an Rdc of ~11mOhm, in contrast to ~30-50mOhm of usual 4×4mm inductors.
Still on board is of course the BAT60A, that has an exceptionally low Vf and a very small footprint.

.

Oshpark Link

.

Parts
(more on parts and values see partlist overview in post#2)

U1: PAM2803, SOT-23-6
L1: max 5.6×5.6mm
D1: SOD323
C1: 0805
C2: 0805
C3: 0805
R1: 0805
R2: 0603
R3: 0603
R3: 0603
MCU: ATTiny13A-SSU, 8S1
OTC: 0603 (optional)
FET: N-Channel, LFPAK33

.

PCB

The brd-pictures do not show the ground plane on both sides of the PCB, the Oshpark pictures do.

.

.

Oshpark Boards:
HQ ProgKey: Universal Driver Programming Key . Boost: HQ 15mm/17mm programmable boost driver with ATtiny13A
46mm Triple-Channel: BLF SRK FET v3 . 17mm Linear: HQ10D / HQ4D / HQ4S . Contact Boards: 22/24/26mm

Lexel
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if you really go full programming key best would be QFN 20 footprint for MCU,
gives you quite a lot space on the driver
and Attiny 25V and 85 possible for more sophisticated firmwares

for example bigger reverse diode and XAL60 or XAL70 inductor (6 or 7mm)
OTSM parts R1/R2 and C2
e-switch driver pads

kikkoman
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The QFN20 package looks like a good idea at first, but it heavily depends on the board. You can’t route under it, so it’s either around the package or via vias (not always possible) and you may end up with no real space saved vs. the SOIC.
It’s not really an adequate package either, 12 pins are unused (and Atmel / µC advise against connecting them, so even using them for a convenient ground pin may or may not cause issues Facepalm )

The one package that would really save space in the lineup is the 8-pin TSSOP. 0.65mm pitch, a bit over half the size of the SOIC. Unfortunately, only the 45 and 45V are available in that format.

I just saw the 13 also comes in a 10-pin QFN package now. Might make sense in small drivers.

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