Yes same on the two I have
Interesting.
So the D4S comes with 15-degree (throwy) by default.
I usually like floody lights better (I’ve changed my D4 from the default 10622 to 10623, also purchased from Intl-Outdoor).
I don’t see other optic choices for the D4S in Intl-Outdoor though. May have to look where to purchase the 31-degree or 37-degree optic you described above (and can ship to my country at reasonable fee…)
Um, y’all DO realize that the listed order of degree is based on a half angle? So 15º listed is, in reality, a 30º spread? That’s why it’s tough to get a really tight spot from an optic, it has to use like an XP-E2 for 4º listed or something like that. You seldom see a 2º, which would be a really nice tight hot spot.
I could be wrong of course, but pretty sure this is how it is. (My memory, being what it is and all)
And for what it’s worth, Ledil lists the Angie as being available in 12º, 20º, 25º and 30º. While we do see listings for “optimized for Xxx emitter” they are still the same model numbers across the emitter line-up. Some emitters will show a varying output degree and efficiency. Example, the Spot optic which is listed as 12º allows 10º from an Oslon SSL-150 and a much wider 21º from an XP-L HD.
Ok, so I stand corrected. The end result is much like I described but it actually means…“In describing how a certain secondary optic or lens can collimate a beam, we often look at the viewing angle or full width half maximum (FWHM). FWHM is the angular width of the beam when the intensity at the edge is half the intensity in the center of the beam. ”
So it’s not really a good indication of how wide the hot spot is.
Full-width at half maximum (FWHM) doesn’t mean half of the beam, but the full beam width where it drops to half of the peak intensity. This example measurement by Maukka from another light might help demonstrate the concept, with a FWHM of a little over 22 degrees, meaning a half width of 11 degrees.
Because halving intensity isn’t perceived as a significant difference, the hotspot is typically perceived as being wider than the FWHM value. Exactly how much wider depends on the shape of the beam falloff. A couple examples of similar optics, with the same emitter, but different beam falloffs:
Carclo 10621 and Nichia 219C
Carclo 10622 and Nichia 219C
The 10621 has a slightly higher peak output, but steeper falloff, so the hotspot may seem a little tighter or have a more abrupt transition to spill.
As noted, it also varies depending on the emitter. I think the D4S with the XP-L HD will likely have a similar beam profile to the regular D4 with the XP-L HI.
I just decided to purchase one of these. I was skimming through the pages and then realized there was over 40 pages. Has anyone found a clip that fits for this light?
I just got my D4S and I am very impressed with the design! already set up the thermal calibration and the temperature step down, understanding the UI has been a breeze. Awesome job ToyKeeper 
I would like to suggest a couple of improvements on the RampingIOS ToyKeeper,
FIRST
When in lockout mode, I would like to have the following option:
Five clicks and hold to enter lockout mode flashlight configuration that has the following options:
1.- Turn off the flashlight so it does not produce any light when button is pressed when in lockout mode.
2.- Assign brightness level for the lockout mode by ramping up to a user defined brightness but nothing over maybe 20 Lumens, if they need more just go to tactical mode instead.
SECOND
When in tactical mode, I would like to have the following
10 clicks and hold to enter tactical mode flashlight configuration that has the following options
1.- Switch between the regular set brightness you already have and maybe 2 or 3 types of user selectable strobes
Thank you for all you do ToyKeeper!
Sincerely
AlexGT
FWIW, you can assign the brightness level for lockout mode. It uses the current ramp’s floor value. But it doesn’t have a way to make lockout not light up at all when the button is pressed.
Momentary mode is meant to be usable for signalling, so that absolutely any pattern of button presses can be sent as a signal. That’s not really compatible with having an embedded config mode. However, I have a note in the sources to maybe figure out a way to make the strobe modes work in a momentary fashion. I don’t have a good solution for that yet though. Perhaps it’d be something like 5 clicks for momentary, or hold the 5th click for momentary strobe. And use whatever strobe was last accessed.
So… the idea is at least written down for later use.
Alex, keep in mind that the ramping IOS is Hank at Intl-Outdoor’s baby… while TK may have been instrumental in it’s reality it was Hank that decided how his light would perform.
Talk to Hank about the implementations you’d like to see in his lights or reflash the MCU to your own coding. 
Thanks, it was just an idea I wanted to share…
I also found a nice silicone diffuser for this light in case someone is looking for one, this one fits nicely
Is the 36mm size from this link
And here is a picture of it installed
I´m newbie @BLF and need some advice before i finally order the (Green) D4s with Green leds.
I know Hank have red and amber also, but i think that the Green will be more useful as "moonlight"
I´m going for the new Added XP-L HD V6 options on Nov, 9, more lumens, more flood/less throw.
Q should i chose the 6500 or 5000? Also need to know a little more about the heat. Less is safer.
I need flood more than throw, also appreciate the option to reflash the D4s with future firmwares.
Greetings from Sweden! Any memberadvice regarding the Led and tint?
Welcome! In general, I think that’s more useful to find the light in the dark than as a moonlight. Also, to be honest, moonlight is lower than the high-mode of the Aux-LEDs.
If you have no preference, go for 5000K. Heat should not be a huge difference between those two. There is more difference between different LED types (Nichia 219C, XP-G3, XP-L)
Regarding flashing: This is currently the easiest light to flash a new firmware to. There are 2 different connector styles (2x3 and 1x6) out there, but they are easy to use if you can solder.
Most importantly: You don’t have to disassemble the head.
Thank you zeroflow for welcoming me here.
Ok, your reply will give me the guidelines i need.
Amber was my first choice, and if moonlightmode is lover than the leds i might change my ming and go for Amber.
I can imagine that amber looks like glow (old bulb) in the dark, and strong enough to find the D4s in a dark room.
As a visual impaired user that function is very much appreciated, and will not drain the battery if it´s always ON
So, XP-L HD 5000K and Amber might be my choice after reading your advise.
Do you know if it is the Blue or Black version of 26650 here? https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4s-26650-high-power-led-flashlight-p-932.html
Cyan makes a great moonlight.
Thank you Texas Toasted.
I´m shure it is very good, but i´m one of them that hate blue leds, in car stereos and everywhere.
I´m an old tech radionerd från 1958, and really prefer the amber and orange (my favorite colour)
The green leds looks cool in a green flashlight, so it will be green or the amber. Have too Google.
Or wait for more reply´s here :)
I can see the amber looking great in the green light, the green and gold of legend. 
Welcome to insanity grand central, be forewarned that flashaholism is an addiction that gobbles up plastic and all the cash in your wallet at amazing speeds!
If you don’t like blue LED’s, then stay at 5000K or below. By 5700K the light is a bluish-white in appearance and above 6000K it’s very very noticeable. Many here like below 4000K, but that will be entirely up to you of course. You might find the lower Kelvin temperatures easier on your eyes.
If you can get Anduril flashed to your D4S it is easy to set the ceiling in Anduril so you can avoid heat issues with a simple lowered ceiling in the ramp. A double click to Turbo easily allows full use of the light when needed. Anduril also allows more complete thermal control through the firmware. AND it adds a candlelight mode and lightning mode that you would love to use, especially if you go with a warmer white tint to begin with. Candlelight flickers like a candle, you can set the brightness level easily and you can also set a 30 minute timer to turn it off, or double it to an hour… pretty neat having an electric candle…
Thank you DB Custom.
That was the information needed to finish my order, also mailed Hank about firmwares.
I have to solve that later on, i know how to soldering but at this time not how to update it.
Will have to search BLF for that, but i´m shure that i will try other firmwares 2018/2019
Crazy spending: I know exactly, have done the same with "needed" vapestuff since 2015
Here: www.vapeforum.se
MRsDNF wrote this 10/24/2018 - 17:12 @BLF
"Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife"
I really like that:)
Order now completed: Emisar D4S 26650 High Power LED Flashlight
- Magnet in the tailcap - Yes
- Color - Green (smooth surface)
- Aux LED - Amber
- Led & Tint - Neutral White - XP-L HD V6 3D, 5000K
- Battery - 1 * LiitoKala 5000mAh 26650 cell
Greetings. (May Good bless me and my wallet)
Happy to have been able to help. You’re going to love your new flashlight, it’s an awesome smallish handful…
I know you’re new here so please just remember, ToyKeeper is the light of this forum, always look to her and you’ll never go wrong. That’s the pure and simple of it, right there.
Indeed! So Eloquently put my good man! :+1:
I bought this light several months ago, and it seemed that I had pretty much found the Holy Grail of flashlights (at least for my main purpose, daily dog walks).
Unfortunately it started flickering pretty badly about a week or two ago - mainly just after turning it on, or after changing the brightness level. There is also considerable stuttering when I try ramping. Sometimes it won’t ramp at all, or it will just jump from one level to the other instead of ramping smoothly, and it will also flicker on those occasions. It seems to be getting worse, and I am worried that it will soon become unusable.
Is there any remedy for this? Apologies if this has been asked before, as I have not got the time to read through all the comments on this post.
Flickering is almost always a ground issue. Make sure any retaining rings are snugged down and that all contacts are clean.