What did you mod today?

10725 posts / 0 new
Last post
DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 6 days ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 20733
Location: Heart of Texas

Olight likes press fit bezels that can be difficult to remove…

EasyB
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 2 days ago
Joined: 03/09/2016 - 15:24
Posts: 2191
Location: Ohio

Dale, are we going to get more pictures of your ultra mega Q8?

pc_light
pc_light's picture
Offline
Last seen: 16 hours 9 min ago
Joined: 03/24/2017 - 16:19
Posts: 459
Location: United States

@Dale, thanks.

On the basis of what I had to do to get inside Tired I can vouch that the i3T is built to be fairly water and drop resistant.

What attracted me to the light was the runtime & regulation they managed to squeeze out of an ordinary AAA and the forward clicky. And now with a great tint, it’s a tri-fecta Thumbs Up


SKV89 wrote:
What size is the mcpcb? Was breaking the plastic lens unavoidable?
It took a 10mm mcpcb. The Philips Luxeon PCB was not reuseable/reflowable as it has different footprint than typical Nichia/Cree 3535 X-type (it’s also not metal core). Same for the lens, the few things I tried didn’t work, including taking heat to the lens to soften any glue…that only distorted the plastic lens Facepalm after which it didn’t matter any more. Fortunately I had a salvaged 12mm glass lens I was able to use instead.


X3 wrote:
So you have to unscrew the bezel to get the LED, right ?
As far as I could tell there’s nothing to unscrew. The LED & lens assembly appear to be press fit and/or glued in. This light does not appear to be built to be modded/serviced but then that’s what makes it more robust.


Unlike most other AAA lights I’ve tackled which typically involve a small pill that is complete with driver and LED MCPCB, the i3T is designed more like some larger lights using an integrated shelf. Here’s a peak under the LED PCB, the shelf facilitates direct heat transfer to the body.

Seeking the light.

-X3-
-X3-'s picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 21 hours ago
Joined: 07/16/2014 - 03:28
Posts: 2745
Location: France, Angers

I still don’t get how you removed the optic/glass/LED

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)

My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)

M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$ 

pc_light
pc_light's picture
Offline
Last seen: 16 hours 9 min ago
Joined: 03/24/2017 - 16:19
Posts: 459
Location: United States

X3 wrote:
I still don’t get how you removed the optic/glass/LED
I removed it by inserting a tiny thin mini-screwdriver in from one side and wigging side-to-side to break any bond/glue. Once the bond/glue was loose, it pried out.

Perhaps if done carefully, one could salvage the soft plastic lens for re-use (sans any damage to the edge where the screwdriver went in) but in my case it was already deformed from trying heat so I made no attempt to preserve it.

Afterwards one could either try pressing the lens back in or replacing it with another, in my case I did the latter with a glass lens that I glued in.

Seeking the light.

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 6 days ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 20733
Location: Heart of Texas

On my big Quad quad plus one light, I was looking at the empty spaces this morning and trying to figure out how to finish that off… Two of the 4 spaces have a “T” intersection of the 18ga Teflon positive wire crossing the 14Ga Red Turnigy, so that needs to be sealed and capped. So I got to thinking, and looking around…. I would like to use 2 of the Sofirn carriers with 8 cells when all is said and done, so it will be 8 18650 cells powering up 5 drivers to 4 Quads and the output really hammers, right? So I found a new cartridge developed just this year for a specialized custom AR-15… the .458 HAM’R! I’m inquiring with brass companies to see if I can get a few pcs of this brass to fit into the voids here, maybe even put small SMD emitters in the primer cup and run these with the switch light for a glow up top. Big Smile I can use Sugru (uncured Silicone) under and around the electrical connection and also to glue in a cut down .458 HAM’R brass cartridge such that the headstamp is up against the lens like the Quad optics and center reflector. Lighting it may be more than I want to bite off, but I could certainly fill the primer cup with a glow in the dark powder and cut a window in the side of the cartridge to allow this powder to charge when the lights are illuminated. Wink

Anyone got any once fired .458 HAM’R brass laying around? Wink

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 6 days ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 20733
Location: Heart of Texas

contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 53 min ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 3645
Location: US

I keep seeing you mention “dedomed and sealed” – what does sealed mean in this context?

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 6 days ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 20733
Location: Heart of Texas

Richard managed to de-dome the SST-40 and then he sealed it with LED Seal to protect the bond wires. I’ve never used the stuff, but it appears to be a clear almost epoxy like stuff that is put on like one drop, it spreads and covers the die and bond wires and leaves a thin durable coating, like a micro dome.

contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 53 min ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 3645
Location: US
DB Custom wrote:
Richard managed to de-dome the SST-40 and then he sealed it with LED Seal to protect the bond wires. I’ve never used the stuff, but it appears to be a clear almost epoxy like stuff that is put on like one drop, it spreads and covers the die and bond wires and leaves a thin durable coating, like a micro dome.

How significant is this compared to just slicing above the wires

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 6 days ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 20733
Location: Heart of Texas

Still have some details to nail down, and there will eventually be a double carrier tube on it…

EasyB
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 2 days ago
Joined: 03/09/2016 - 15:24
Posts: 2191
Location: Ohio

I thought Richard does a close slice then polish for the SST40. Rather than a true dedome due to the common problem of the weak SST40 bond wires. That’s what it looks like from the ones I’ve got from him. Unless he’s changed his process.

Cereal_killer
Cereal_killer's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 11 months ago
Joined: 07/22/2013 - 13:10
Posts: 4005
Location: Ohio

This is the first of my 3535GAW drivers, well not this one, this one is built with all recycled parts off the bench for testing and design verification purposes (digikey order en route) but this is the quad AT-008 one up and running anduril.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

Wieselflinkpro
Wieselflinkpro's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 4 days ago
Joined: 05/21/2015 - 04:34
Posts: 980
Location: Germany - TLF

DB Custom wrote:

Still have some details to nail down, and there will eventually be a double carrier tube on it…


Thank you for that pictures. That makes something clear.
I was thinking about, how you will fit these LEDs inside a small Q8 head.
With this new head, you have more terminal heat mass.

Is the new head only screwed to the bezel-threads?
Is there some free space where the former LEDs and the reflector was? Or goes your new aditional head down to the old LED-Shelf?

Whats the diameter of the head?

Very good work Dale!!!!

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 6 days ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 20733
Location: Heart of Texas

I shaped the end of a 4” bar of 6061 to fit down into the Q8, seating firmly on the original emitter shelf and threaded into the bezel threads. There are more threads in the light than the bezel shows so it takes several revolutions to screw this piece all the way down. The two screws that once kept the reflector from turning now lock this new head in place.

With 4 Samsung 25S cells the light weighs 3 lbs 2 oz. Big Smile

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 6 days ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 20733
Location: Heart of Texas

WFP, shaped it like this…

pinkpanda3310
pinkpanda3310's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 21 hours ago
Joined: 12/28/2013 - 08:45
Posts: 3045
Location: Perth

It’s not torch related but it’s a mod -

I had a 3s lipo pack kicking around I made it into a phone power bank. It’s not huge capacity but it will do QC2 Cool Only issue is I have to charge it with a hobby charger through the balance tap. It’s all hard wired and epoxied. I’m thinking I could’ve shortened the cable I little too but never mind.



  

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 6 days ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 20733
Location: Heart of Texas

Nice charge rate to the Ol Samsung! When it works, it’s ALWAYS a good thing! Big Smile

pinkpanda3310
pinkpanda3310's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 21 hours ago
Joined: 12/28/2013 - 08:45
Posts: 3045
Location: Perth

Thanks Dale Beer

How come you don’t make a build thread for that monster?

  

goshdogit
goshdogit's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 6 min ago
Joined: 12/03/2015 - 21:28
Posts: 1389

I put a rosy 219B R9080 sw45k into a Zebralight SC64c. Love

Many thanks to Bob_McBob for the inspiration and detailed tips! Thumbs Up

I sanded down a cheap screwdriver to pry the bezel out, which went smoother than I expected.

I used a hook made out of a safety pin to pull the driver out.

My friend’s hot air station only had large square nozzles for BGA processors, so I made a thin one from aluminum foil.

Pavlo
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 44 min ago
Joined: 12/13/2015 - 10:37
Posts: 979
Location: Canada

goshdogit wrote:
I put a rosy 219B R9080 sw45k into a Zebralight SC64c. Love

Many thanks to Bob_McBob for the inspiration and detailed tips! Thumbs Up

I sanded down a cheap screwdriver to pry the bezel out, which went smoother than I expected.

I used a hook made out of a safety pin to pull the driver out.

My friend’s hot air station only had large square nozzles for BGA processors, so I made a thin one from aluminum foil.

Nicely done goshdogit!

thisnameisvalid
thisnameisvalid's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 06/03/2017 - 15:54
Posts: 187
Location: England, United Kingdom

I put a LH351D 4000K 90CRI in my A6. Measured 1552 lumens OTF. Cool Bought from led4power and was a 5 minute job. Tint is very even with a bit of green, colours pop nicely under it

contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 53 min ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 3645
Location: US

I was inspired by thisnameisvalid and decided to rebuild my very first modded light, my A6!

I put in a Luxeon V2 4000K 70CRI (a 3535 package brand new LED). I think I got the first 10 available from DigiKey here

According to my shoebox I got 1,367lm turn on and 1,094lm at 30 seconds using a VTC6. I decided not to try my VTC5A yet in case I kill it.

I tried to measure amp draw but I think the thin tube on this A6 makes it hard to get good contact. I think it was ~6.5A on the same VTC6 after about 45s of turbo use. This is with a bypassed tail and blue small spring (no bypass) on driver side.

The beam is similar in tint to Luxeon V1 (the 4040 one) but exactly as you would expect, a bit more throwy and less power. Comparing it to a LH351D 4000K 90CRI I would say the Luxeon is MUCH more ‘rosy’, no hint of green, and just overall more white. However, i’m a little disappointed in the output. I expected something a lot closer to a LH351D as the datasheet and everything matches it very closely.

This week i’m going to build a Sofirn C8F with this LED and drive it as hard as possible (30T probably) and get a better tail reading.

BlueSwordM
BlueSwordM's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 3 days ago
Joined: 11/29/2017 - 12:34
Posts: 5608
Location: Canada

Yeah. The die is quite a bit smaller than the one in the Luxeon V. It also has a smaller footprint, so can’t scale as well due to thermal limitations.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 53 min ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 3645
Location: US
BlueSwordM wrote:
Yeah. The die is quite a bit smaller than the one in the Luxeon V. It also has a smaller footprint, so can’t scale as well due to thermal limitations.

Yea just wishful thinking. The output is great either way and i’m pretty sure this will be my goto LED when i dont care about CRI and want a 3535 LED.

eas
eas's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 10 months ago
Joined: 07/14/2014 - 18:53
Posts: 1363
Location: PNW

I put a “white flat” into a VG-10 style light.

textileRef:183704099361ac5240395ba:linkStartMarker:“
!{width:80%}http://d112tss1dzpest.cloudfront.net/wp-content/blogs.dir/22/files/2018/...

I’m using a 3A buck driver for now. I plan to upgrade to a ~4.5-5A regulated driver at some point.

I used some UV set resin to narrow down an XP centering ring, then a small triangular file to open it up enough for the emitter.

I think there is probably still some focusing work I can do, but the first guess turned out pretty well. I don’t have decent beam shots. I can say that the diameter of hot-spot is just a little bigger (~10%) than that from a XP-L HI in my Convoy L2. At 3 amps, the output is lower, so the intensity is lower than the L2, but at higher current, they should be more comparable. Not bad for a light with a 23mm reflector.

CRX
CRX's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 1 week ago
Joined: 04/02/2013 - 15:27
Posts: 4231
Location: Scotland

CRX CuTi Triple Nichia 219C 4000K - 18350 - FET 17 - Fw Clicky Sw - 2100lm.

contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 53 min ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 3645
Location: US

I always seem to run into some new problem every time I mod something. This time I either corrupted or erased the firmware on a new driver without noticing. Build up my light, nothing. Redo all connections, check for shorts, check e-switch, the whole nine yards. Then I think, hmm let me go to a different version of Anduril just in case. Bingo. Re flashed and all works fine. I thought in the back of my mind it flashed “too quickly” the first time but ignored it.

Anyways, as promised. I put a 3x Luxeon V2 4000K 70CRI in my C8F 21700

21700 VTC6A – not quite topped off

  • 0s 3,461 with 12.5-13A tail reading

21700 30T – just about fully topped off

  • 0s 3,792
  • 30s 3,019 (may have been throttling, not sure)

To put this into perspective I built a similar light with LH351D 4000K 90CRI and got 3,486 at 0s on a full 30T.

I couldn’t take a picture side by side and make the tints appear true to life, not sure why but the Luxeon V2 does feel closer to the BBL than the LH351D in that there is less green. It also looks like there is more intensity in the hot spot.

jimF
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 30 min ago
Joined: 10/28/2018 - 23:26
Posts: 37
Location: Missouri

I have a pile of 4000k XM-L’s destined to replace the emitters in several older lights. First tried it on a crelant 7g5l2 that I hated, reflowed the LED successfully using a pizza pan on the stove with a thermal gun but could’t solder the leads with my 25 watt iron and ended up breaking leads. Later took a look at my broken rrt-3 jetbeam (burned out emitter) and with all of the space in there was tempted to give it a go. Reflowing the LED’s didn’t go so well, the uneven heat on the stove warped the mcpcb, and then again couldn’t get the leads to solder without having contact with the reflector. Argh.

Bought a proper weller soldering station and all of the supplies mentioned by texas ace in his videos, flux, solder, etc.

Tried to have a go assembling a convoy s2 with driver and mcpcb on the pill, failed and ended up unsoldering the components of the driver trying to solder it to the brass pill. Got everything back in its correct places (7135’s) but when assembled no light.

Took the whole thing back apart, watched another of his videos that I wish I’d had seen before I started, as it appears you need to heat up the pill before trying to solder it. I was getting cold solder joints, and getting it to solder made it hot enough to where things started coming apart.

So now have a temperure controlled electric griddle on its way, with a new (and much cheaper) driver, hope to have more luck and get my first assembly done but if i break it it will hurt less than the $17 driver i ruined..

Probably will pick up some solder projects from microcenter, need to work up my skills to where I’ll be comfortable replacing the leds on my tn30, tn31 maybe, tm11, and a few others.

Losing the rrt-3 really hurt because that was my first “real” flashlight back then and wasn’t exactly inexpensive..

Agro
Agro's picture
Online
Last seen: 2 min 43 sec ago
Joined: 05/14/2017 - 11:16
Posts: 6868
Location: Ślōnsk

CRX, that’s Cute. Smile

Pages