XHP50.2 J4 4000k output test by Texas_Ace - Really impressive improvement from the last gen

[quote=The_Driver]

[quote=EasyB]

[quote=The_Driver]

[quote=Texas_Ace]

[quote=pommie]

This is what I was wondering about. Is it possible the the 50.2 could do 5000 lumen and 800+K Lux? I think that I remember reading somewhere that the 50.2 runs a liitle cooler than the 70.2. If this is true, the 50.2 might be a great option in the GT.

It looks like it might be time to learn how to do what you guys seem to do so easily. Can you guys recommend the gear I will need to get started? I would rather get the right/best stuff the first time.

It sure would be nice to have TA or one of you other guys just down the street!

Lucky for you what you need is not a lot. The basic tools of the trade are :

soldering station with temperature control
hot air reflow station (mine is a combo unit with the soldering iron)
Reasonably good DMM
magnifying goggles / heatgear, this makes it way easier to see what you are doing
Fine tweezers

The rest are the mics parts like wires, switches, springs and the like that you will figure out over time.

The soldering station hakko makes some good stuff, I use a china knock-off with good results until a few days ago when the heating element in the iron died. I have a replacement ordered now. Still I got over 1.5 years out of it for $40, well worth the investment.

Thanks TA. Looks like I have some shopping to do. :slight_smile:

Nice testing work once again TA! :beer:

[quote=WaylonJennings]

[quote=The_Driver]

[quote=EasyB]

[quote=The_Driver]

[quote=Texas_Ace]

The XHP50.2 will only run cooler in a direct drive setup because it has a slightly higher Vf which results in less current.

In a regulated setup the XHP70.2 will run cooler because it is more efficient (more Lumens and a lower Vf).

Has anyone tried the sliced 50.2 in the GT yet?

Not that I know of, it is hard to find an mcpcb for it.

Thank you for this test.
I’m a newbie and i’m wondering; why is there such a big difference to the manufacturer data sheet values?

Datasheet says on Page 7:
5,65V @ 1750mA (Tj=85°C)

Your test:
5,67V @ 0,75mA

Where does the difference come from?

There is a range on all the values from Cree, generally they are around 7% but it also varies with other factors as well such as tint, CRI, bin ect. Higher CRI LED’s for example generally have lower Vf.

Each reel will have a different Vf, sometimes the changes are minor, others they are very noticeable.

I am thinking about using the 3V XHP50.2 in the Q8. And to keep it safe I would use AWG 22 with 10-15cm length.
AWG22 should have 0,00548ohm resistance at 10cm length. For 48Amps, it would be a voltage drop of 0,26V.

What do you think about it? How long would you make the AWG22?
Is it necessary to bridge the battery springs to protect them from overheating and melting?

Why don’t you just go for Luxeon V’s then? You will get close to 7000 lumens with the stock setup, you will get a much nicer beam, and around 2min turbo before it gets too hot. I did it with mine and it’s still a USABLE and very bright light! With spring bypasses you should in theory get 8000 lumens with a total of around 25Amps. And you will have more throw than the XHP50.2 emitters. To me that’s important because the Q8 already has a very usable spill.

If your only concern is not burning out the LED’s then no worries, they can handle even full power with heavy wire as others have shown.

The only reason to use thinner wire is to reduce the output / heat. Although in this case it will not help much, it will still get stupid hot, stupid fast.

hi
can i run a xhp50.2 continuously at 5 ampere and 6 volts for many hours with a very very good heatsink?is that harmful for led lifespan?

As long as you are using a DTP copper mcpcb with a good heatsink that should be ok.

The lifespan will be reduced compared to running it at spec but we are talking 10,000’s of hours here, so doubtful you will notice and you can just replace it if it dies at that point.

Do you happen to have the 3v version specs ?

What specs do you need?
Output is basically the same except the amperage is double. Plus this 3v version is more durable and can run fine on FET drivers.

Yes it’s a great emitter I have a few running at 18ish amps on mosfet drivers was just looking for a chart didn’t know it was quite as simple as just doubling the amps

That is what they do in the datasheets, they only measure one voltage and then just calculate the specs for the others.

That’s what I do as well. 12v version, cut amps in half. :smiley: