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Is there any 16340 capable of 6A?

Currently available I guess not! There is/was the AWT IMR16340 15C but those are hard to find!
Most of the cells handle 3A but not much above it :zipper_mouth_face:

I recently asked Vapcell about a high current 16340 and after some discussion how that would sell (the 16340 format is hardly used in vaping so it would just sell for flashlights) Dennis from Vapcell promised to look into it. The AW 16340 15C from years ago (tested by HKJ) proved that a high current 16340 is well possible.

Yup, I noticed that in the thread :wink:
The only issue is that the 15C is very difficult to get (at a good price at least)! I really hope they can get it done, would be a fresh air in the 16340 flashlights! :blush:

Btw, I ordered some of these KW CSLPM1.TG leds, really curious how they do in some of my lights :slight_smile:

I’m interested to see the results :slight_smile:
But I’ll probably not buy them myself though, I would rather wait for the larger CULPM1.TG for better cooling and more lux.

Hi,I didn't test new Osram leds on mosX 20mm pcb, but I guess it would start to loose performance at >4Amps due to high power density. You could use standard Cu DTP and well cooled LD-A4.

I did not found the spacers for the C8 and FET Switch is not for sale now.

Due to larger number of orders and some other projects that I must finish, those stuff is unfortunately postponed.

At least I have ordered my 3 Q8 MCPCBs yesterday.
I hope some others will order them too and you will get your invest back.

Asking is free, so I’ll ask…

I am fed up with dealing with reflector shorts and thick wires on MCPCBs. I don’t quite understand why there aren’t any LED MCPCBs that have through holes/vias that are wire connection points instead of the slots for wires to pass through and solder on top.

I’d like something like this: An Unorthodox Way to Solder a wire to an MCPCB ~ ~ Low Profile Attachment (HD2010) but instead of having to drill new holes on the pill/shelf, have two of the existing slots for wires converted to holes for direct wire soldering. This would make things a lot easier. Is there a reason why these kind of MCPCBs don’t exist? Have you considered making MCPCBs like this? I’d only buy these if they existed.

From what I know, the problem is probably the substrate.

In normal PCBs, the substrate is FR4 (fiberglass laminate) which is non conductive. It’s just the thin (1oz or 2oz) copper layers on top and bottom which are electrically conductive.
Let’s say you have a FR4-PCB for the LED. You drill the hole, feed the wire trough it and you’re done. There is no real problem as the FR-4 isolates your connection to the flashlight host.

Now for the MCPCB:
Here, the substrate is copper or aluminium. This means, if any part of the wire contacts the MCPCB, it has a short to the body of the flashlight.
The only thing isolation the top copper layer to the thick copper substrate is a pretty thin layer of isolator in between. You want this isolator to be as thin as possible.

You CAN of course add some kind of isolation, but that would increase the cost dramatically. I would guess around 10x the cost of a DTP MCPCB

I think your soldering skills allow using more professional decisions. For example, tiny connectors with small pin located near pcb edge and outer contact soldered to the driver wire.

I would say 100x for mosled X technology.

P.S.
It could be possible, if 2-side alu and copper core board were common, so contact point could be places from the backside and isolated from the host.

I did a fast mockup of how that proposed idea would look.

The problem is, the thin red isolation layer is even smaller in real life. As is the top copper layer. I had to expand them so they are better to see.
We’re talking less than a millimeter.

Now, if just a tiny bit of solder makes a connection down to the substrate copper - you have a short.

Looks like the driver used in the Oveready B.O.S.S. / Lux-RC 371D

Do you know how they did the thermal transfer from the LED to the body? Vias? Metallic inserts?

Because the PCB looks like a 2/4 layer FR4 board.

https://www.cutter.com.au/product/mcpcb-xml_xhp5032_tpad/

Some TPAD PCBs use TH pads for wires.

Honestly I see more disadvantages with this:

1.It doesn't really solve "bump" problem, you still need to put some solder on top,so surface is not flat

2.How easy/hard is to solder wires on big copper PCB with those TH pads?

3.Tolerances of holes for wires in flashlight pills/heads are pretty bad from my experience, TH wire pads would be more sensitive to those tolerances

4.TH wire pad means you have pad also on bottom of PCB, this means you must be very careful not to short them to pill/head - high precision holes are required, and no pcb twisting is allowed

5. Price is higher.

Soldering skills? I hate soldering. Adding pins might work on a triple in your pic, but triples with triple optics don’t have reflector shorting issues, and therefor don’t have the issues that I’m fed up with. I can’t see that adding pins on a “standard” MCPCB would help with reflector shorting issues. You still have to connect the pin to the pad somehow.

If people can drill holes through the MCPCB and do this without shorts, I can’t see the need for such a complicated design. But yes, I admit I know nothing about fabrication methods for LED MCPCBs. If I knew enough about that stuff I would have designed something myself and wouldn’t have needed to spend time whining in here.

Perfectly flat isn’t needed. A little bump would be so much better than the whole wire bent, just like in the thread I linked to.

Don’t know. I don’t see the actual soldering to be any harder. I’m thinking isolated holes with pads on top only.

More sensitive yes, but too sensitive? I guess I haven’t dealt with so many hosts, from my experience tolerances wouldn’t be so bad that this wouldn’t work.

Would you really need that? I’m thinking more of an isolated hole with LED connection pads on top side only. Or simple through holes just like the drilled holes in the thread I linked to, except the drilled holes are actually in the place of two of the standard wire notches, and the LED connection PADs run out to them, using the wire coating as isolation.

Yes… so? I would pay extra for it because it would save me headaches. People have spent a various amount of time dealing with reflector shorts and ways to get around them like in that thread. I’d just be happy to pay extra to avoid it… but as I can’t find any MCPCBs like this, I guess I’m alone.

Dont know anything about most modern modules. Some time ago pcb was made from 3 layers - aluminium base + best possible isolator + top thin pcb. First modules had copper insert (thin coin with 3 central pads growing) and top layer had holes for this pads.

P.S. Please dont try to repeat lux-rc technics. They are not budget and usually require a lab equipped as good as it is needed to win Nobel prize in physics.

Thanks for that bit. Seems plausible.

As for repeating their ideas: Thanks for the warning. I view myself as experienced enough to know what is a good idea and what is just a pain in the rear. (ECE education + >5 yr electronics + embedded systems experience)

Pins can be located at thin edge - solder bubble is usually much bigger and way more close to the center.
Pins can be angled - i.e. you can move connection outside the pcb border.
Pins can have isolated base.

If pcb diameter is too small and reflector base is too big, I see only one decision. You extra thin pcb, soldered with hot air face to face to main pcb. In most cases it can be little bigger than stock pcb. Also you can use flat metal strips with thin heatsink instead of wires (power tool batteries can carry 10amps trough nickel strips but I think copper is better).