What did you mod today?

Yeah, loan it to someone and tell them if it ever turns orange when using it then…. DANGER! :smiley:

… and when this imagined guy finally learned its only the paint he gets one of Dale’s overdriven lights with real red heat …

Well, I'll be carrying this light around with me for the next six month's just waiting for the opportunity O:)

:+1:

That’s a super cool idea CRX :open_mouth: :+1: :+1:

CRX creativity is just amazing…

Where did you find black pigments that turn to some color after heating ? All the pigments I found are turning white-ish after heating

Maybe it’s a black pigment that turns clear, and he painted it over top of red?

Its not the pigment that changes the color to red/orange after heating, its the orange GITD tape, that becomes visible when the pigment is turning white.

CRX, you are a wizard!!

Ok, I think I get it :
GITD orange tape is under the paint. When it turns from black to clear, the orange glow is visible through it.
But that means that most of the time, you’ll not see orange but just white.
Anyway this is cool !

That is so freakin awesome CRX!

Black is standby colour which turns clear with heat to then reveal the orange glow tape underneath, but since it is orange glow tape, it turns yellow/ green when exposed to light too, then fades back to orange or covered back in black if the light cools down :wink:

How about doing it with red trits instead of tape?

Yeah thought about it but seems a bit of a waste of tritium as will only be revealed when the light is hot, I use trits for finding the thing to turn on in the first place :smiley:

I just wanted a part of the light to turn red/ orange when it heated up and the PK Paladin seemed like a good candidate with the grooves near the front and a triple XP-G2 /FET driver setup.
Just a bit of experimenting.

Working on the big mod, what I’m calling the Q8 .441 MAG. :slight_smile:

Got the driver built yesterday, tested it this morning and had to do some tweaking on a couple of the slave’s 7135 channel but now it works fine, have Anduril on the original driver from the Q8 with the MOSFET and 7135 chips changed to match my slave boards. 4 Slave boards to run 4 quads with Samsung emitters, original driver running a de-domed SST-40 in the center with a 22mm reflector over it. Hence, 4 Quads and 1 reflector (441) at Magnum power (or Most Audacious Guffaw as a stab at “Giggles”) Also having a bit of fun with the naming as taken from the .454 Casull, using the 3 digit clarification just to kinda show it’s a serious monster. lol

I’ll run one each 14 ga wire up to share with 2 Quad boards, have 4 teflon covered 18 ga leads from the slaves to run these quads. Then 2 22ga leads from the original driver to the SST-40. All running the same MCU with Anduril. Looking for 20,000 to 25,000 lumens but don’t know if the 4 cells can deliver it. Will be trying the new carriers from Sofirn to see if 8 cells or even 12 cells will be able to deliver the amperage. :wink:

Waiting on the Noctigon D4S quads and Angie optics, supposed to be here by Tuesday… Center pad is inset with a 25mm MaxToch MCPCB and the wire holes are drilled, need to place the 4 quad boards to see where to drill the holes. Also have a 95mm UCLp lens due here Saturday. :smiley:

I should probably get on the IMR site and order up a batch of cells to go with it. lol So, Anyone have any ideas about what cell can run 22A each in a 4P configuration? Yeah, gonna need about 86 Amps…

Looks mean :smiling_imp:

Samsung 20S would be your best bet. Absolute monster.

For a 4P setup, you need to go all out.

Since you are very skilled, put dual BeCu springs in the Q8 and bypass that array for absolute maximum conductivity :slight_smile:

You want as low of a resistance as possible, and a bypassed dual BeCu spring array will do the job :smiley:

Are the 20S better than the 25S?

Already have the large springs on the board with 22 ga (20ga? forget) bypasses. :wink:

Edit: Forgot what I’d done on the bottom end, I simply pulled the tube and tail assembly from my XP-L2 build and put the large spring with bypass on the XP-L2 build. So the new one will have dual springs on a copper plate. :wink:

Yes, it is the best 18650 cell in terms of power output:
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/threads/bench-test-results-samsung-20s-18650-hardest-hitting-18650-right-now-beats-hb6-and-vtc6a.864225/

The Samsung 25S actually bests the Sony VTC5A by a wee bit, and at 2500mAh it would have quite the leg up on a 20S. 4 in parallel would mean the 20S would need a whole 5th cell to keep up.

Edit: According the HKJ, the Samsung 25S at 25 and 30 Amps really hammers the Sony VTC5A, which I thought was the best cell out there in the 18650 class. Appears I was wrong. So, I will need to get some Samsung 25S ordered. (more of them I should say.)