I have more ideas too.
Get a Emisar D1S, buy dust cover, cut out the middle, replace with D-C Fix:
Flap open, throw, flap closed, super flood. Lol.
Blowtorched the bezel and tailcap of my SP36 sample today. A 5 minute job but I had to watch out very well what happened: to get brown instead all the way to golden is a matter of seconds, and the discolouring goes on for a while after the piece is removed from the heat so you have to sort of predict the final colour before it is there.
The features and performance were there already, but the SP36 design looks plain boring, and now a bit less so 
.
Your making me hungry djozz. 
^ Hungry for toasted flashlights?
Another fairly quick mod before wife&son come back from korfball and expect a lunch&coffee ready on the table:
I brought my DQG18650 twisty back from the stone ages to a very nice usable light. It was the first 18650 flashlight from DQG and to my knowledge still the only 18650 twisty ever made. At the time the XM-L2 was fairly new and despite requests from BLF to use it, it came with the old XM-L.
Because the led was reflowed on the (frp) driver board which is glued in, a swap always seemed unreachable for me. But since then I bought my Antex 80W solder iron (The Beast). So this morning it occurred to me that with everything in place, just remove the bezel and TIR, I could heat up the brass post from below and get the led hot enough to melt the solder, and indeed that worked and I could reflow a nice 3000K 90CRI XM-L2, the last one I found in my led box from the good first batch that KD had (they since changed to a different batch with worse tint above the BBL).
Now I like the DQG18650twisty again, still the smallest and lightest weight 18650 light in my collection, and now with great tint. It has low14lm-med144lm-high316lm, here’s the colour data measured in the hotspot of high and low:
High:
Low:
Do you know the bin codes djozz? Does it happen to be S6 7D3?
Originally Ban listed 7A3 while his pic of the reel showed 7A4. So the information is at least inconsistent.
We will never know what we got after he started selling the new batch.
With the original driver, on the maximum mode, in 10 minutes to about 40-42 degrees. I didn’t torture me further, I don’t shoot
It is necessary to recognize that the heating is insignificant, which is not surprising, with such currents
I failed to reflow 3x white flats on an old C8F mcpcb. To make myself feel better im going to blame the pad spacing or something.
Slapped together a X6 Shorty Flat White pocket thrower 115kcd…
830-835lm at turn on pulling 5.8amps 20mm board, contact surfaces honed/stoned flat, polished and screwed down. 771lms at 30 seconds.
Meh…blue bling tail cap…
Measured the Turbo Flat White today 695kcd
Beautiful mods KawiBoy 
Thanks luminarium iaculator 
Turn on at 5.5amps…after a couple test bumps…
Look Ma No Centering Ring! :cry: We having fun now…. :person_facepalming:
I bored the original shelf out, I was just too thin, and made a press fit copper pill with a seating ledge (for the reflector) and centering pocket (for the board) that centers the mcpcb and the reflector together, to get the canter out at the top of the reflector, I used a bit of Kapton tape. Never again… this is the last time I swap emitters out of this one… 
Nice! I am also fan of centering without centering ring.
Orsm job KB.
Changed the Utorch UT02 from a boosted XHP-35 thrower to a totally different kind of light… built a Zener modified FET driver with 8.4V LVP and 7 modes with reversing action through the e-switch, stuck it in the UT02 with an MT-G2.
Edit: On a pair of 26350 cells fully charged it makes 3600+ lumens.
Edit II: Tail current shows 5.96A from the little fat half cells.
Since my C8F white flat re-flow didn’t pan out I put some shaved dome SST-20 4000K’s in an 18650 C8F.
I got 50kcd and ~1,700 lumens
It doesn’t look very centered to me so i’m sure there’s a better result if you just had to have a 95CRI thrower.
Do these cell’s make my tail look fat?
LOL, I think they’re cute but YMMV….
Built a C8 to try out a single unique XP-L HI I bought a while ago.
It’s an XP-L HI 75CRI 5000K…when I compare it to a V2 3A I guess I would say it’s about the same spot along the BBL but it’s slightly cooler white?
Anyways, got around 1,270lm and 108kcd… believe it or not my first C8 mod. The LED is nice but I probably wouldn’t spend $7.35 on it again cause the usual suspects seem good enough (V2 5D and V3 1A)
That F4 is a freaky light.
I was only mentioning the Olsons because of a recent post I saw of a D4 converted to them. The beamshots looked quite throwy for what it was. I just thought it may be interesting to have a small form factor tube light with two different optics and emitter options to give a potentially more versatile light depending on task.