[♛ FreemeGB] Fireflies PL47 Gen II 4*XP-L/ Nichia/ SST20 Hi CRI 21700 Right Angle Flashlight - ENDED

Dude, watch the language… good way to get offed the forum. :wink:

Didn’t know that was a thing, changed it. Thanks for letting me know.

It’s in the rules that you just recently supposedly read.

Thank you.

So has anyone with cell fitment issues considered the Sanyo 20700 cells? Or the 20650’s? There are options…

For battery length issues a copper washer in the tail cap works just fine. If you don’t want to go looking for them you can just order from walmart. I’m using 22 mm OD at the moment but 24 mm will probably fit without sanding down. No need for all the hand wringing

Doesn’t the copper washer need to have a large enough ID for the cell to fit through for it to work? How easy is it to find those? If the cell hits the washer, well it seems like there would still be a fitment issue.

Buy the right cell, much easier, no washer to fall out at every cell change. (or put the spacer on the driver then change the cell from the tail all the time)

FWIW, the inside of my PL47 measures 21.8 mm in diameter. The cell I’m using measures 21.3 mm by 70.5 to 70.1 mm depending on where I measure it. 70.5 mm including the wrapper, or about 70.1 mm between + and - contacts.

Some other things which may be worth noting:

  • On the 219B version, a high-amp cell could actually result in fewer lumens than a lower-amp cell. It could easily drive the emitters on the wrong (overheated) side of their output curve, overshooting the peak. So… use the recommended cells.
  • Apparently the light ships in muggle mode by default, so output may seem pretty unimpressive until it’s put back into regular modes.
  • Double-click from off does not go to turbo by default. To get to full power, turn the light on and then double click.

Easy to find 22 mm OD here - 22mm

24 mm here - 24 mm

As I said they work fine - using them now in 2 lights - already had batteries- people are complaining that the batteries they already purchased are too long - problem solved

USPS hasn’t got mine yet. I do have a tracking number though. Guess I’m looking at January before I will see my SST-20 version. You would think they would give us some sort of information such as “delays in production” or something. Good thing I am patient. My XPL-Hi version seems good though. The head wasn’t tightened all the way and when I put the battery in it acted weird, coming on in one mode and not ramping. A quick twist of the head to tighten it fixed the issue.

I’m running Samsung 40T with no issues. The 30T is a bit higher rated for amps but I’m not sure if that will generate too much heat in the XPL HI, can anyone chime in?

Shirnask, if the copper washer doesn’t fit down over the cell then your light should work just as well without the copper washer. Rare to find a washer that has an ID that will slip over the 21700 cell, it has to be as thin as the battery tube itself almost. Please check your washer, see if it fits over the cell. If it doesn’t, the cell hits the washer and leaves the tail cap offset by the thickness of the washer and is actually adding to the length of the cell.

I know Fireflies asks us not to use the 30T in the Nichia version, not sure about the others. I had planned to use the 30T, but will be changing that plan until I know the emitters can handle it, or until I change the emitters. Since I had ordered the Luminus SST-20 emitters, which are totally new to me, I’ll have some testing to do. May end up using a 20650 cell, don’t know at this time. Have some, may as well use them if everything else is ruled out.

From my previous posts in this thread-
My champagne Tube is 21.4 mm.
Sofirn 4000mAh= 21.7mm.
Shockli 4000mAh=21.7mm.
Samsung INR21700-50E= 21.1mm.
Samsung IMR21700-30T=21.2mm.
Rofis RF21700=21.8mm.

Dale, it does not have to fit over the cell, the washer is there to make contact with the tube, the spring makes contact with the battery

Texas Toasted, can you tell if the Sofirn, Shockli, and Rofis cells are double wrapped? Might it be sufficient to pull the wrapper, or both, and rewrap?

Shirnask, please, look at it… if the cell is protruding from the tube then the washer will stack on the cell and make the entire assembly that much longer. Humor me. This is the first time I’ve done this….

I’ll have to check that later tonight. They are not protected cells, but I haven’t tried peeling back the wrappers to see what’s underneath.

Dale, the difference it makes is that you no longer have to compress the spring in the tail cap completely just to have the tube make contact - the difference between grinding the cap on as hard as you can just to make contact and a gentle 2 finger twist. I can make it work without them but I destroyed one o-ring getting the SST20 tight enough on a 30T without them. I agree that if you don’t already have batteries get ones that fit without this, but other wise this is much better than destroying o-rings and crushing springs

I never crank down on threads, it shows something is amiss. Remove the spring in the tail cap if necessary, put a small dab of solder in it’s place, but never crank down a threaded cap on a cell to gain contact that isn’t there. Dangerous on the cell, at the very least you cause damage that can’t be repaired.

So, Shirnask, from what you’re saying you’re using the copper washer to compress the driver spring and make contact to the tube, why not just ream the ID of the washer so it clears the cell then it’d be an easy fit, solder the washer to the tail PCB ground and be done with it.

I thought about the solder but did not want to chance killing the magnet, I like it.