Top is shoebox “lumens” and bottom is bobbersphere “lux” with the conversion between the two below each. I used mostly constant current modes/lights. Some throw some flood. Different CCTs:
As an early test i’m surprised how similar they are. My shoe box is white lined using a Samsung Galaxy S6 and ceilingbounce app.
The bobbersphere has the cheapo HS1010A lux meter. No baffle but a short few inch long PVC with the inside end of it covered in parchment paper. Settled with .054 multiplier until I can convince someone to mail me their fancy lights
Since I've been away for so long, I guess I should share my latest meager mod. As a few of you know, a light that is near and dear to my heart is the Streamlight SL20X. It came from the factory with a whopping 300 lumens of crook catching power and ran off of a 6v NiCad battery. I made one previous attempt that I shared here which turned into a machining fest. Pretty much a new head screwed onto the old one.
Anyway, I decided that with some of the 6v emitters out, I could direct drive one of them with the ol NiCad and see how it goes. I'm pleased. I finally got what I think is a good drop (or screw) in solution for the venerable SL20X.
Thanks! It’s good to be back. I see a lot of catching up to do. It seems that Dale has broken a few laws of physics and a whole slew of other drivers etc I need to read up on.
Replaced the brass disc on the positive terminal with a cut-down Emisar spring to make it bump resistant.
20 AWG wires.
Swapped in SST-20 3000K 95CRI emitters.
Cut slots in the switch hole so the switch/LED PCB can be slid through without removing the switch and LED leads.
Tore a slit in the silicone switch boot
Stripped the protective lacquer on the copper with alcohol.
I damaged the vias for the brass posts that connect the top and bottom boards by clumsily dissasembling too many times. If I do another (I don’t plan to) I’ll use some individual test clips to connect up to the MCU without having to take the thing apart.
I think the copper and the rich, warm emitters are a nice pairing.
Very slightly.
The internal diameter of the bezel is 18.1 mm, the glass is about 20 mm, the fitting diameter for glass is 20.4 mm
Think, try to comprehend …
I was just thinking about this, has anyone ever tried modding maybe something like a D4/D4S with a 2 channel driver and a modified MCPCB so that you can switch between something like floody LH351Ds or white/black flats?
Floody emitters for flood lighting but with the ability to switch to dedicated throwing emitters? Since there arent any LEDIL or Carclos with different patterns on the same mold this might be interesting.
Well yeah nick, you’re not really going to get throw from a tiny TIR in a multi optic. Black or White Flat either one… the TIR is just too small. You might decrease the hot spot size, but it’s still going to be rather floody, especially outside where distance gobbles up light.
The light in my Avatar has 8 LH351D, 4 of which are W6 power bin 70 CRI and 4 of which are U6 in 80 CRI, there are also 4 XP-L HD and 4 XP-L HI as well as the center de-domed and sealed SST-40. They all work in unison though. Tint overall is quite pleasing, beam quality is somewhat dependent on power level, quite well suited to walking in the lower modes and dang near a stadium light when fully powered up.
Yes, I have HD and HI emitters under the same quad optic, a D4S Ledil Angie in fact. Almost went with some Black Flats but they’re just too low powered. Effectively each of the 17 emitters present here are making 1500 lumens. Might be intersting to use separate drivers and a switch panel….
There is a Zanflare light with 4 independently adjustable heads with switches that allow each head to be turned on or off, perhaps different emitters could be used and different angles set up on the heads to create the flood/throw mixture you’re asking about?
