As I said, take all lumen readings with a grain of salt. Nobody has “actual”. All of us here at BLF are just hobbiests. We are not testing labs. Some people might measure 1100 lm, some might measure 1600 lm. It depends on the device they measure with and how their device is calibrated.
Based on it drawing 5.5A on turbo and my TA Lumen Tube measuring 1240 lm, I would definitely say it meets or exceeds the factory 1200 lm rating. No worries about that. I also measured 148Kcd = 769m which is above the 135kcd spec. This is using a Samsung 30Q. Here are all my measurements if your interested.
Differences in measurements result from many reasons. Not only from the methodology but also from the differences between the various models. It can be affected by the ambient temperature, the battery used, the centering of the LED …
GTmini has a FET driver and the internal resistivity of the elements is very important here. The manufacturer gives 17W and 4.5A. My GTmini with Samsung 30Q received 5.8A (clamp meter). This is one of many possible reasons that the end result may vary. Measurements are made with the X-Rite Eye one Pro calibrator which is more accurate than most cheap light meters. Thanks to this, I can also precisely specify the color of light which in my opinion is one of the most important features. If someone thinks this is not very reliable, then he has such a right, but to call me a liar?
It says it has a 4.5A FET driver. Does this mean direct drive or constant current. If I put an Osram KW 1mm in it will i need to replace the driver? and will it take an acebeam 3100 protected battery?
For some reason the switch on my sample was malfunctioning. It would not detect presses and sometimes it would detect two instead of one. I loosened the bezel a tiny bit and it’s working fine now. I also opened and closed the bezel yesterday so maybe that’s what caused the problem. Has anyone else experienced this?
The switch bezel? If so, sometimes the clearances on the wires solder pads is very tight - might have been a partial grounding on the exposed wires at the pads.
I mean the head. I took the reflector out and put it back in. I didn’t tightness it more than it already was but it made the button/driver behave strangely for some reason. After loosening the bezel a bit it’s working fine.