I bought a JM70 recently to put a White Flat in it. I couldn’t find any info on a JM70 II. What is the difference?
I just put a Black Flat in a little Utorch UT01, pretty cool, intense little light! 
Does your UT01 have a stock driver? What is the amp draw?
Magnetic charging
contactcr, 1.09A on an 14500 cell freshly charged. So it’s the stock driver, 4 modes. (Click on, click to shift modes L-H, hold to turn off) Still works with an AA Alkaline. 
I know, I know, I’m slacking. It should be pulling 57A and making 75,000 lumens by now…. 
Armytek Partner C1 driver swap to H17f. The flush reverse switch was done last week or so.
If you bought recently, you probably got II. As already said, it has magnetic charging.
Please let us know how does it work!
tint p#rn alert, this post is not suitable for viewers with any sense of practicality
Yesterday evening I hit the tint jackpot.
A few days ago I modded my classic Romisen RC-G2 with a 90CRI 3000K XP-L-HI from Kaidomain, and although the colour temperature and CRI were according to specs, the tint was above the BBL and rather yellow/greenish compared to i.e. the SST-20-W 3000K 95CRI. On top of that I liked the beam less floody, the old XR-E in the RC-G2 was way throwier and I wanted that back.
(some info on the mod one page back in this thread: What did you mod today? - #6377 by djozz )
So after slicing 4000K 90CRI Samsung LH351D with very good tint results before, I had a go at slicing the SST-20-W 4000K 95CRI, to get the throwy beam that I wanted in the RC-G2 and hopefully a good tint on top. I managed to do the slice very close to the bond wires, as low as it can go, and then built the led into the flashlight. It looks in the picture that there is a burnt part in the phosfor, but this is a fresh led that had had no more than 50mA current when the picture was taken.
And indeed I got my very good tinted throwy beam, no rings, no visible tint shifts, no green or too yellow but rosy, very nice! Here’s the beam on the white wall from 2.5 meters, phone cam on daylight setting.
It has a Blue spring at the tail now and a raised brass post at the driver side, so resitances are low. The driver is a bistro driver that I set on 3 levels plus moon, on the Vapcell 14500 I get 0.14 lumen, 3 lumen/15mA, 98 lumen/620mA, 410 lumen/4.65A. The efficiency is very low, 40lm/W for the low levels, just 25 lumen/W for the highest setting (which is just twice the efficiency of a halogen bulb )
I could see that the tint was nice, but then I measured the tints of the hotspot and found how good they actually were:
Highest 410 lumen setting, pretty good CRI, tint on the rosy side:
Medium 98 lumen setting:
Low 3 lumen setting. Not great output but look at the numbers 
It will not win any efficiency award but the trusty rusty RC-G2 has gotten a worthy modification 
1 Thank
Yuck! Glad you like it…
told you that this is for a selected group of tint weirdo’s
(high CRI tint pics are never look like reality, they tend to look brownish while it looks way whiter in real life)
Right On! It’s better than Yellow or Orange… but a bit too Rosy for me though…quite a bit…
Edit: I really like that Old Light :+1:
The problem there is the daylight white balance with a low tint from the emitter.
Set your camera for 3500K and it should look like you see it.
And I’m with Kawi, I’d throw that one in the trash. 
Edit: Beautiful slice on it though! Well done!
Time for a BLF tint schism 
(cool tints-cool schmints )
hahahahaha, I don’t like cool tints, per se, just really don’t like orange or brown light. Campfire girls or whatever. They can use it to cook their s-mores…
djozz that’s very good info. Amazing how much DUV drops with a tint slice on the SST-20 instead of going up like on the Crees. Too bad the efficiency is so poor.
I’m a bit surprised about the efficiency loss actually, compared to an undomed bare led I would expect 20% loss for dedoming and 20% cfrom building into a flashlight, assuming about 4A with tail on (I measured 4.65A with a clamp meter bypassing the clicky tail), that should be 550 lumen. I see that some light leaks to the side, but in a reflector build like this even most of that light should end up OTF.
I had to rebuild my DBC05 today, the XHP-70.2’s were starting to fail so I removed them and put in MT-G2’s. It was a bear getting the 20mm SinkPAD’s heated up enough to break the bond on the Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive with them sitting on such a big chunk of copper, but perseverance paid off. I machined off the remaining adhesive and removed the rimmed opening on the triple reflector so the base of the reflector is completely flat now to sit on the MT-G2 substrate. Had to open the emitter openings with scissors, so yeah this swap involved some fairly extensive hand fitting.
Here’s the new emitters sitting in place before wiring it up… about 2 lbs of copper still sitting under these emitters.
And a frontal view after assembly…
A shot on the wall showing a 16x20 canvas of my son when he was little…
These are Q0 5000K MT-G2 in 6V variant, they’re pulling 27A on the 2S Samsung 30T freshly charged for 12,488 lumens at start… not a horrible loss and a big tint improvement so all in all I’m ok with it. At around 9A each the MT-G2’s should hold up well, they’re very tough emitters….
Edit: The DBC-05 is this light for those that don’t recall…
Completely scratch built it started with a 3.17 lb chunk of Tellurium Copper.
Very nice. Thoughts on 70.2 failures?
Not sure. They were running at less than 16A each, they made a lot of heat and saturated the big copper pill pretty quickly so I would have to think heat is a major factor. Could be I suck at re-flowing, but the 70.2 I stuck in an L6 at over 9000 lumens is still going strong so I don’t know. I usually try to use the 6V boards with these, as in the case of that one in the L6, but these were on 12V boards, maybe that had something to do with it? They were running at 6V, in parallel, off a single 20mm FET driver with Zener mod.