I’m in but I can’t give any advice due to my lack of knowledge. I’m lucky I can solder them in place.
Edit- I will pull myself from the drawing. Other than being able to install it, I will not be of much service toward the build. Awesome GAW, especially to those with the technical know how.
MikeC, first of all, thanks for the GAW! I am not able to say something about the driver functioning itself as I know nothing about it’s architecture and all the stuff used to make it…work!
If I can give a contribute, I’ll let you know what is my favourite firmware and UI for reverse/forward clicky switches, at the moment!
It is the guppy3drv FW (by Dr Jones) and I am using a 17mm driver (from MTN) on a Convoy S2+!
I am using it with forward clicky switch for momentary ON and because with a FC switch I can “double click” and access to Turbo or Strobe (depending on the chosen configuration).
That driver has a nice true Moonlinght (much lower than an Olight S1R) that is quite practical and usable. It also has well spaced modes and Turbo with double click.
Memory is configurable, and so is thermal calibration. I normally use it with no memory to always start on Low mode.
The only thing it doesn’t have (not to be used with FC switches, of course) is a reverse mode operation as the Bistro UI. And a quicker way to check battery (a different set of modes needs to be chosen to have the “full” pack ).
Still, that is my favourite FW/driver at the time.
This is just thought! I hope it helps in some way 
What I would do with a driver like this (yours)? I’d probably use it in a 14500 light or a Convoy S2+ light, with single or triple emitter configuration!
Wish you good work on this!! 
I definitely wanna be in on this one so I’ll toss out some FW suggestions to qualify…
First a question, is the 10k resistor stacked on the regulators legs by design or was it an afterthought to solve some issue? Just curious as it’s very elegantly done. Is it a pull up / down?
[hopefully] my entry:
OK so since you mention dual switch lights I think that’s one thing we’re really lacking in BLF drivers / FW right now but more and more manufacturers are [finally] getting right. Make the tail clicky a simple on/off in whatever mode you were last in (please include the ability to memorize turbo or strobe) so that the light can be used for true momentary / signaling without putting it in some special mode that only works on one level and has to power cycle to exit. For a dual switch light I would prefer the modes (which are completely controlled by the side button) to be steps, not a ramp. Single click to advance, hold to step back. Maybe press press hold or just fast double click to a hidden strobe mode.
My preferred UI for a e-switch is a fast ramp with shortcuts to max and min and memory.
For clicky it’s 3-5 modes (user selectable) with a moonlight option.
These days I feel all lights should include some sort of battery function, the hobbiest in me would prefer full voltage readout (flashing ones and tenths) but a set number of flashes pertaining to remaining % is OK too or an AUX LED indicator would be more than sufficient if you had the spare IOs for it.
I’m gonna add one more really awesome side button FW feature that I came to love using tterev3’s 10f322 e-switch FW (in toykeeper repository but for PIC and written in assembly):
It’s a user defined preset level, basically you ramp to a brightness of your choice and do some button presses (maybe a quad click, I forget the exact action) and the light memories this level and you can change it to any other level by repeating the action at any time. Now you have a shortcut to this level with a double click at any time, come to think of it his shortcuts on thay UI are all really good. From on a double click takes you to your preset level, a hold takes you to turbo and a press hold takes you to moon.
Hope some of my ramblings qualify me! I’m in for either but the FAT-3 certinally sounds more interesting.
just starting out into the world of flashlight modding sooooooo please consider me for one of these to help fuel my future passion for modding 
Thanks Mike! It would be lovely to have these widely available. I wonder if thd trick of moving mosfet to mcpcb would work with them?
I like UIs that have no memory. This way when I start a light I always know what will be the first mode. Typically I want it to be low and that’s what most memoryless drivers provide.
Actually I especially like Emisar’s starting at 350 mA with a shortcut to moon, 350 mA is a very useful default, never blasting innocents too much, yet powerful enough to often be useful.”
I’ve been thinking a bit how to combine the predictability of no memory with the utility of being able to remember the last mode. I came up with several answers. None is universal really….
I’m a terrible reader so may have missed something. Are these 17mm in diameter?
I’m agreeing with most of what Ck has said but on modes a maximum of 4 not 5 would be my preference and the ability to turn memory on or off. If memory is off the choice to have the torch turn on in your chosen one of the four modes.
Nice work by the way Mike C. I believe I have mentioned before that the work your doing is real black magic. 
I’d like to have this kind off UI for example:
Used in an dual switch light the e-switch sets modes and the (forward) clicky just turns on the light. Easy to use, predictable and somewhat “tactical”.
Definately in for either of these drivers - nice work
As far as FW goes - the ability to switch between programmable dedicated modes & a ramp, with options for memory or high/low start.
Cheers 
Interesting work
My favorite firmware of the moment is on the Dr Jones H17F where you can choose the number of modes (though limited) but enough, the value of each mode configurable with a programmable hidden mode and also secondary group.
The only improvements on this to me would be faster acting thermal regulation, voltage readout in actual voltage and some more configuration steps.
I like set modes so I can know how
much time/ light I should get out of a given cell at a chosen mode.
Nice work Mike C and thanks for the chance at checking one out. I’m in.
+1 what some of the other commentors have mentioned, repeated below
Preference in a UI are for -
Battery Checking, Thermal Cut-off, etc. user configureable also good, and usually accessed through long series of key combinations (such as 10-18 taps etc)
This is what I want in a EDC UI
Something simple to this would be awesome.
I’m in. I maybe put one in an L2 with an Osram white flat. Good to adjust current!
My needs from a firmware that ramping smooth. Short click on/off. Be able to reach moon, last used mode and turbo from off with short cut. battery level blinking out.
Some good suggestions in here, thanks. I can do a lot of it already, but there are some neat suggestions in here I might be able to implement. Keep ’em coming!
For E-switch and dual switch lights I have the ability to enter config menu to change UI and other settings. From off I turn the light on and keep E-switch pressed and it will start blinking. Each blink is a step in the config menu. For example, release on first blink and you are in the “select UI” menu, release on second and you’re in “mode memory options” etc etc. I haven’t really come up with a satisfying way to do this with clicky switch though. I want it to be easy, but not so easy it will interfere with regular mode selection. I’m now thinking three clicks directly from cold start. If light is on longer than a second or so, window to enter setup is gone. Any other suggestions on this?
By design. I found that these regulators need a pull down resistor or they tend to flash on start-up before the enable pin is properly pulled down by MCU. First I was using 0402 resistors, but man do I hate those tiny little things so I decided to save board space and do it this way with 0603 instead. I did try putting the current set resistor this way too, the opposing pin to middle GND pin, but fitting both resistor ends on the middle GND pin proved to be too much of a hassle to assemble. One works nicely though, I put ’em on during initial assembly for reflow, no need to add after.
I have no idea how to make MCPCBs and the only one I know that does this is Led4Power. I could never make MCPCBs at that quality or price so they are only option I know of. I don’t know enough about his designs though. If they are high side mosfets on his MCPCBs I could probably use them with my current Slim-4 design. Maybe I should look into it, having the Slim-4 with an external mosfet for boost/full blast would be pretty neat!
Yes (it’s in the thread title 
) I remember your black magic comment, and my reply still stands, the stuff you do is magic to me! Your latest competition entry for example… Jaw dropping!
This is a very interesting driver concept!
Would you mind to share the digi-pot type you selected?
No problemo! I use the AD5160. I’ve found the 10K version provides best combo of resolution over range and lowest output for these particular regulators. I power them directly from an IO for lowest parasitic drain on E-switch lights.
Those drivers… are :LOVE: lovely!
UI suggestions:
Whilst I like ramping, I still prefer fixed modes because I can estimate run-time, and select a suitable brightness level, e.g. if I know it is going to have to last so many hours.
So make the ramp halt at fixed intervals, corresponding to modes. e.g. press and hold, torch ramps up to next level, then stops. Press and hold again, ramp up to next level. Brief press, then release and hold again, ramping reverses, this time stopping at each lower mode.
This is the Narsil, Anduril etc. ramping behaviour, except that they don’t halt at fixed intervals. Narsil does give a brief flicker as the threshold from 7135 only, to FET PWM s transitioned, but that’s not very helpful if you want a bit more power, but still to have confidence in your run time.
I’d like to see a quick and easy way to access batt-check. It’s a feature I use a lot, every time I pick up a torch that has it. It would be nice if the torch flickered a warning each time the voltage dropped to another level, corresponding to say 3/4, 1/2, 1/4 remaining (3 blinks, 2 blinks, 1 blink), then a continuous brief blink say once/minute below 1/8.
I’d like a “flashy” mode that turns the e-switch (or a forward clicky) into a momentary switch enabling me to e.g. signal morse, or an alpine distress signal, or just flash it around briefly and silently. Output level in this mode to be as memorised in normal operation.
Not sure how to get back out of this mode though. Perhaps only suitable for e-switch, where a battery disconnect could revert to normal operation.
And an energy efficient alpine distress mode that could last all night. 3 or 6 blinks, repeated every minute.
I like what you’ve done with the hardware. Fresh thinking.
Do you have a feel for what the thermal limitations will be, worst case, i.e. high cell voltage, low LED Vf, intermediate current setting ? Perhaps FAT-3 with direct drive FET will be more practical than SLIM-4. providing you have found a Pfet with a sufficiently good Rds-on.
I see the Consonance regulators automatically limit their junction temperature to a safe level by throttling back. Neat. Maybe good enough for overall thermal management of the torch if in close thermal contact with the shelf (e.g. silicone thermal rubber packing). Do they PWM nicely for the lowest levels ?
I’m guessing that you intend a spring bypass lead through the hole in the centre of the spring pad, then linked to the big + via on the other side.
Very interested to see how this develops.
He explained, with pictures, how it switches the high side.
Batt+ spring bypass goes to FET source, LED+ is fet drain. If you do the spring bypass to the led+ pad it will be true direct drive [only].
Thank you sir!
I have not done enough testing on this. The 1.5A CN5711 on the Slim-4 is a lot bigger than the 1A CN5710 regulators, but I have not really tested how the thermal throttling actually works on either of them. I intend on hooking one up without PCB just to test. I built a light with the Slim-4 and took it with me on my three month vacation. I didn’t notice any throttling if it did throttle, but will admit I didn’t have it on intermediate mode for a longer period though, max was maybe five minutes or so. The light is with Convoy M1 host and SST-40 LED.
To be honest, I don’t know all the characteristics to look for with FET choice but I think I picked one with a low enough Rds-on (Vishay Si7157DP).
I should hook it up and test that, but haven’t. Looks OK to the eye, but I might be too slow to pickup visible flickering.
The spring via is so the battery + wire can have direct contact with the + feed of the FET (Fat-3) or 1.5A regulator (Slim-4) on the other side. As Cereal_killer writes, these are high side regulators and spring bypass to LED+ will result on true direct drive.
Thanks, I understand perfectly how the high-side drive with the regulators or Pfet works, but mislead myself looking at the layout :person_facepalming:
Clearly the + and - vias are for the LED connection only.
That hole in the spring pad does still look useful for doing a spring bypass, if the other end of the wire is connected correctly. Or a stud is used, instead of a spring.
Those CN5710 regulators do look interesting. A refreshing change from so many basic 7135 designs.