Received my CSLNM1.TG after close to a month. It’s running with the A6 driver, since it’s cheap and easily available. Managed to get ~900 lumens and 640,000cd (1600m). Tried shooting at a building ~870m away with light pollution and I can definitely still see it hitting the building. Thing is a beast.
EDIT: Remeasured and centered, got 340kcd.
Beam comparison with BLF Q8 LH351D and L2 White Flat
How is the tint compared to a Cree 1A tint? Is it warmer, cooler? Can someone please post a comparison beamshot between a 1A or 1C Cree tint and this Led?
Nope, I didn’t bother centering the LED and surprised me when I took the measurements. But there is some kapton tape inside even though I know there won’t be any shorts, but I’m paranoid so better safe than sorry. The reflector probably sits a tiny bit higher because of that.
When I was done building, I thought “huh, that was easy” and was really skeptical of my measurements but I tried measuring a couple times and they were all consistent.
680-713lms at 4.5-5.5 amps 6-7amps didn’t produce any more out put out of any single emitters I built and 2100lms at 14.5-15amps out of a triple. I have 9 of these emitters and only 1tested at 730lms the max I could get? I run them on 2S 3v 4.5-5.0 and 5.5amp buck drivers and a ramping D4v2 FETDD and a FETDD Guppydrv3 with the FET’s changed out and 24awg leads, no driver spring bypass drivers. All purchased from Led4Power on 16-20mm boards and 3 singles for the triple. My favorite is the custom M3 single 18350 Flat White with Fast-2-Gun rail attachment.
The hot spot is actually much smaller the corona is about half of the diameter, as the camera dose not quite capture it correctly, it’s is clean and tight in real life, and throws like hell for a 35x30mm reflector, You can see the beam as it lights the Stop sign a full city block down with out a problem even with all the street and house lights on in my hood!
Pulled a 22mm linear driver (14x7135 I think?) from my Enogear EC21/Nightwatch NS02 and put it in my Jaxman Z1 with a white flat. I magic smoked it on the first try too from over tightening the ring above LED.
~4.85A tail reading for 384kcd measured at 5 meters.
I wonder what results will be if these high cd flashlights measured at 15-20m. Just my mind working. if you read a super range thrower at 5m a very nice number but at 15-20m read much lower numbers you read wrong. Because the beam focused to 5m. And at bigger distances it will widening out and loose intensity. I always measure throwers at 10-15-20-25m and try to focus the light to get the highest intensity at 20-25m readings.
I’ll try to do that when I have the time. I managed to get 1600m. I compared the beam to an Olight M3X and it blew that out the water. Also compared it to a Nitecore TM38 and beam was still tighter though.
I put one in a Supfire F5, that was housing a dedomed XP-G S4 2B before. It did exactly 100kcd with the XP-G2. It is not a well-known light, a well-built 18650 zoomie with effectively 26mm plastic lens, here’s a pic.
Everything was done thermally as good as possible in this host. I first removed both spring bypasses and then added them again one by one because I hoped to get into the 130’s kcd. I ended with 120 kcd at start, 110 kcd at 30 seconds (with 500lm flood, 165lm spot). Still an improvement over the dedomed S4 2B, and certainly a better tint and beam shape, and contrary to the S4 2B the throw will hardly go down when the battery drains.
Dang! I am buying new EDC but I need something that won’t turn on accidentally in my pocket. But now you came with 120KCD for this tiny zoomie and that is OMG :+1:
I think on one pic is seen that it does not has anodized tailcap tube and switch threads. When flashlight has anodized threads we can turn it on/off with twist to turn move or just unscrew tailcap slightly to prevent accidentally turning on.