Some thoughts about the E07’s proposed 7x CREE XPL HI V3 NW 5000K emitters:
My Fireflies ROT 66 has 9x of those same emitters. The ROT 66 is hyper-bright, floody, has some throw, but not much. The E07 would likely be similar. The ROT 66 has three 18650 batteries (9-10,000Mah total), this will have one 21700 (4-5,000Mah). Anticipate shorter run time between battery charges. The E07’s small size and mass means it will probably heat up and step down quickly. The E07’s small size will be nice - even with a 21700 it will still be an EDC for most of us.
Among it’s competitors is going to be the Emisar D4S. The D4S has a 26650 battery (5-6,000Mah) and four emitters. My D4S has CREE XPL HI V2 NW 5000K. The EO7 should be brighter - though the D4S is extremely bright. The E07 will be not as stocky as the D4S; some find the D4S to be an EDC, others don’t. The E07 run times will be shorter than the D4S. The E07 will likely heat up quicker. The E07 probably won’t the throw distance of the D4S.
I like the proposed emitter choices of the E07 and the availability of the Champagne color.
SKV89, Richard (RMM) built an TR-J20 with XHP-50.2’s I believe, also added a slave driver. It made 39,000 lumens and got too hot to hold within seconds. I made a heat sink to tie in the excellent finnage and he said it would then run til the cells died, it got hot, yes, but was dispersing it faster than than the cells could hold up. I had also made him an extension that was finned to match, for a 4th cell in that big light. 4 32650’s in series.
My own is still running 3 32650’s and has 4 of the 9V MTG2 emitters. It’s making a lot less than Richards, but a lot more than 10,000 lumens. Same heat sink. (made the same of course) I also added a 1/4” thick spacer up top to accommodate the reflectors.
Edit: Rested and at 4V it makes 11,612 lumens. Edit II: 12,976 with the cells fresh charged and at start. Mind you, the cells and emitters are going on 3 years old.
Very good news but I hope this will not end up with a head much larger than the front SS bezel. It’s the only thing that I don’t like with the ROT66 : protruding fins, even if i prefer this to no fins at all.
Omg I’m in this thing is getting better all the time.
TallyHo I have four ROT66 myself. I think those fins are small all things considered. They barely stick out if you stare down at it from the muzzle, er bezel end.
Yeah I agree the Cooling Fins help tremendously with heat management so the bigger the better IMO. Some awesome fins in this thread. This one needs some character to set it apart from a ROT66, which I already admire.
I’m wondering about the “deeper fins”… I’ve been studying the design and I’m really liking how the switch area is raised above the head, the head has a slight bevel cut to it such that as it gets closer to the tube it’s narrower but the switch area stays proud, makes it easy to locate the switch in the dark if you have the switch lights turned off. (I don’t normally leave this lights on, too many lights to have all of them shining around saying “Pick me! Take me with you!”
So I hope they keep this switch-area-proud design. The tapered head as well, it’s just a unique look that sets it apart from others.
I also personally think it would be awesome if they could change the cut-out’s on the clip… make it read FF E07 to identify the light.
That is insane. Are you saying, with your heat sink, it was able to sustain 39,000 lumens!? Holy cow! Was the heatsink aluminum like the one in your photo or copper? I didn’t think sustaining anything over 15k lumens even in the largest lights was possible without active cooling.
“Sustain” is perceptual here, cells die fast when you’re pulling a high C discharge rate, if you have enough dispersion to outlast the cells then… the difference was that the light couldn’t be run 20-30 seconds before it had to be shut down, with the sink it would drain the cells. It’s not as much the sink at work as it is the factory cooling fins actually getting the heat (through the sink) to disperse it. Without the sink, the lower head where all the fins are only touches the underside of the emitter shelf with about 1/8” wide band of almuminum where the threads are, totally insufficient to pull the heat down into the deep fins. The sink remedied this, giving enough surface contact at the emitter shelf and enough mass to redirect heat to those fins.
Ha. Thats perty. Lot of work went into making that i’d guess. Practically speaking yes. Aesthetically, it is a little blingy—too many angles and jags milled into the fins. Looks like the fins are a mm or so thick with about 3-4mm spaced apart, sacrificing alot of mass that way, seems the trade off is more air flow to each individual fin. I liked the trj20 spacing and more conservative look (edit: but like dale has mentioned —pointless having all those precious fins without the insides being right.) But i guess if you want copper for heat you really gotta show it off cause its gonna cost. I dont know that it will fit with their toned down look. I’d want to frame it and hang it on a wall somewhere. Is this in your collection or did you find a pic? It sure does seem to fit the bill—with the deeper fins, though. Kind of looks like they belly a bit in the middle i’d guess top+bottom ~3/32-1/8” up to 7/32-1/4” deep at the belly? That’d be awesome.
Pretty little light. Looks like jewelry. Most of my lights are used in the field so i dont really want to carry something that pretty —i’d be afraid to use it.
BTW, aside from lung cancer and price is there a reason there are no flashlights made from conductivity-optimized beryllium copper alloys? They seem much superior to regulars ones and I would expect that some would take the cost and do the precautions and actually use it.
Was the heatsink aluminum like the one in your photo or copper? I didn’t think sustaining anything over 15k lumens even in the largest lights was possible without active cooling.
