What did you mod today?

That can very well be, and I’m really glad that the pipe thing works so well :slight_smile: .

What I try to find out, build, and sometimes annoy you with, has little to do anymore with the practice of measuring and comparing flashlights, it is a personal nerdish obsession to get light measuring as correct as I can, which is quite off-topic for a flashlight forum actually. :smiley:

Lol, yeah, I hear ya. My obsession is to see how far they can be pushed, irregardless of what color or how correct the light is.

But still, I bought the calibration lights from Maukka and they came in today. My light box reads 9.3% high according to these 2 calibration lights. Well within standard deviation of emitters, cells, lenses, springs, whatever. :slight_smile:

Edit: While 9.3% doesn’t seem like much when looking at a BLF 348 56 lumen light, on the other end of the spectrum it looks horrible when subtracting it from a 17 emitter monster… like 2400 lumens of loss horrible! Of course, on the mainstream lights that we normally deal with it’s not such a big deal. lol (about 600 lumens on a Q8 out of the box, for example… if my .345 multiplier shows 5400 lumens then the correction factor reduces it to 4836) This could even be attributed to my charger pushing a 30Q to 4.21-4.22V compared to 4.19-4.20 at Maukka’s charger. I don’t know. Not a lot of difference though, 7 lumens on the BLF 348 and less than 30 on the S2. I used a brand new, never before charged 30Q fresh off the charger in the S2… used a brand new Duracell AAA as well as an Imedion LSD NiMH AAA to test the small light.

Top is shoebox “lumens” and bottom is bobbersphere “lux” with the conversion between the two below each. I used mostly constant current modes/lights. Some throw some flood. Different CCTs:

As an early test i’m surprised how similar they are. My shoe box is white lined using a Samsung Galaxy S6 and ceilingbounce app.

The bobbersphere has the cheapo HS1010A lux meter. No baffle but a short few inch long PVC with the inside end of it covered in parchment paper. Settled with .054 multiplier until I can convince someone to mail me their fancy lights :slight_smile:

Nice looking light Dale! I see you are still busy. Looks like your lathe skills have progressed nicely.

Since I've been away for so long, I guess I should share my latest meager mod. As a few of you know, a light that is near and dear to my heart is the Streamlight SL20X. It came from the factory with a whopping 300 lumens of crook catching power and ran off of a 6v NiCad battery. I made one previous attempt that I shared here which turned into a machining fest. Pretty much a new head screwed onto the old one.

Anyway, I decided that with some of the 6v emitters out, I could direct drive one of them with the ol NiCad and see how it goes. I'm pleased. I finally got what I think is a good drop (or screw) in solution for the venerable SL20X.

Added Beam Shots

Both pics taken at same exposure. Incan first.

Good to see your machining skills again Bucket. Welcome back. :+1:

Thanks! It’s good to be back. I see a lot of catching up to do. It seems that Dale has broken a few laws of physics and a whole slew of other drivers etc I need to read up on.

Good to see you Bucket, still cherishing my M8 you fixed up for me, one of my all time favorites! :smiley:

Wiil yak atcha l8r, kicked in the teeth at the moment… it is what it is…

I finished modding my Astrolux S43S.

  • Anduril on original driver.
  • Replaced the brass disc on the positive terminal with a cut-down Emisar spring to make it bump resistant.
  • 20 AWG wires.
  • Swapped in SST-20 3000K 95CRI emitters.
  • Cut slots in the switch hole so the switch/LED PCB can be slid through without removing the switch and LED leads.
  • Tore a slit in the silicone switch boot :+1:
  • Stripped the protective lacquer on the copper with alcohol.

I damaged the vias for the brass posts that connect the top and bottom boards by clumsily dissasembling too many times. If I do another (I don’t plan to) I’ll use some individual test clips to connect up to the MCU without having to take the thing apart.

I think the copper and the rich, warm emitters are a nice pairing.

Dale, I guess you need to update https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/46051….
It’s no longer a 10klum light with the battery tube it has. :wink:

Eagle Eye X1R + Noctigon 3XP 20 mm + 3 x Nichia 219BT - V1 D220 CRI92 5700K + Carclo 10511 + alluminium pill










Any chance to open up the bezel some more to reduce light loss? :slight_smile:

Very slightly.
The internal diameter of the bezel is 18.1 mm, the glass is about 20 mm, the fitting diameter for glass is 20.4 mm
Think, try to comprehend …

Thats a real nice mod johnkey68. :+1:

Nice pictures too :slight_smile: :+1:

Nice work John, looks like a very sweet light to use!

Agro, not sure what you mean?

nice mod Jonkey! how fast does it heat up on high?

I was just thinking about this, has anyone ever tried modding maybe something like a D4/D4S with a 2 channel driver and a modified MCPCB so that you can switch between something like floody LH351Ds or white/black flats?

Floody emitters for flood lighting but with the ability to switch to dedicated throwing emitters? Since there arent any LEDIL or Carclos with different patterns on the same mold this might be interesting.

Wasn’t today, but yesterday I added triple XPL-HI’s to a BLF-X6 flashlight with an aluminum heatsink and a FET driver. I love the X6’s.

Switch between floody and throwy you say?