Little mistake, already edited. Its 4,6mA, not 5,6.
Yes, each mode can be changed. Just select the mode in which you want to change the brightness and taptaptap (I recommend doing single/slowly taps) to reduce the current and hold for increase.
I noticed something strange. I have reduced the current of the lowest mode to about 35mA. After switching from Hi> Lo, Low it ramping from 0. It doesn’t work when turning on at lowest mode.
What does he said? :-D
Err, do you mean that, when switching from high to low, low starts ramping from 0 to your 35mA current setting? 
How fast?
Cheers :-)
Fast, but it can be seen. Half a second, maybe less. At 60mA, I didnt notice it.
Adjusted low mode to 100 mA and sometimes I see ramping too. Also my driver had strange modes by default: med 1.1A, high 2.2A. However, “set point” works as expected and all modes adjustable.
Barkuti, in other threads you said high mode might be bumped up via the jumper - is this the case? Did you try, and if it works - how is it?
Better try this:
All modes are independently adjustable.
Heatsink the driver well.
Cheers :-)
How do I set the Mod I plan to change? By On/off the power source and leaving the driver memorized the mode?
And does the Simon ´s method works on new drivers from Fasttech?
^
You need to chose mode that you want to change. And tap, tap, tap or hoooold.
Yes, its works.
Yeah, definitely !
Thanks!
I didn’t think it would work with the new version.
This seems to be normal.
Mine do this too, even with stock settings.
So, can the current of the high mode be adjusted to values higher than 3 Amperes? Or is 3 Amperes the maximum?
3A is max
3A is probably the maximum by design, to avoid onboard stuff burning out. But cooling can be improved, so time to stack additional sense resistors atop the stock
R010. Each R050 will allow extra +600mA, so up to 4.8A with 3x additional R050 sense resistors. I advice to install some tiny copper heatsink over the AON7520 MOSFET in such a case.
Cheers ^:)
P.S.: tried to use de simple post editor, Jerommel, but couldn't. The advanced one is WYSIWYG.
I guess i should have tried before, using the advanced post editor makes all the code invisible, so problem solved. :THUMBS-UP:
But i ordered some sub Ohm resistors to slap on top of the R010.
R020 on top should get me 4.5 Amperes. R030 should get me 4 Amperes.
Waiting for them to arrive...
Where to get cheeeap low value sense resistors? I have a few R050s, R200s and others scavenged from drivers, power bank boards, etc.
They weren’t super cheap.
Found them on Ebay:
Oh! Well, had to find some better deals:
- https://www.ebay.com/itm/0-02ohm-R020-20mR-1-1206-3216-1-4W-SMD-Chip-Resistor-3-2mm-1-6mm-NEW/332922039792 20mΩ 1206 20pcs low price.
- https://www.ebay.com/itm/0-02ohm-R020-20mR-1-1206-3216-1-4W-SMD-Chip-Resistor-3-2mm-1-6mm/254010224075 For 50 :-D and 100pcs, 20mΩ 1206.
- https://www.ebay.com/itm/0-01-0-02-0-1-0-2-0-3-0-4-0-5-0-22-0-25-0-33-0-068R-ohm-1-SMD-Resistor-1206/362514649033 68mΩ 1206 low price and others.
Of course 10 pieces is probably all you may need, but just in case. The 68mΩ resistor can be nice for certain regulated drivers like the H1-A, H2-C, LD-29, etc.
Cheers 
P.S.: Gonna build something with LD-25 plus white flat KW CSLNM1.TG maybe, Jerommel?
Yeah, waiting for those parts to make a B158(B) with the White Flat 1mm²
I also put a LD25 and a Flat White 1mm² in a Solarstorm SC01, but the optic i used doesn’t work out too well with this LED…
I have another optic to try out in it (cheap Led Lenser like TIR) which seems to do a better job.
It’s a stock LD25 because even the WindyFire 14500 sags a lot (too much to my liking) above 3 Amperes.
(I put the driver in there up side down and stuck a small Omten on the empty side of the board.)
Not sure yet what i’m gonna do with the 3rd White Flat 1mm² i got.
Your linked resistors are 0.25 Watt, mine are 1 Watt (according to the listing).
0.25 Watt is probably enough, but i felt better about getting 1 Watt.
Curios whether anyone with the same OP driver from Fasttech allows setting of output current as indicated in the video?
I decided to give the driver a try but the copy I have does not respond to taps or hold adjustments at all.
The L-M-H modes (and double-click strobe) all work as indicated. The current readings for mine are 0.09A, 0.91A and 1.7A (the lower High probably due battery being used). Regardless, I can’t get any adjustment activity when comnecting the set pad (tiny pad with hole in middle) to ground ring.
I wonder if the one from FT is different from the ones direct from Simon/Convoy even though they look similar on the outside?