FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

[JasonWW]

@lionheart_2281

Hasn’t been THAT long, only a year and a half

So you keep repeating over and over and over.
It’s tiresome and I’m pretty sure the volunteers who stepped in to take over this project don’t appreciate the little jabs and constant reminders.

[MascaratumB]

@JasonWW

@lionheart_2281

Hasn’t been THAT long, only a year and a half

So you keep repeating over and over and over.
It’s tiresome and I’m pretty sure the volunteers who stepped in to take over this project don’t appreciate the little jabs and constant reminders.

Better forget mate, it’s just another one to the list… :person_facepalming:
Fortunately other people come here to say positive stuff and to keep us breathing while waiting! :arrow_right:

[mk23]

Please add me to the interest list for 1 light.

A bit late to the party but i really appreciate all of your works to design the most perfect light. Thank you in advance.

[Nev]

XPLHI is good for me , I couldn’t careless about the other LEDs , lol.

[Jerommel]

@ToyKeeper

The plan for the surface finish is a dark grey anodized aluminum. After three tries to do a clear-anodized finish, it still didn’t work out, so the plan is to do a classy dark grey which is both easier and more durable.

Aww… That’s a shame.
“Didn’t work”?
That’s strange.

[BlueSwordM]

I asked Digikey.

They said stocking a favorable tint bin will take quite a long lead time, as always.

[Tixx]

@SKV89

I don’t mind either Option 2 or 3 but definitely not Option 1.

Please do not use any of the LH351D currently available in the FW3A. They are all too green. The groupbuys were T6 and T7 bins that were supposed to be at or below the BBL but in reality, they are all much above the BBL resulting in the yellow or green tint as shown in the Bob McBob’s comparison TK posted earlier. Please note that the few E21A 4000k flashlights I have don’t look anywhere that rosy and the LH351D is even more green than in the pics. Really hope Neal can source T1, T2, T3, T4 bin. I don’t mind waiting. I rather have perfect emitters to begin with so no need to mod.

Another option besides the Samsungs are the Luminus SST-20-W 95CRI. The 4000k sold on Kaidomain is the FB4 bin, which is far above the BBL. Fireflies is using the FA3 bin in the ROT66 and that was reported to have some slight green and requires minus green filter to perfect. If Neal can source the FA1, FA4, FD1, FD4, it should give the Nichia 9080 appearance but with better performance vs 219B.

I like the above, but from the 3 choices, mine is - Make the XP-L HI model now, and do the LH351D lights later.

[ActiveAl]

@Jerommel

@ToyKeeper

The plan for the surface finish is a dark grey anodized aluminum. After three tries to do a clear-anodized finish, it still didn’t work out, so the plan is to do a classy dark grey which is both easier and more durable.

Aww… That’s a shame. “Didn’t work”? That’s strange.

Update: Embedded image removed. Sorry.

[Moomoomao]

XP-L HI model now, LH351D lights later

Thank you guys for all the work you put into this project!

[nvanlaar]

@ToyKeeper

The plan for the surface finish is a dark grey anodized aluminum. After three tries to do a clear-anodized finish, it still didn’t work out, so the plan is to do a classy dark grey which is both easier and more durable.

Like a D4 rough grey or the Convoy/Jaxman smooth grey?

[Schoki]

Please add me to the list for one FW3A!

[Firelight2]

I’m happy about the grey anodizing on the light. That’s probably my favorite color for an aluminum anodized light.

[toddcshoe]

That should look really good in a darker grey, like gunmetal grey would be phenomenal.

[shirnask]

@Tech25

[quote=ToyKeeper :+1:

• LH351D 4000K 90CRI (ideally T1/T2/T3/T4 bin)

This is what I am in for, take your time for the best tint. I have one or two other lights to tide me over until then.
[/quote]

:+1: :+1: :+1:

[Jerommel]

So much effing around with this project…
After 1½ years of thinking about everything until it hurts, they suddenly decide it will be dark grey?
I have a clear anodized Lumintop HLAAA which is very well done, so WTH “didn’t work” ??

I’m not sure what the ape means though, but that pic has one of the longest location addresses i’ve ever seen.

[Tom_Tom]

@Jerommel

I’m not sure what the ape means though, but that pic has one of the longest location addresses i’ve ever seen.

That’s not an address, it is the actual image code.

Very naughty to do that, if everyone did the BLF server would soon grind to a halt.

Images should be linked elsewhere, not embedded. I too know how to do it, but never have.

[Jerommel]

@Tom Tom

@Jerommel

I’m not sure what the ape means though, but that pic has one of the longest location addresses i’ve ever seen.

That’s not an address, it is the actual image code.

Very naughty to do that, if everyone did the BLF server would soon grind to a halt.

Images should be linked elsewhere, not embedded. I too know how to do it, but never have.

Aha, i see.

[contactcr]

@Jerommel

So much effing around with this project… :person_facepalming:
After 1½ years of thinking about everything until it hurts, they suddenly decide it will be dark grey?
I have a clear anodized Lumintop HLAAA which is very well done, so WTH “didn’t work” ??

I’m not sure what the ape means though, but that pic has one of the longest location addresses i’ve ever seen.

You bring up an excellent point. However, according to Lumintop that is nickel electroplating. I guess it still retains machining marks and adds protection but without lockout, yes? Could be a compromise…

[Jerommel]

Nickel plating?
Really?
Nickel is usually ‘warm white’ -ish.
But you’re right.
Threads look coated to but can’t lock out.

I have another very well clear coated AAA light by the way, a silver Olight i3E.
Seems different from anodizing too.
It’s on there very good though, whatever it is.

[Jerommel]

After a closer look, the HLAAA is indeed slightly ‘warm white’ tinted, unlike the i3E, which almost looks like stainless steel.