Switch between floody and throwy you say?
Pretty big form factor difference between that and a D4/D4S tube light
Well yeah nick, youāre not really going to get throw from a tiny TIR in a multi optic. Black or White Flat either oneā¦ the TIR is just too small. You might decrease the hot spot size, but itās still going to be rather floody, especially outside where distance gobbles up light.
The light in my Avatar has 8 LH351D, 4 of which are W6 power bin 70 CRI and 4 of which are U6 in 80 CRI, there are also 4 XP-L HD and 4 XP-L HI as well as the center de-domed and sealed SST-40. They all work in unison though. Tint overall is quite pleasing, beam quality is somewhat dependent on power level, quite well suited to walking in the lower modes and dang near a stadium light when fully powered up. 
Yes, I have HD and HI emitters under the same quad optic, a D4S Ledil Angie in fact. Almost went with some Black Flats but theyāre just too low powered. Effectively each of the 17 emitters present here are making 1500 lumens. Might be intersting to use separate drivers and a switch panelā¦.
There is a Zanflare light with 4 independently adjustable heads with switches that allow each head to be turned on or off, perhaps different emitters could be used and different angles set up on the heads to create the flood/throw mixture youāre asking about?
Edit: Nick, have a look at the Zanflare F4 HERE
I have more ideas too.
Get a Emisar D1S, buy dust cover, cut out the middle, replace with D-C Fix:
Flap open, throw, flap closed, super flood. Lol.
Blowtorched the bezel and tailcap of my SP36 sample today. A 5 minute job but I had to watch out very well what happened: to get brown instead all the way to golden is a matter of seconds, and the discolouring goes on for a while after the piece is removed from the heat so you have to sort of predict the final colour before it is there.
The features and performance were there already, but the SP36 design looks plain boring, and now a bit less so .
Your making me hungry djozz. 
^ Hungry for toasted flashlights?
Another fairly quick mod before wife&son come back from korfball and expect a lunch&coffee ready on the table:
I brought my DQG18650 twisty back from the stone ages to a very nice usable light. It was the first 18650 flashlight from DQG and to my knowledge still the only 18650 twisty ever made. At the time the XM-L2 was fairly new and despite requests from BLF to use it, it came with the old XM-L.
Because the led was reflowed on the (frp) driver board which is glued in, a swap always seemed unreachable for me. But since then I bought my Antex 80W solder iron (The Beast). So this morning it occurred to me that with everything in place, just remove the bezel and TIR, I could heat up the brass post from below and get the led hot enough to melt the solder, and indeed that worked and I could reflow a nice 3000K 90CRI XM-L2, the last one I found in my led box from the good first batch that KD had (they since changed to a different batch with worse tint above the BBL).
Now I like the DQG18650twisty again, still the smallest and lightest weight 18650 light in my collection, and now with great tint. It has low14lm-med144lm-high316lm, hereās the colour data measured in the hotspot of high and low:
High:
Low:
Do you know the bin codes djozz? Does it happen to be S6 7D3?
Originally Ban listed 7A3 while his pic of the reel showed 7A4. So the information is at least inconsistent.
We will never know what we got after he started selling the new batch.
With the original driver, on the maximum mode, in 10 minutes to about 40-42 degrees. I didnāt torture me further, I donāt shoot
It is necessary to recognize that the heating is insignificant, which is not surprising, with such currents
I failed to reflow 3x white flats on an old C8F mcpcb. To make myself feel better im going to blame the pad spacing or something.
Slapped together a X6 Shorty Flat White pocket thrower 115kcdā¦
830-835lm at turn on pulling 5.8amps 20mm board, contact surfaces honed/stoned flat, polished and screwed down. 771lms at 30 seconds.
Mehā¦blue bling tail capā¦
Measured the Turbo Flat White today 695kcd
Beautiful mods KawiBoy 
Thanks luminarium iaculator 
Turn on at 5.5ampsā¦after a couple test bumpsā¦
Look Ma No Centering Ring! :cry: We having fun nowā¦. :person_facepalming:
I bored the original shelf out, I was just too thin, and made a press fit copper pill with a seating ledge (for the reflector) and centering pocket (for the board) that centers the mcpcb and the reflector together, to get the canter out at the top of the reflector, I used a bit of Kapton tape. Never againā¦ this is the last time I swap emitters out of this oneā¦ 
Nice! I am also fan of centering without centering ring.
Orsm job KB.
Changed the Utorch UT02 from a boosted XHP-35 thrower to a totally different kind of lightā¦ built a Zener modified FET driver with 8.4V LVP and 7 modes with reversing action through the e-switch, stuck it in the UT02 with an MT-G2.
Edit: On a pair of 26350 cells fully charged it makes 3600+ lumens.
Edit II: Tail current shows 5.96A from the little fat half cells.
Since my C8F white flat re-flow didnāt pan out I put some shaved dome SST-20 4000Kās in an 18650 C8F.
I got 50kcd and ~1,700 lumens
It doesnāt look very centered to me so iām sure thereās a better result if you just had to have a 95CRI thrower.
Do these cellās make my tail look fat?