wow that is very good specs for a 4000k emitter. almost 1400 lumens is accurate also ?
It seems most have gotten about 1250 lumen for the CW. I would expect the NW to be a bit less. Assuming you use a good high drain battery.
You have to take all lumens ratings with a grain of salt. 
okay that sucks komeko u tricked me 
i thought it was actual lumens he got from his.
I have not fooled anyone, this is my measurement of my art. They coincide with the measurements of my other flashlights. Of course, this is not a laboratory, so only information is loose. It depends on you what you do with it.
okay but if not accurate i dont understand why post numbers that doesnt represent actual ?
As I said, take all lumen readings with a grain of salt. Nobody has “actual”. All of us here at BLF are just hobbiests. We are not testing labs. Some people might measure 1100 lm, some might measure 1600 lm. It depends on the device they measure with and how their device is calibrated.
Based on it drawing 5.5A on turbo and my TA Lumen Tube measuring 1240 lm, I would definitely say it meets or exceeds the factory 1200 lm rating. No worries about that. I also measured 148Kcd = 769m which is above the 135kcd spec. This is using a Samsung 30Q. Here are all my measurements if your interested.
Yes i understand, was just asking, i realize even cw maybe not topps 1300 lumens, its a nice light i really enjoy using mine.
Differences in measurements result from many reasons. Not only from the methodology but also from the differences between the various models. It can be affected by the ambient temperature, the battery used, the centering of the LED …
GTmini has a FET driver and the internal resistivity of the elements is very important here. The manufacturer gives 17W and 4.5A. My GTmini with Samsung 30Q received 5.8A (clamp meter). This is one of many possible reasons that the end result may vary. Measurements are made with the X-Rite Eye one Pro calibrator which is more accurate than most cheap light meters. Thanks to this, I can also precisely specify the color of light which in my opinion is one of the most important features. If someone thinks this is not very reliable, then he has such a right, but to call me a liar?
I think Mortuus was just confused with 2 different lumen measurements. No big deal. Nobody is lying.
Tell me about the eye one Pro. Is it just for measuring color or does it also measure lumens?
This is a calibrator for monitors:
https://www.xrite.com/categories/calibration-profiling/i1display-pro
Thank you very much komeko. This thing holds its own against my 5000K M2X mod.
I am very impressed with it.
What size driver / MCPCB does this light use?
20mm MCPCB, 17mm driver.
Thank you.
It says it has a 4.5A FET driver. Does this mean direct drive or constant current. If I put an Osram KW 1mm in it will i need to replace the driver? and will it take an acebeam 3100 protected battery?
It’s a FET driver so the amperage it’s pulling will vary based on the battery and led.
It fit the longest cell I had which was 69.5mm.
Details are here.
You can post random links on this forum. You will get reported as a spammer.
For some reason the switch on my sample was malfunctioning. It would not detect presses and sometimes it would detect two instead of one. I loosened the bezel a tiny bit and it’s working fine now. I also opened and closed the bezel yesterday so maybe that’s what caused the problem. Has anyone else experienced this?
The switch bezel? If so, sometimes the clearances on the wires solder pads is very tight - might have been a partial grounding on the exposed wires at the pads.
I mean the head. I took the reflector out and put it back in. I didn’t tightness it more than it already was but it made the button/driver behave strangely for some reason. After loosening the bezel a bit it’s working fine.