Nice pictures too 
Nice work John, looks like a very sweet light to use!
Agro, not sure what you mean?
nice mod Jonkey! how fast does it heat up on high?
I was just thinking about this, has anyone ever tried modding maybe something like a D4/D4S with a 2 channel driver and a modified MCPCB so that you can switch between something like floody LH351Ds or white/black flats?
Floody emitters for flood lighting but with the ability to switch to dedicated throwing emitters? Since there arent any LEDIL or Carclos with different patterns on the same mold this might be interesting.
Wasn’t today, but yesterday I added triple XPL-HI’s to a BLF-X6 flashlight with an aluminum heatsink and a FET driver. I love the X6’s.
Switch between floody and throwy you say?
Pretty big form factor difference between that and a D4/D4S tube light
Well yeah nick, you’re not really going to get throw from a tiny TIR in a multi optic. Black or White Flat either one… the TIR is just too small. You might decrease the hot spot size, but it’s still going to be rather floody, especially outside where distance gobbles up light.
The light in my Avatar has 8 LH351D, 4 of which are W6 power bin 70 CRI and 4 of which are U6 in 80 CRI, there are also 4 XP-L HD and 4 XP-L HI as well as the center de-domed and sealed SST-40. They all work in unison though. Tint overall is quite pleasing, beam quality is somewhat dependent on power level, quite well suited to walking in the lower modes and dang near a stadium light when fully powered up.
Yes, I have HD and HI emitters under the same quad optic, a D4S Ledil Angie in fact. Almost went with some Black Flats but they’re just too low powered. Effectively each of the 17 emitters present here are making 1500 lumens. Might be intersting to use separate drivers and a switch panel….
There is a Zanflare light with 4 independently adjustable heads with switches that allow each head to be turned on or off, perhaps different emitters could be used and different angles set up on the heads to create the flood/throw mixture you’re asking about?
Edit: Nick, have a look at the Zanflare F4 HERE
I have more ideas too.
Get a Emisar D1S, buy dust cover, cut out the middle, replace with D-C Fix:
Flap open, throw, flap closed, super flood. Lol.
Blowtorched the bezel and tailcap of my SP36 sample today. A 5 minute job but I had to watch out very well what happened: to get brown instead all the way to golden is a matter of seconds, and the discolouring goes on for a while after the piece is removed from the heat so you have to sort of predict the final colour before it is there.
The features and performance were there already, but the SP36 design looks plain boring, and now a bit less so .
Your making me hungry djozz. 
^ Hungry for toasted flashlights?
Another fairly quick mod before wife&son come back from korfball and expect a lunch&coffee ready on the table:
I brought my DQG18650 twisty back from the stone ages to a very nice usable light. It was the first 18650 flashlight from DQG and to my knowledge still the only 18650 twisty ever made. At the time the XM-L2 was fairly new and despite requests from BLF to use it, it came with the old XM-L.
Because the led was reflowed on the (frp) driver board which is glued in, a swap always seemed unreachable for me. But since then I bought my Antex 80W solder iron (The Beast). So this morning it occurred to me that with everything in place, just remove the bezel and TIR, I could heat up the brass post from below and get the led hot enough to melt the solder, and indeed that worked and I could reflow a nice 3000K 90CRI XM-L2, the last one I found in my led box from the good first batch that KD had (they since changed to a different batch with worse tint above the BBL).
Now I like the DQG18650twisty again, still the smallest and lightest weight 18650 light in my collection, and now with great tint. It has low14lm-med144lm-high316lm, here’s the colour data measured in the hotspot of high and low:
High:
Low:
Do you know the bin codes djozz? Does it happen to be S6 7D3?
Originally Ban listed 7A3 while his pic of the reel showed 7A4. So the information is at least inconsistent.
We will never know what we got after he started selling the new batch.
With the original driver, on the maximum mode, in 10 minutes to about 40-42 degrees. I didn’t torture me further, I don’t shoot
It is necessary to recognize that the heating is insignificant, which is not surprising, with such currents
I failed to reflow 3x white flats on an old C8F mcpcb. To make myself feel better im going to blame the pad spacing or something.
Slapped together a X6 Shorty Flat White pocket thrower 115kcd…
830-835lm at turn on pulling 5.8amps 20mm board, contact surfaces honed/stoned flat, polished and screwed down. 771lms at 30 seconds.
Meh…blue bling tail cap…
Measured the Turbo Flat White today 695kcd
Beautiful mods KawiBoy
Thanks luminarium iaculator 
Turn on at 5.5amps…after a couple test bumps…
Look Ma No Centering Ring! :cry: We having fun now…. :person_facepalming:
I bored the original shelf out, I was just too thin, and made a press fit copper pill with a seating ledge (for the reflector) and centering pocket (for the board) that centers the mcpcb and the reflector together, to get the canter out at the top of the reflector, I used a bit of Kapton tape. Never again… this is the last time I swap emitters out of this one… 
Nice! I am also fan of centering without centering ring.