[Available again! - BLF special edition light] new Sofirn AAA twisty high CRI 5mm LED

Jon_slider: nice comparison pictures :+1:

Thanks for sharing your first impression, and looking.m forward to those comparison pictures!

Thanks for the crystal clear battery choice write up :+1:

By the way, although outdated and deprecated NiCd might not be a bad choice for use in the C01 as these batteries can be fully drained to 0 Volts. 0 Volt is actually the recommended state for storage according to NASA.

In my extensive review of all - one - of my lights, I have found that the contact surface goes completely to the edge of the circuit board for both contacts:

So there does seem to be a significant variation for this parameter. I certainly hope the lights on my other two orders, moving at the more normal slow pace, look like this first one that I received. But I have used the simple method of just tinning the contact surface with solder when they appear like they are wearing, and the solder provides a durable, replenishable, contact to the battery tube.

Figured Iā€™d update again since Sofirn got back to me very early this morning apologizing and saying theyā€™ll resend the 3200K. And three hours later I got a tracking number for it. 10/10 customer support, even in this busy holiday season.
Iā€™ll probably receive it early January.

ā€”

So, Iā€™ve been using the 5600K C01 for a day or so. Pretty good for the price. Epoxy-resin-whatever looked solid to my eyes, I didnā€™t try poking it though.
Not sure about the anodization thickness or durability, managed to scratch the end while putting the ring on. Quite likely my own fault.
I did notice that the Yuji LED in mine doesnā€™t look to be perfectly level, i.e. it leans to one side of the ā€œreflectorā€ and you can see a gap on the other side. Not a big deal either.
Threads are excellent, force required to twist just right and as far as the contact surfaces go they look good.

Great Work Jslider! Thanks for posting this and making it nice and clear! :+1:

Thank you all for the very kind words

Im very happy with the 5600k, and glad I got it. It is working perfectly and makes a great light for close range such as in my Westfalia camper.

I also really like the 3200k option, including its color, as it is not overly yellow. And after sunset it is very nice to have the warm Color Temperature, particularly since I use Incandescent light at home, which is a very close match to the Yuji.

The only issue Ive had with the lights so far, is that the 3200k is a bit stiff to turn on one handed, and sometimes if I bump it, it turns off. I have found my Fenix has the same behavior. These lights want to be turned on with a firm twist to make good contact.

I feel a little guilty for making Sofirn provide a reversible clip, since I removed one of mine, just to feel the symmetry of the tube without the clip. To use a clipless light as a headlamp, I just tuck it under my hat, and it works very well. In fact, this makes it easy to shield others from the line of sight to the LED on my head. I can use the edge of the hat to ensure that someone in front of me only has their chest illuminated, not their face.

I lubricated the Orings slightly, and did a few dozen twist cycles to start to break the Oring in so it becomes easier to use the lights one handed. The 5600k feels perfect to me, no issues. The 3200k is still a bit tight, but Im sure its just a matter of a few dozen more twist cycles and all will be smooth in Paradise.

Thumbs up and respect to slowtechstef and djozz for all the time, and effort bringing us these lights, and thanks to Sofirn for taking on the project.

These lights are actually a culmination of many good suggestions by many people here. Thank you all for adding a couple great Cockroach Lights to my selection. I can see these little lights could make handy tools for Elderly people like myself, that need help reading a menu in a dark restaurant.

thumbs up all around
Merry HolyDays

So, for installing magnets and trits, is the approved method basically a drop of superglue for each?

I think the recommended adhesive is Norland Optical Adhesive-61 - it is what I use but is rather expensive (requires UV light to cure)

agreed,worth the price and works great!!

superglue will bond the trit to the body but the dried liquid will develop color by the age.

There are cheap variants of UV-curing glue, I suppose they will do the job too. I bought this one: https://www.banggood.com/UV-Light-Cure-Glue-Strong-Bonding-UV-Light-Cure-Adhesive-50g-K-3181-for-Metal-Glass-p-1156431.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN . When I get it I will post an impression of the stuff.

:open_mouth: :open_mouth: :open_mouth: . Wowā€¦ thatā€™s an understatement!! . :person_facepalming: . :money_mouth_face:

You need minute amounts of it when glueing in trits, mixglo.com (but also on Ebay) sells 1 or 3ml bottles of the stuff that are under 10 dollar and last for many many trits. Norland NOA61 UV adhesive (optical grade adhesive)

Thanks djozz, Iā€™ll get that or the stuff you mentioned from Banggood. :+1:

OK, but if the glue is on the underside of the trit and magnet, against a black flashlight body, why would it matter?


Hmmm, interesting question. :+1:

Because people like thorough solutions. In case of the C01 the trithole will not be easily crushed on impact, but if it does, it helps protecting the glass vial if the solid glue around it is keeping the cavity in shape.

I see. Thanks for the explanation, djozz.

Yeah, that makes perfect sense. Thanks djozz.