Luminus SST-20-W 4000 K CRI95 color and output test

Just put a minus green filter over it to better your tint and cri.

CCT aside, what are the Pro’s and Con’s of this SST20 LED vs the older 219b 9080?

My understanding so far… did I miss anything?

219b:
+Best tint and closest to BBL
-Cannot be driven very hard in a direct drive light.
-Very slightly less bright/efficient than SST20

SST20:
+smaller die = better throw/intensity
+very slightly more bright/efficient over 219b 9080
+can handle higher current in direct drive lights
-Tint is above BBL

Which one do you prefer and why?

The problem is you lose 17% to 20% output with the Lee Filter, which means the SST-20 will output a bit less than the 219B 9080. So in that case, might as well just get the 219B 9080.

Can anybody explain or know how a multi emitter SST-20 light will perform in a constant current Boost driver vs a 219C that has a lower Vf?

Is that loss across the emitter's spectrum or just in the targeted color range?

High CRI and minuscule tint shift is great but it seems to take high current numbers to reach just a hare under 1100 lumens. 6.7A at near 4 volts (26W+). I don’t really see the purpose over other emitters (Nichia, XML’s, XPG).

This is good to know.
So it’s like the 351D.
Shaving makes it shift a little towards red.

But the LH351D has no bond wires so you can shave it right onto the phosfor resulting in a larger tint shift and higher throw increase.

I had an LH351D 4000K CRI90+ with solder remnants on its pads after an aborted reflow. Decided to give it a try as pretty sure the emitter was in good condition, and thus I grabbed it by the dome with my flat nose pliers and applied heat gently with my iron's flat tip at ≈210°C and… voilà! Instantly dedomed too:

Cheers ^:)

Where did you apply the heat?

Thanks for your reply.

I am interested in the use of this LED in two specific lights, the Noctigon Meteor M43 and the D4S.

The M43 uses a Boost driver, meanwhile the D4S uses a combination of Linear + Fet.

If I understand correctly, the Boost driver will benefit from a lower Vf LED and thus be much more efficient with a Nichia over the SST20?
Meanwhile, in a Linear + Fet, I have been reading that a low Vf LED like the Nichia pulls alot of current and expels alot of its energy in heat. Does that mean the SST20 will be more efficient in a light like the D4S using a linear Driver and Fet?

Apologies for all the questions, still a little unclear.

@Pavlo, the difference in efficiency between the 219C and SST-20 in a regulated light is small. Knowing the SST-20 has better tint, more throw and slightly better color quality, I would get the SST-20 in this case.

In a FET light, the Nichia 219C version will actually be brighter because of slightly higher efficiency and more current. However, it will get hotter.

I would get the SST-20 again here.

Where the solder remnants were, my intention was to remove the solder from the emitter pads (it had a lot).

Thanks BlueSwordM.

Math aside, your explanation sums it up nicely.

I put 4000k SST-20s in my D4S, replacing the Nichia 219C’s that I bought it with. It had exactly the result I wanted; the tint is better (less green), and the beam is less floody that it was.

Cool! Did you notice the drop in output or does the tighter beam give you the impression that it’s brighter? Also, how’s the color rendering compared to 219c? Big improvement?

I think the output should be within 5-10% of stock, not enough difference to to notice. The tighter beam is easy to notice, and the intensity and resulting throw is obvious, too.

As for the color rendering, I wouldn’t say its obviously different than the 219c, both are so much better than the average Cree 70+ CRI emitter. I only have one D4s, so I can’t do side by side comparisons. One thing stood out for me yesterday, though. I got an nichia Astrolux S43S. On its own, the tint seemed fine. But, when I decided to compare the output and intensity side by side with my SST-20 D4s it was obvious how green tinted the Nichia’s were. This was true even at lower output levels (the SST-20s seem to get much rosier at max power). The Nichia’s are 5000K, while the SST-20s are 4000K, but still…

I highly recommend replacing the 219cs in the D4S with SST-20s. I’ll probably do it in my S43S, if I decide it’s worth the trouble.

I ordered some of these from KD and I plan to make a high CRI D4. This will be my first high CRI light.

I don’t have a strong opinion regarding the greenness or rosiness of a tint, but I’m looking forward to seeing the color rendering advantages. The only time I’ve really noticed bad color rendering is with cree 1A cool tint that seems to not have enough red-like colors.

Thanks for the feedback and additional input!
Excited to try these SST20’s out.

This is my first triple, with a Convoy S2+ Desert Tan host, MTN FET+7135 Driver, triple SST-20 4000K and a Carclo 10507.

The coloring rendering ability of these emitters are excellent, but when comparing it side by side with my friend’s 219B SW40 R8000, my tint appears to be yellow, and of course, his tint is noticeably rosier. I’m not sure how much my AR-coated lens affect the tint, it’s the type of coating with some sort of red reflection rather then the more common purple/ blue one. I tried comparing the tints with and without the AR-coated lens, but I hardly notice any difference.