I keep seeing you mention “dedomed and sealed” - what does sealed mean in this context?
Richard managed to de-dome the SST-40 and then he sealed it with LED Seal to protect the bond wires. I’ve never used the stuff, but it appears to be a clear almost epoxy like stuff that is put on like one drop, it spreads and covers the die and bond wires and leaves a thin durable coating, like a micro dome.
How significant is this compared to just slicing above the wires
Still have some details to nail down, and there will eventually be a double carrier tube on it…
I thought Richard does a close slice then polish for the SST40. Rather than a true dedome due to the common problem of the weak SST40 bond wires. That’s what it looks like from the ones I’ve got from him. Unless he’s changed his process.
This is the first of my 3535GAW drivers, well not this one, this one is built with all recycled parts off the bench for testing and design verification purposes (digikey order en route) but this is the quad AT-008 one up and running anduril.
Thank you for that pictures. That makes something clear.
I was thinking about, how you will fit these LEDs inside a small Q8 head.
With this new head, you have more terminal heat mass.
Is the new head only screwed to the bezel-threads?
Is there some free space where the former LEDs and the reflector was? Or goes your new aditional head down to the old LED-Shelf?
Whats the diameter of the head?
Very good work Dale!!!
I shaped the end of a 4” bar of 6061 to fit down into the Q8, seating firmly on the original emitter shelf and threaded into the bezel threads. There are more threads in the light than the bezel shows so it takes several revolutions to screw this piece all the way down. The two screws that once kept the reflector from turning now lock this new head in place.
With 4 Samsung 25S cells the light weighs 3 lbs 2 oz. 
WFP, shaped it like this…
It’s not torch related but it’s a mod -
I had a 3s lipo pack kicking around I made it into a phone power bank. It’s not huge capacity but it will do QC2 
Only issue is I have to charge it with a hobby charger through the balance tap. It’s all hard wired and epoxied. I’m thinking I could’ve shortened the cable I little too but never mind.
Nice charge rate to the Ol Samsung! When it works, it’s ALWAYS a good thing!
Thanks Dale 
How come you don’t make a build thread for that monster?
I put a rosy 219B R9080 sw45k into a Zebralight SC64c. 
Many thanks to Bob_McBob for the inspiration and detailed tips! 
I sanded down a cheap screwdriver to pry the bezel out, which went smoother than I expected.
I used a hook made out of a safety pin to pull the driver out.
My friend’s hot air station only had large square nozzles for BGA processors, so I made a thin one from aluminum foil.
Nicely done goshdogit!
I put a LH351D 4000K 90CRI in my A6. Measured 1552 lumens OTF. Bought from led4power and was a 5 minute job. Tint is very even with a bit of green, colours pop nicely under it
I was inspired by thisnameisvalid and decided to rebuild my very first modded light, my A6!
I put in a Luxeon V2 4000K 70CRI (a 3535 package brand new LED). I think I got the first 10 available from DigiKey here
According to my shoebox I got 1,367lm turn on and 1,094lm at 30 seconds using a VTC6. I decided not to try my VTC5A yet in case I kill it.
I tried to measure amp draw but I think the thin tube on this A6 makes it hard to get good contact. I think it was ~6.5A on the same VTC6 after about 45s of turbo use. This is with a bypassed tail and blue small spring (no bypass) on driver side.
The beam is similar in tint to Luxeon V1 (the 4040 one) but exactly as you would expect, a bit more throwy and less power. Comparing it to a LH351D 4000K 90CRI I would say the Luxeon is MUCH more ‘rosy’, no hint of green, and just overall more white. However, i’m a little disappointed in the output. I expected something a lot closer to a LH351D as the datasheet and everything matches it very closely.
This week i’m going to build a Sofirn C8F with this LED and drive it as hard as possible (30T probably) and get a better tail reading.
Yeah. The die is quite a bit smaller than the one in the Luxeon V. It also has a smaller footprint, so can’t scale as well due to thermal limitations.
Yea just wishful thinking. The output is great either way and i’m pretty sure this will be my goto LED when i dont care about CRI and want a 3535 LED.
I put a “white flat” into a VG-10 style light.
I’m using a 3A buck driver for now. I plan to upgrade to a ~4.5-5A regulated driver at some point.
I used some UV set resin to narrow down an XP centering ring, then a small triangular file to open it up enough for the emitter.
I think there is probably still some focusing work I can do, but the first guess turned out pretty well. I don’t have decent beam shots. I can say that the diameter of hot-spot is just a little bigger (~10%) than that from a XP-L HI in my Convoy L2. At 3 amps, the output is lower, so the intensity is lower than the L2, but at higher current, they should be more comparable. Not bad for a light with a 23mm reflector.
CRX CuTi Triple Nichia 219C 4000K - 18350 - FET 17 - Fw Clicky Sw - 2100lm.