Short Review of Sofirn SP33 v2 with XHP50.2

That’s very good to know !
Hopefully we can identify the resistor and replace it.

so who will slice the led? just ordered mine. usually shipping is pretty fast.

Switch mod.

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Placed my order from their Aliexpress store Nov 14.
Tracking shows light was shipped Nov 26.
No updates since then. 30 days later and it hasn’t left China yet.

it is a busy time for the chinese and sometimes just bad luck i guess. my most recent sofirn took 11 days after they shipped it

If you don’t have updates, how do you know it’s still in China? My light took 27 days, but I ordered it a month before Thanksgiving. All deliveries are going to take longer during the holiday season (from about mid October to mid January). I had a 20 day gap of no updates. It seems yours got shipped 10 days after ordering, mine was 4 days after. I would guess you’ll probably see some updates in the next week or so. Once it hits the US, it can be delivered pretty quick. I wouldn’t stress too much about it.

Mine will be here today. 32 days.

When a package leaves China, the EPacket tracking shows it was sent to the USA.
When it arrives in the USA, USPS tracking shows it arrived.
Neither of those 2 things have happened, so I have no reason to believe the package has left China yet.

I have had packages arrive without ever getting any tracking info. That’s usually from dishonest Aliexpress vendors giving me a bogus tracking number to extend their shipping deadline.

My tracking went from “in transit in country”(China) to”arrived in NY” very quickly.
Seems to have missed a step or two.

Jason would you please give me a detail of side led mod

I need to do it over using a smd led. Parasitic drain is crazy high. I ordered some 3x3x2mm trim pots so I can easily adjust the brightness. I’ll post pictures when I redo it.

I noticed that sp33 has relatively short run time on high, less than the c8f and about the same as the sp32a. Is the XHP50 a less efficient emitter?This is from the Sofirn specs. (I know the 26650 an 18650 run times are reversed for the sp33 chart)

I’m in the same boat, ordered 11/11, shipped 11/26, no further updates.

I never pay attention to factory run time charts. They rarely give all the details and are usually way off.

As far as efficiency (power used/lumens out) the xhp50.2 is pretty normal. Consider it’s using 4 x XPG2 (or XPG3?) at a fairly low current where their efficiency is better. The SP32A uses a single XPL at a much higher current where it’s efficiency is poor. The C8F uses 3 x xpl so it’s efficiency should be better, about the same as the xhp50.2. Then you have driver efficiency and the reflector/lens efficiency. They all factor in. Then the manufacturer lumen ratings might be off a little. The C8F uses a FET driver so it’s brightness level drops as battery voltage goes down. The SP33 v2 is a boost driver and mostly maintains the brightness levels. The SP32A I’m not sure what driver design it has. Etc… :weary:

It’s too complicated for me.

I guess I won the ‘AliExpress Shipping Lottery’…… for the first time ever!! :smiley:

I placed my order 23 November 2018 & mine just Processed Through Facility ISC MIAMI FL (USPS) today.

It should be here soon… “should” being the operative word. :+1: . :wink:

Okay, I tried many different switch led combos.

This one is the orange-ish red led. It’s an led I had laying around and it seemed to run fine at 4.2v with no resistor. It was not even that bright. It lasted about 15 minutes. I guess it burned up. It drew a crazy 144mA. Not 144uA like you might expect, but 1000 times higher! Basically 144,000uA. No good at all.

Next I tried a white smd led and a 8k resistor. It was too dim. I tried a 2k resistor (850uA drain) and it was still too dim.

I decided to switch to a blue led (950uA drain) as well as elevate it up to the switch button tube to increase the brightness. It’s not as bright as I’d like, but we are limited by this switch design. This will get the job done. :partying_face:

I didn’t notice before. There are two footprints for FETs?

Oh, but the boost-converter has the switch built in, so the FET (s) is for reverse polarity protection?

Thanks Jason , I have to try remove the driver first.

Here is a guide. The best way is to push the wires down and out of the way. Then take a small diameter rod and tap lightly on the negative side hole. The positive side hole does have a few nearby components, so you have to feel around to make sure and avoid them.

Set the head on a vice or something solid. Something that will not absorb the energy of the hammer taps. Then do very light taps. The driver has to slide out evenly due to the vertical board. I did a few light taps on one side and then switched over to the other side. I went back and forth until it seemed like the glue had snapped loose. Then I was able to pull the driver out by the spring. I had to both pull and wiggle. You can also push the driver with a rod as you’re pulling. Just be careful not to get it crooked or it will jam up.

Here is a close up of the upper right area.


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That helpfull thanks again any idea to slice the dome of 50.2 ?