BLF GT official support thread [FAQ updated 11 Jan 2018]

no, the whole light doesn’t work, it doesn’t even flash as supposed to when connection is first made. Not even the switch light comes on.

Yep, i only turned it up to turbo for a few seconds on each occasion since i didn’t want to risk fogging the reflector permanently. Not that it matters now, since i won’t have to deal with any more smoking. Hell, not even any light lol

Hmm, that is very strange indeed, that would seem to be an issue with the driver not getting power at all.

I would make sure that the retaining ring is tight, if it is loose it can break the power path.

Also, try manually holding the carrier against the driver to make sure it gets a good connection.

Also, naturally make sure that the carriers are inserted the right way.

There is no logical reason the light would just die for no reason when not in use. So it is most likely something else.

Since the carriers have that polarity protection and some button top cells are borderline tall enough, I would verify the voltage on the carrier. See if it’s putting out 16v on the end. Then do like TA says and just push the carrier against the head to see if it works.

Also make sure the carrier screws are tight. If they happen to be loose it can cause intermittent power loss.

That is an oddly accurate description.

Anyway, I hope people can get the GT issues worked out.

ok…. i know it’s been pretty long since the craze over the GT… but does anyone remember as well as i do that stock GA’s were supposed to work in these things? or is it just me…. the 35E’s did the trick by the way

Panny GA are a good choice.

Did you figure out why your light wasn’t working?

Exactly, and i’m pretty damn sure i was using GA’s the last time i turned them on but now only the 35e’s work. Perhaps a spring issue? That’d be strange too since i never leave my batteries installed so how could the springs have become permanently compressed or something….

Did you do all the checks in post 300 and 301?

There might have been one button top that wasn’t tall enough to make contact. Measure the carrier voltage. If no voltage, them inspect the button top clearance.

You can see that the clearance is tight.

Companies buy button tops to add to batteries from different places, so their height and width is all over the place. There are no standards for battery diameter, length, button top height, flat top height, etc… unlike AA, C, D, etc…

Are the GA’s button top? The brand of cell should not matter as long as it makes contact on both ends like Jason said.

I use laptop cells in my GT for example with solder blob.

they’re stock raised top but not button top. i still remember them working in these lights though. no voltage reading with them for sure. looks like it was a good idea to purchase the 35e’s anyhow.

Unless you modify the battery carrier & physically remove the reverse polarity protection, the GA’s will not work unless they are button tops. (or you solder b(. )( .)b them.)

Those are the facts. :+1:

Raised flat tops? I am surprised they worked at all. You need this much extra height.

And no more than this amount of width.

I bet if you add a little solder blob they would work just fine.

GA’s with a raised ‘flat top’ will not worked.

IF they ‘somehow’ worked once upon a time… they would work again. It would be repeatable.

haha looks like this hobby has failed to illuminate my memory somehow. looks like i remember wrong after all…… oh yeah… i did use GA’s… those with button tops! i just forgot i even had them having used the flat tops most of the time. sorry, false alarm, thanks for the help guys!

Do the GA’s with button top work in the light or is there still an issue with them?

@ R10500…. :+1: No apology necessary, stuff happens & memory sometimes fails. :smiley: . :wink:

Just glad the mystery had such a simple solution…… :beer:

Guys sorry if the question is basic but do the BLF GT/GT70 take flat tops Samsung 30Q’s.Its pretty hard to find button tops now :frowning:

No, they must have button top unless you remove the polarity protection.

The best option is to just solder blob the cells in most cases. This is what I do to mine.

I guess I will do that or I read I can buy and put little magnet on the positive side.I cant find any 30Qs with button tops :frowning: Maybe all are gone cause the users of BLF GT bought them all ahhaha :slight_smile:

Here you go… Samsung 30Q Button Tops at Liion Wholesale. These are genuine cells and the Button Tops are correctly installed.

Magnets suck ….
…. either get the Button Tops or do solder b(. )( .)bs. :+1:

EDIT:… Ooops, I just realized you are not in the USA. Sorry, my bad.