No cam available right now... maybe tomorrow
These ones from the bay of E's, but shipping was slowest of slow... better try your link.
The brinyte is as close as it gets to a perfect clone of the LD01 from pictures I saw on the net. Somewhere where even side by side pictures, but can't find the bookmark anymore.
Sent from my xphone
the ebay seller sells (5,6,7,8,10)mm x 3mm disc magnets, so would you believe that a smaller one than your suggested 10x3 is strong enough too?
keyrings (split rings) are magnetic too, so maybe keychain carry with split ring(s)+magnet is not the most practical idea. the magnet force would not let the split ring swivel, tss.
10x3 is optimal you think -- not too much strength? (yep, would love to see several pix as illustration. my hirn is too weak to imagine the beautiful fit hehe)
Will try to upload some tomorrow... I would be worried for bank/credit-cards... I will not install them permanently... too strong. I will use them for car/motorcycle repairs when I don't have a headlamp with me, or when I need a fixed light source. They are cheap ... so if you don't like them on your lights... they make great refrigerator magnets.
this is a convincing argument, thanks!! even a 5x3mm would be too strong and also mess with the splitring(s). i should regard the magnet really as accessory only as in your great example (work, repairs, vehicles, ..) and not carry it on the light all day long (the DQG Tiny II has a magnet. cant wait to see the DQG Tiny III sample on cpfmp!).
for work purposes, i do have my gorillapod with magnetic feet. it holds 20mm diameter torches (1x AA) very well and bigger ones (1x 18650). it's accessory too.
Finally i have understood what the magnet is good for: not for everyday carry and permanent installation but for sporadic application in very rare situations ( work ;) )
Am going to place the ebay order now for 10x3mm. that fits nicely into Tank E09, Fenix LD01 and Worm SS. ... okéeee..
EDIT: just ordered the warhammer neodymium 10x3mm!!
I'm not that fond of Uniross chargers in general - quite a few of them turned out to be battery cookers as they missed termination.
This one is decent and not expensive.
A pack of 8 eneloops
and the above charger will come to less than the eBay deal. And has (IMO) a better charger.
found it. my contribution went herein:
Thanks, I'll check out the links. At the moment I'm stuggling to upload some pictures. Had it all done, tried to preview, and for some reason it all disappeared! 
Talk among yourselves for a bit. Oh, you have been :\
while talking, we waitin' for ya! :p
No, not letting me do it. Maybe too many pics at once? I can't make the image URL/tree icon method work, so I've been trying to copy/paste the pictures themselves direct from Photobucket. I'll try one at a time. In the meantime I'll try to answer some of kreisler's earlier questions.
Hotspot is about 18cm in diameter at 1m distance. Spill diameter, including hotspot, is 1.2 M. There appears to be no doughnut hole or beam artifacts, though to be honest I'm not sure my eye is attuned enough to recognize these yet. Beam has a Saturn ring outside it, and appears slightly lopsided (off centre emitter?) Let's try just one beamshot pic.
My DQG Tiny II has a glow dot... for the same reasons... wallet and keychain are often in close proximity how I carry them
System seems to be struggling with the pics. Are they too big, maybe? I'll try a couple more. If this works, here's the Brynite with its new friends
Thanks to a very well placed notch machined into the tail ring the Brynite can tailstand even when attached to the keys
I wonder if you have a different type of anodization, as I can already see same silver shining through the red ano... my black one doesn't have a scratch from 2 years usage. I remember that I read somewhere that HAIII has to be black and every colored ano is Type II max.
This shot shows how the sliver of aluminium retainer is already starting to erode 
Here compared to G10 on the right
Here from about 30cm away. Shows the beam pattern and lopsidedness a bit better. Sorry to do all this one at a time. It's definitely the images causing the difficulty. Each post is taking about a minut to upload.
If you would use a very short nylon strap or thin paracord... might be easier on the aluminum.
Hm. It's an idea. Problem I see with that (as I'm sure you've thought of as well) is that the aluminium would soon wear through the cord. How does it work on your DQG? Must have a stronger anchor point, yes? And you're quite right about the red 'ano'. Looks nice, but somehow doesn't feel very resiliant. I get the feeling I could probably etch my name into it with any sharp metal object, though probably not quite true.
The nylon can be changed out when it starts to get thin the alu can't. The anchor point of the DQG is stainless steel wire ... I think it is called piano wire? Looks absolutely flimsy, but works great. Here shown with the glow dot. (click images for sources) The DQG is the perfect keychain light if there weren't some issues with a missing O-ring groove... mine eats a O-ring per battery change... this is one of the improvements on the upcoming tiny III. I try to fix mine with a file, or try to get a back end of the tiny III separately, if they are thread compatible.
Yees, I suppose. Probably need to do it frequently, though. I may try it, thx for the suggestion. Could use heavy gauge fishing line doubled or trebled up. What I was thinking was to drill a new hole for the split ring every so often. Maybe angle it down slightly, to give a wider retainer. I'd end up with a lot of holes, though..
SS would obviously be a better material for this purpose. Pity kreisler's Lumintop Worm is so pricey. Though I did come across this: http://www.dealextreme.com/p/waterproof-sa-r2-stainless-steel-cree-xp-e-r2-wc-5-mode-memory-240-lumen-led-flashlight-1-aaa-47661
Obviously an inferior copy, but visually at least, it looks like a very close one.
Hello Lensman, thanks so much for the high-quality photos!! Very helpful and appetizing. From your description and the pictures i get the impression that the torch has surprising high quality, the beam profile and tint look perfect, and i wouldnt mind the lopsidedness (How bad does it really show in RL? The perspective of the shot taken distorts reality) since the hotspot looks round and has no further corona. Actually this nice beam profile is to be expected because of the deep reflector which eliminates corona artifacts and produces a concentrated focused hotspot with natural spill. I would be happy if the Tank E09's beam looked like that!
The tail's keyring hole is similar to any other aluminum torch's keyring attachment point. The difference is *this time* you/we actually make use of it. Typically a mini split ring is engaged in the hole as you did it and then you let it ride for the rest of the torch's life; the torch would fail sooner than the thin sliver of aluminum retainer -- but we cant generalize this, of course. Nylon/cord is a recommended way to spare the aluminum (fishing cord, superb stuff!) and i will look into it too. I am even thinking of using heat-shrink wrap (tube) to protect the LD01's head against shocks/drops. That's a big advantage with my Tank E09's; i am keeping 3 copies, lots of spare parts. And if Tank007 Co. decides to release a V3 with prolonged body tube to support Protected Ultrafire 10440's, then i will get it too (from Dinodirect with dinopoints).
If the info of this thread is gathered in the OP, then you guys could turn it to an official review thread. Maybe a few pics more e.g. of the head parts, disassembly, the threads, insulator, contact disc, etc. and some Eneloop runtime data and done would be the review :) -- For comparison purposes i wouldnt mind testing the Brinyte. Vectrex, how much did *you* pay for it back then, can you remember? DX customers complain about the price ;=) The PD03 supports safe op on 10440's, the LD01 release 4 doesnt.
Realizing that AAA-lights, the good ones!, can compete with AA-lights regarding integral brightness (brightness x runtime) i am really fond of them. Especially Worm and LD01 have amazing proven performance data. The Klarus MiX6 has great runtimes, beam profile and tint but the light is too dim in comparison and has no throw at all; not a practical torch at all. Slippery, no tail-stand, etc.
I would pick the SS version over the lighter-weight Alu version; it’s possible to submit an ebay price suggestion (offer to HKE), 24.95$ would be my 1st try.
Lensman, interesting chargers are the new Intellicharger i4 V2 (~25$, on DD with dinopoints etc for much less), the generic BC-700 (~20$, rebranded), and the very robust C9000 (~40$, formerly 89.95$ list price). mfm has much experience with original Sanyo/original Eneloop chargers so he could tell which one's the best. Since Sanyo chargers cost about the same as the BC-700, i would go for the latter .. because it has a LCD display.