I donāt think these donāt look like the same bodies/tubesā¦ where did the first image come from?
Oh well, sorry for that.
The tortureās going to end my friend. Letās make a deal: PM me your mailing address, and my MaxToch SN6X-2X(Vn) will be on its way to you.
Everythingās on me, Merry Christmas!
Please add me for one! 
P.S.: The light looks great!
Agreed, quite different. Yet more questions than answers. Again.
Guessing that is only TKās proto2. It seems we are now up to at least 3 , or even 4, and so it still seems to keep on evolving, at least in some peopleās dreams.
Yeah but that wasnāt all i wrote:
So it seems the warmest tint is somewhere in the middle of the range (from very low to very high).
Okay, iāll look for that among the esoteric graphs iām not initiated for. 
Gimp rocks. :+1:
On my list of things to learn
GIMP is very powerful, but I couldn't figure it out.
I use IrfanView for my modest image editing needs.
Photoshop is a lot easier. If you actually want to get things done, and are prepared to pay, or otherwise, obtain it.
Irfan View does the basic jobs and is lightweight. But Faststone Image viewer is far more powerful (basically a clone of ACDSee, my mainstay, and worth the money)
I like Photoshop.
I haven't learned many tricks to use it, but it is more intuitive than GIMP.
We seem to be drifting off again, how did that happen
Slow news day ?
Not complaining.
One of my favorite things about BLF is that being off-topic is usually not a problem.
Drifting off is at least half the fun here. And if you pay attention sometimes you learn something interesting
Just for the records:
The cut away is from prototype #0
Changes I know:
- tapered design
- moved O-ring(s)
- some diameter increase
Affinity Photo is quite good for non pro photoshop users.
- one time ca. 55ā¬ instead of a subscription
- nearly all tools the same
- similar workflow
Reviews are on YouTube
Edit: Some reviews about early beta version
Iāve never heard of Affinity Photo. But I just looked it up and it does seem nice. Iāve been a GIMP user for years. Iāve never used Photoshop. Iām not anything like a professional user, but I have learned how to do some moderately advanced things with GIMP. Photoshop and Affinity Photo still have quite a few very advanced features that Gimp lacks.
Iāve spent time with a bunch of image editors, and have been using GIMP and Photoshop since the 1990s. I even made my own paint program / image editor once, designed mostly around demoscene effects. But I find GIMP suits me best, and is the most intuitive for me. Part of it is because itās trivially easy to assign arbitrary keyboard shortcuts, part is because it lets my window manager do its job instead of trying to manage everything itself in a single window, and part is just that it has the types of tools I want.
In the past, Photoshop was a lot better if you needed color spaces other than greyscale or RGB, but GIMP recently overhauled its engine to fix that sort of issue. It always had a wider and more advanced variety of image-processing tools, often getting brand new stuff from SIGGRAPH long before other programs, but its core architecture has also gotten a lot more mature over time.
I wouldnāt use either one for diagrams or for painting though. There are better tools for those tasks, like Inkscape for diagrams and Krita for painting. GIMP is mostly designed for photo editing.
Itās hard to go wrong with any decent image editor though. There is no shortage of genuinely good imaging software these days.
About the FW3A thoughā¦ something Iāve been pondering is whether to try to fit in a factory reset function somewhere.
This would reset everything to defaults except the thermal sensor calibration. For that, it would act as if the user went through thermal config mode and calibrated it to 21 C. Maybe thatās not the exact temperature of everyoneās rooms, but it should be a lot closer than an uncalibrated attiny85.
Normally Iād put it on āhold e-switch while connecting power, then continue to hold for a few secondsā. However, the FW3A canāt do that because the switch doesnāt get physically connected until after power.
So maybe it could be on some other action which is hard to do by accident. Maybe 10 clicks from off and hold the 10th?
If it fits, the overall UI for it would be:
- Loosen the tube, hold the e-switch, then tighten the tube while still holding the switch. (or click 10 times and hold the 10th press)
- Starting at a low level, the light flashes an increasingly intense warning stutter.
- Let go to cancel the reset, or otherwise keep holding.
- After ~5 seconds, the light makes a bright flash, resets everything to defaults, then smoothly fades back to off.
At least, thatās how the āself destruct modeā works on the lightsaber UI I made. It probably doesnāt need to be as fancy in a flashlight. In particular, it probably shouldnāt get very bright because that could affect the temperature calibration. Regardless though, Iāve been pondering whether it should be included.
The Anduril I flashed onto my D4 goes into a lock on if you click 10 plus clicks from on. I would consider this a good thing, must power cycle to exit.
I donāt see myself using a factory reset, but it might be good for some.
I think that was a big in an older version where too long click sequences just lock up the whole light.
That should be fixed by now