Great info thanks. Zircon filter reduces output by almost 20% though, so that negates the 10% flux bin advantage over the J4 flux bin of the KD and Fireflies SST-20 4000k
I actually prefer the 70 CRI Samsung LH351D in 5000K, W6 binning… it’s the most powerful I have found and the color is closest to pure white I’ve seen, preferable to the 80 CRI 5000K in my opinion. My D4S has these and runs at 5834 lumens rested (start value)
[literally took it off the shelf and measured it right before posting]
Hank was so kind to tell me the bin codes for the SST-20 5.000K and 6.500K. I took the liberty to write down how to understand those bin codes. However, I also stumbled upon different flux and tint bins in the same overall bin code. Maybe someone with more experience can explain what that's supposed to mean.
D4S with SST-20 3.000K
SST-20-W30H-A120-J2302(J4-VH-HD2)
► W30H: W = White, 30 = 3000K, H = 95CRI
► A120: Soldering Pad Type A, 120° viewing angle
► J2302: J2 = flux bin (min. 102 lm @ 350mA, 25°C), 302 = tint bin (HD2)
► VH = minimum Vf with 2.5V
D4S with SST-20 4.000K
SST-20-W40H-A120-J4402(J5-VH-FB4)
► W40H: W = White, 40 = 3000K, H = 95CRI
► A120: Soldering Pad Type A, 120° viewing angle
► J4402: J4 = flux bin (min. 118 lm @ 350mA, 25°C), 402 = tint bin (FB4)
► VH = minimum Vf with 2.5V
D4S with SST-20 5.000K
SST-20-WDS-A120-L2501(L3-VK-DA)
► WDS: W = White, D = Daylight White, S = 65CRI
► A120: Soldering Pad Type A, 120° viewing angle
► L2501: L2 = flux bin (min. 172 lm @ 350mA, 25°C), 501 = tint bin (DA)
► VK = minimum Vf with 2.9V
D4S with SST-20 6.500K
SST-20-WCS-A120-L3652(L3-VL-BA)
► WCS: W = White, C = Cool White, S = 65CRI
► A120: Soldering Pad Type A, 120° viewing angle
► L3652: L3 = flux bin (min. 180 lm @ 350mA, 25°C), 652 = tint bin (BA)
Ah cool! Glad the 3000k SST20 I got lies below the BBL. It’s a shame nobody can source any 4000k variants that are below the BBL, because that is very much a goldilocks CCT I feel. It’s warm without being overly warm. The greenish tint is nothing a filter can’t fix though (especially since optics and ar glass probably add some green as well.)
If all goes well with the 3000k one, I’ll be ordering a second one for myself.
The fireflies one is the FA3 tint bin, which is at or below the BBL. But sometimes the tint bins are not exactly reliable as can be seen with the Samsung LH351D where the DUV is much higher than what the tint bin suggests. Will need the FA1, FA4, FD1, or FD4 tint bin to provide a slightly rosy tint similar to the Cree 5A/5D
Also I find it interesting that Hank sourced the exact same tint bins available at KD but one flux bin up. The 3000k should be marvelous.
If you follow the datasheet, the lowest bin for the 5000K SST-20 should be the L3 bin.
But mouser is selling a L2 bin…
And to be honest, the difference in flux bins is +30 to +25 lm @ 1500mA, or in other words, +5% on the low end and +4% on the high end.
But you could still be unlucky and get both a 560lm L2 and L3 bin at the same time.
Can anyone give me a hand trying to flash anduril firmware to my D4S? I have the USBASP programmer hooked up and the wires attached. This is what happens anytime I try to flash
avrdude: Device signature = 0x1e930b (probably t85)
avrdude: NOTE: “flash” memory has been specified, an erase cycle will be performed
To disable this feature, specify the -D option.
avrdude: erasing chip
avrdude: warning: cannot set sck period. please check for usbasp firmware update.
avrdude: reading input file “anduril.2018-11-11.EMISAR_D4S_219C.hex”
avrdude: input file anduril.2018-11-11.EMISAR_D4S_219C.hex auto detected as Intel Hex
avrdude: writing flash (7296 bytes):
I’m not even getting a connection now, I’ve checked all the wires too.
avrdude: error: program enable: target doesn’t answer. 1
avrdude: initialization failed, rc=–1
Double check connections and try again, or use -F to override
this check.
What gauge wire are you using from the programmer to your D4S? I tried using these Amazon.com wires but the pins were too big to fit into the holes on the light, the pins kept bending when I tried. Then I found some small solid wires around the house, they fit in the holes but they move around a bit. I’m not sure if I’m not getting a good connection, if I bricked the chip on the light or if this programmer is just bad.
I will look for some other wire to test with. What part of the holes actually make the connection, do the wires need to touch the bottom of each hole or is the metal around the outside of the holes? It looks like most of the metal is off the SC and V+ holes, so maybe that's my issue.