WTB: Ultrafire F13 or clone

Anyone know where I can still buy an Ultrafire F13 or clone? Or if you want to sell me one. Thanks.

https://www.fasttech.com/product/5273900-ultrafire-f13-tx800-led-flashlight
https://us.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_5499.html

I checked those already. Those are out of stock

I have one host without reflector.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/WindFire-2000-Lumen-5-Modes-Cree-T6-XM-L-L2-LED-flashlight-26650-18650-batteries/113254659529?hash=item1a5e80f5c9:m:ml8DUTTMm3aY6-RAbW5m87Q:rk:14:pf:0

Thanks guys. I didn’t realize there’s a WindFire 2000 clone version. I’m buying it from Amazon for $15.99 :smiley:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OOER06K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2HKGMLXSPJBZN&psc=1

Sooooooo………Whatcha ya got planned for that there light? :slight_smile:

Planning to put a Quad 219B 9080 in there with Kiriba-Ru’s copper spacer. I like the finning on that light. Looks like it can sustain a good bit of output

The MT-12 looks like it’s the same thing.

https://www.fasttech.com/products/1649/10015804/4090400-ultrafire-mt-12-led-flashlight

One on AliExpress.

Very cool. Hadn’t seen that light in a while. It is one good looking light and I bet those fins will help out a lot. Keep us posted on that.

Wow I didn’t know there were so many clones of the same thing. The Aliexpress one is so cheap. Just wish it didn’t say XM-L2

I have a couple of modded F13.
Great host for high powered mods.

You’ll looooove the host, hate the LED/driver. :laughing:

Think it’s a 22mm driver, fits some decent replacements.

Checked, yeah, 22mm. Ultrafire F13 mod

Nice deep well, you can see it fits even a big honkin’ toroid in case you want a boost driver for a 6V/12V LED.

The emitter shelf is very thin. Barely there. This is pretty important. When they first came out they had a chunky screw-in pill, but nowadays they have an integral shelf which is far too thin to be effective.

Such a pity, because the driver cavity is massive, they could have made the shelf far thicker. Maybe someone messed up the dimensioning when programming the CNC, and they’ve been making them the same ever since ?

I actually sandwiched the shelf with a scrap copper MCPCB on the internal (driver) side, all screwed together through the shelf and into threads on the internal copper piece (otherwise the MCPCB just relies on pressure from the reflector to keep it in contact.) It seemed to help, but really the thermal path is not great, despite the impressive looking finning of the head. I suppose you could glue in a copper spacer for a triple, using thermally conductive material to transfer the heat sideways to the fins, instead of through the shelf, or machine the head for a press-fit. But if using a standard MCPCB the thermal path will always be constrained by the wafer-thin shelf.

As standard they come with no thermal paste, a poor driver and a counterfeit blueish LED on an Al MCPCB, which is actually quite bright and usable. And very soft anodising. If you like a “well worn” look, you’ll soon have it.

The driver output can be significantly improved by bypassing the stack of current limiting resistors, there is a pad already provided to relocate the LED wire to do this (which are very light gauge, and rather long). There is also a jumper position which, if you apply a solder splash, changes the mode groups. I forget exactly how, ISTR removes the flashies. The driver is a basic PWMed FET. Actually a dual FET SOIC package, with high on-resistance.

If you do pep it up, be sure to add some thermal paste under the MCPCB first. Ten minutes work, almost zero cost, and you can make a big difference.

That said, they can be fixed up nicely, and the reflector is quite decent, if you can set it up with a well matched LED, centring ring (they come set for XML, but you’d probably be wanting to change to the smaller XPL size), and correct size driver. ISTR Old Lumens was fond of them.

The reflector is quite deep and throwy, but not in the C8 class (too small in diameter, but takes 40mm accessories, which is convenient)

The tailswitch is actually pretty good, and they come apart easily, though you may need a hammer and punch or circlip pliers to unstick the retaining rings, the alloy used (no brass here) seems to stick to itself like Loctite. I’d apply a little anti-seize (I rub the threads on a block of beeswax) before re-assembly.

A well made C8 is better and more elegant though, just saying. Unless you just want a chunky 26650 torch that exudes ruffty-tuffty ness.

Oh that sucks. Having a thick shelf is important for heat transfer. But Kiriba-ru’s copper pill should help with it. I might put some thermal paste around the copper pill so heat can transfer to the fins.

I have one that came without the stupid etched labling. Unfortunately the seller sold out of them soon after.

I’m a sucker for the F13. I just ordered 2 more. I will be sticking a Xhp70.2 in my next one.