Are there lights that can sustain 20k lumens without thermal issues?
Probably not any that are on the market in stock form. But I really don’t know. Acebeam has the X70-GT that is fan cooled and has a top output of 90,000 lumens (for a little while). It could possibly do fairly well with 20,000 lumens. It would run out of power long before three hours, though. Modern LED streetlights produce tens of thousands of lumens for all night long, so the heat issue has to be solvable, even without active cooling.
Edit: Just now read the thread about the Acebeam X70-GT saying it is fake. Sorry. :person_facepalming:
Not really. This box contains 25 of the mentioned 18650 size batteries. You’ll get slightly better power density (power to weight ratio) with lipo’s.
So a X70-GT with an external battery pack is plausible…
Sorry, the Acebeam X70-GT turns out to be a fake. But, it is still definitely possible to do something like 20,000 lumens for three hours if heat is managed properly and power supply is large enough.
You guys have all been so nice to me. Thanks for the warm welcome!
How about a series of grow lights with different wavelength emitters to get the proposed spectrum? They could be modified to run off an external battery. Size might become an issue though if like 6 of them were needed.
Thinking about it now, Tom Tom could be right. Another type of bulb could be better since there would be less need for thermal considerations. I really don’t know much about the light spectrum though.
They say that light puts out “LED Wavelength: 300-830nm” which would fit my needs very well. However, there’s the brightness issue.
How remote is the location where you will use this light? Reason I ask is if it is remote, 20,000 lumens seems excessive.
I pulled in at a remote fuel stop in Outback Australia. That place was crawling with flying insects and it wasn’t that brightly lit but as it was the only light source, insects were attracted there
You know, that’s a really good point. I think you’re right. I’d still like it plenty bright, but I hadn’t thought of that. There ARE geniuses here!
I’ve always had the philosophy that it’s better to have more light available than you think you’ll need, and dim it down to the level you want.
Me too!
pouf! You’re a custom flashlight…
Or you could just stand me in the middle of a parking lot. For some reason bugs just love me. I’m like sugar to them… :confounded:
There’s a Nitecore Big Honkin’ Light Panel that could probably do the trick, but it’s pricey. Probably need cool-white or the usual colors that are bug-magnets.
What color were you looking for, specifically? Any idea? Or just Whatever Color Attracts Bugs?
Something like this:
Bugs are very attracted to UV (which is why a lot of fly traps use it to attach them) but that can be dangerous to human eyes.
If this is to be used in a dark area at night then a regular white LED (which emits over a wide range of wavelengths) should be good enough to attract a bunch of insects.
A COB LED is ideal for this use case because you don’t need to have a ton of smaller LEDs, and if you get a very powerful COB and drive it at like 50% you can get very high efficiency (150lm/W or more)
…in which case, you’d only need a ~400wH battery to power it for three hours. 
Here is a specialist UK supplier, for stuff that works:
http://www.pwbelg.clara.net/mercury/index.html
The gold standard is a high powered mercury vapour bulb, 125 watts upward, but these have been banned in the EU for over 3 years now, so old stocks are getting low here.
See Moth Traps - Special Offers for current special offers.
In the field, “Moth ers” will power these, in maybe multiple traps, using a small generator, if mains is not available.
They also sell specialist UV LED bulbs, actinic tubes and compact fluorescents, DIY kits, etc. etc.
Worth taking a look to see what the specialists are using.
See also https://www.angleps.com/electrics.php who are now restricting customers to only two replacement MV bulbs per order, as stocks run low.
this means water cooled System with battery and radiator in a backpack and some sort of connection with cables and water hose
What about a modified light bar?
By the way, lumens are not a relevant measurement for UV emitters. They are a measure of VISIBLE light. Their definition is based on the response curve of the human eye.
“The lumen (symbol: lm) is the SI derived unit of luminous flux, a measure of the total quantity of visible light emitted by a source. Luminous flux differs from power (radiant flux) in that radiant flux includes all electromagnetic waves emitted, while luminous flux is weighted according to a model (a ”luminosity function”) of the human eye’s sensitivity to various wavelengths.”
…
“A source radiating a power of one watt of light in the color for which the eye is most efficient (a wavelength of 555 nm, in the green region of the optical spectrum) has luminous flux of 683 lumens. So a lumen represents at least 1/683 watts of visible light power, depending on the spectral distribution.”
I.e.a true (invisible) UV LED emits zero lumens.
Perhaps there is some tenuous read-across, but UV LEDs are also quite different in design and construction from the highly researched and optimised “white” emitters (actually blue, with colour conversion phosphor on top).
The relevant unit of radiant flux is the Watt, meaning Watts out, not Watts in. To talk of lumens, or lumens per Watt in the context of UV LEDs is just ignorant.
For example, Djozz has tried to develop his own method for comparing UV LED performance using standard instruments tuned for the human eye luminosity function, initially using fluorescence of white printer paper, now using the bright green fluorescence of Uranium glass ISTR.