I can see the amber looking great in the green light, the green and gold of legend.
Welcome to insanity grand central, be forewarned that flashaholism is an addiction that gobbles up plastic and all the cash in your wallet at amazing speeds!
If you don’t like blue LED’s, then stay at 5000K or below. By 5700K the light is a bluish-white in appearance and above 6000K it’s very very noticeable. Many here like below 4000K, but that will be entirely up to you of course. You might find the lower Kelvin temperatures easier on your eyes.
If you can get Anduril flashed to your D4S it is easy to set the ceiling in Anduril so you can avoid heat issues with a simple lowered ceiling in the ramp. A double click to Turbo easily allows full use of the light when needed. Anduril also allows more complete thermal control through the firmware. AND it adds a candlelight mode and lightning mode that you would love to use, especially if you go with a warmer white tint to begin with. Candlelight flickers like a candle, you can set the brightness level easily and you can also set a 30 minute timer to turn it off, or double it to an hour… pretty neat having an electric candle…
Happy to have been able to help. You’re going to love your new flashlight, it’s an awesome smallish handful…
I know you’re new here so please just remember, ToyKeeper is the light of this forum, always look to her and you’ll never go wrong. That’s the pure and simple of it, right there.
I bought this light several months ago, and it seemed that I had pretty much found the Holy Grail of flashlights (at least for my main purpose, daily dog walks).
Unfortunately it started flickering pretty badly about a week or two ago - mainly just after turning it on, or after changing the brightness level. There is also considerable stuttering when I try ramping. Sometimes it won’t ramp at all, or it will just jump from one level to the other instead of ramping smoothly, and it will also flicker on those occasions. It seems to be getting worse, and I am worried that it will soon become unusable.
Is there any remedy for this? Apologies if this has been asked before, as I have not got the time to read through all the comments on this post.
There is a known bug with the switch in firmware when the presses have bouncing or something simmilar.
It may sound strange, but is there a possibility, that you do not press the button “properly”? For example, the bug mentioned before can only be reproduced by hand by pushing the button “strange” e.g. from an angle and very soft.
In that case, the light registers multiple button presses where it triggers a different action than expected.
Just FYI, but cyan is not blue, although between most cameras’ poor white balance settings and possibly your computer/phone monitor’s color profile miscalibration, it may appear blueish in the photos.
Besides making sure everything that should be tight is tight and all the threads are clean, consider putting a dab of conductive gel on the theads and on the tip and base of the battery.
Sometimes the springs may be making intermittent contact if the metal was cut at an angle, so make sure that contact is smooth and meets the battery at a broad flat position, not at a knife edge or pinpoint.
Cyan is halfway between green and blue on the color wheel. It’s primarily seen as a blue family and is a key ink cartridge in many printers. It is a mix of half green and half blue, but that makes it 75% blue as green itself is a blend of blue and yellow.
Nothing has changed in the way that I press the button, but I will follow the suggestions and report back. Thanks.
EDIT:
That was easier than expected - everything working nicely now, and I can no longer reproduce the flickering. Thanks for the advice - it really is a fantastic light, and I couldn’t wish for more (I’ve got the XPL-Hi version in NW).
Yes, we can offer that, please place the order on the site without choosing the LED & tint, then leave us a note about 3000K SST-20, customs order may take one week to ship.
Thanks Hank! That’s awesome! I’m going to place an order! I’ve been asking for someone to make some 3000k, thanks for this!
Gregor, the CRI on the SST20 4000k is beatifil. It rivals the best 219b R9080, and runs cooler . It should have a wide hotspot too. Just a wonderful emitter. otherwise get an XPL-HI if you want throw…Hanks’s 3A tint is killer good and clean! I should say XPl-HI my favorite in this torch currently all around…the kcd of the SST20 is also impressive; can’t wait to see the comparisons from out in the wild come in!
