OSRAM CSLNM1.TG & CULNM1.TG 1mm², CSLPM1.TG & CULPM1.TG 2mm²

Wow, that’s nice :slight_smile:
Do you know if the memory-function on this drivers can be deactivated?

There must be some way, but better wait for at least some expert to chime in…

Cheers

Well, I doubt that my measrurements are combarable only for myself… Maybe have to think little better way to do those.
But compared throw and it was pretty same than EmisarD1S, was hard to say which was better.

What's all of this C8 gossiping? Does this mean the white flats are not well suited for its reflector? Or WTF?

Dedomed XP-G2 at 4.5A does 170Kcd in a C8? How is that? As far as I know an XP-L HI at 6A will maybe do 90Kcd, doesn't it? It's hard for me to believe the XP-G2 doing that much better against the XP-L HI 5700K in a Sofirn C8T.

Cheers

Throw is from the led /reflector size and led intensity/mm2 emitting surface. A dedomed XP-G2 has higher intensity/mm1 than XP-L HI. that is all.
See my measurement tables. You will find over 200 measurement and it has dedomed XP-G2 and osram white flats and etc.
My C8 with dedomed XP-G2 made 151,7 kcd from 850 lumens. The second best is 136 kcd with dedomed SST40 in a C8. but with 2000 lumens.

I wasn’t trying to start a competition about who’s C8 is the best. I’m just trying to understand each report of a measurement of this new LED so we can know it’s capabilities.

Of course comparison of different v people’s results is made difficult because of different measurement conditions and equipment.

… i.e. the hotspot of these leds in a reflector light is around 6000K, at which colour temperature all budget luxmeters read too much, think between 5% and 12%.

Barkuti mentioned the LD25, which is cheap.
Ordered some low resistance resistors to mod them up to 5 Amperes.

Yeah, the forgotten art of stacking 7135’s :slight_smile:
Old school. I still have some 80 pieces of Raptor Claws though.
But those things always eat at least 150 mV, which is a shame.
And then there’s the audible PWM, which i have grown to despise…
Not to mention the war between retaining rings and the 7135’s on the battery side…
The 3 modes of the Nanjg’s are well spaced though. :+1:
Better than the LD25.

Barkuti mentioned the LD25… And I can see they are from Simon?

IF so just contact that guy and he will do 10 plus order for free…

I ordered more than 200 drivers from Simon (I had special wishes without any amc 7135 current regulator on nanjg AK-47 C1 for making Djozz fet driver) for ultra budget price.

About that LD 25…

So basically:

- Aligator clamps for positive DMM wire clamped to spring

- Negative should be classic DMM wire probe touching driver outer ring?

  • With small wire we are raising/reducing current

But all that can’t be done with classic DMM? :smiley: Right? We need constant current power supply for that?


LD-25 available at Simon's store and FastTech.

(I think) Simon filmed the LD-25 current output adjustment video with a precision power supply with voltmeter and amperimeter because of simplicity: he uses the supply in constant voltage mode, making sure there's enough input voltage headroom to overcome the drop in the supply to driver wire and contact resistances, and reads the current pulled in the supply's amperimeter. If, for example, you determine input wires plus alligator clips and contacts have around 0.2Ω of resistance and you aim for 5A at the driver, make sure you add ΔV = I × Rpath = 5A × 0.2Ω = 1V to the bare minimum voltage the LD-25 needs at its input to deliver the current at the emitter. Failure to do this will result in the current capping at some point, if this happens just raise the input voltage accordingly and try again.

If no precision power supply with amperimeter display available a multimeter can be used amidst in amperimeter mode, just make sure you raise input voltage enough. ;-)

Cheers :-)

Barkuti, that video is of the previous model LD25.
But i think Kaidomain has the old version in stock.
I don’t know if the same trick works on the newest version, but the PCB layout it very different.

Mmmkay, I have an LD-25 new version from FastTech laying around and a precision power supply with amperimeter. Will check it out soon, just a little bit of patience.

Cheers ^:)

If I need precision power supply with amperimeter than LD-25 goes to super expensive driver category…

No one said you “need” a precision power supply. You need a way to know how much current is the driver pulling, this can also be achieved with a clamp meter somewhere.

Messing with the sense resistor is possible too.

Cheers ^:)

Ok…

Than instead of precision power supply with amperimeter please instruct us how to do that with DMM and clamp meter.

I’ll pay you a beer :beer: or even couple of them :slight_smile:

Pretty please…

With a DMM and/or clamp meter?

Wellp, some sort of voltage source is still required, one at least capable of our desired emitter current output and input, with enough voltage headroom for wire and contact voltage drops. A standard 5V 5A power supply may do, or maybe some sort of battery holder gizmo with 2S cells in a low state of charge and some :-) long wires. Heatsinking the driver inside an S2+ pill is a good idea just in case we do not have full input voltage control. If we use a multimeter for current measurement place it somewhere in the circuit, maybe with alligator clamps between spring and voltage source. If clamp meter place it around some connecting wire.

Android's ElectroDroid application has a handy voltage drop calculator where you can set wire lenght, gauge, current, etc.

Cheers ^:)

Osram 1mm2 and 2mm2 (bottom) vs shaved xp-l and xm-l2 and xhp35hi


:wink: just to compare the emitting area

Maxtoch M2 Archer with new Osram 2mm

1100m to the church.

180 kCd measured form 3m, from further distance should be more.

Is the corona now oval instead of circular?

So if the the oem specs are to be believed for the Archer M2 (600m beam distance = 90kcd), you have AT LEAST doubled the candela.
The Archer M1 uses a de-domed SST-40 and oem specs are 800m / 160kcd so compared to that the results are a little less impressive.
Can I assume the Archer uses some sort of FET / direct current driver and you are still using it? What battery are you using? Can you take tail cap current measurements?

Thanks,