Besides making sure everything that should be tight is tight and all the threads are clean, consider putting a dab of conductive gel on the theads and on the tip and base of the battery.
Sometimes the springs may be making intermittent contact if the metal was cut at an angle, so make sure that contact is smooth and meets the battery at a broad flat position, not at a knife edge or pinpoint.
Cyan is halfway between green and blue on the color wheel. It’s primarily seen as a blue family and is a key ink cartridge in many printers. It is a mix of half green and half blue, but that makes it 75% blue as green itself is a blend of blue and yellow.
Nothing has changed in the way that I press the button, but I will follow the suggestions and report back. Thanks.
EDIT:
That was easier than expected - everything working nicely now, and I can no longer reproduce the flickering. Thanks for the advice - it really is a fantastic light, and I couldn’t wish for more (I’ve got the XPL-Hi version in NW).
Yes, we can offer that, please place the order on the site without choosing the LED & tint, then leave us a note about 3000K SST-20, customs order may take one week to ship.
Thanks Hank! That’s awesome! I’m going to place an order! I’ve been asking for someone to make some 3000k, thanks for this!
Gregor, the CRI on the SST20 4000k is beatifil. It rivals the best 219b R9080, and runs cooler . It should have a wide hotspot too. Just a wonderful emitter. otherwise get an XPL-HI if you want throw…Hanks’s 3A tint is killer good and clean! I should say XPl-HI my favorite in this torch currently all around…the kcd of the SST20 is also impressive; can’t wait to see the comparisons from out in the wild come in!
That makes sense. The emitter of the SST-20 is smaller than the XP-L emitter => more throw
Also, the SST-20 costs around 0,60€ in quantities of 1000 while an XP-L Hi is around 2,50€ in quantities of 1000.
That alone is a difference in material costs. But please don’t ask me why the difference is 4,50€ per emitter.