Sofirn SP70 Alone $50, PM for AMZ US CODE(LIMITED)

Sofirn should really keep developing the SMO even if they end up not using it for this exact light.

If they put in the effort they could have a reusable host and choose a single die thrower LED (white flat, dedomed, SST40, whatever) w/ buck driver and immediately have a competitive new 1500M throwerā€¦

Look at what Maxtoch did with the Shooter 2x. Seems to have stood the test of time and has evolved with multiple LED options (including XHP70). Now they also have a new larger shooter coming out with 2x21700 and a bigger reflector.

Each short cut Sofirn takes is probably costing them extra time in the long run and quality of future lights. They are designing too many entirely new lights and maintaining way too many inferior products. Spend the time to do it right and make something that will define your brand which you can make incremental changes to. Emisar, Olight, etc have people re-buying the same well designed lights in new LEDs/ano colors/metals all the time.

To be clear, the only Sofirn reps Iā€™ve talked to and who posted on this thread (as far as I know) is Tracy.

I don't mean to contradict you Jason but my perception here is that Sofirn's BLF account might be also used by other team members of Sofirn. For instance, "Adelina" is frequently communicating on TLF but when I wrote Sofirn here on BLF she also read my messages, so that supports my theory that the account is not solely used by Tracy.

Yeahā€¦ I have gotten PMā€™s from three different people on that account. Which does not bother me, they all were very helpful.

But in this thread, judging from different answers given; it does seem a bit as if the left hand does not know what the right is doing. :smiley: . Iā€™m sure it will get sorted out though. :wink:

Or its one person with a personality disorder hahaha

I mean i talk to my self on the odd occasion lol

/\ For all we know it actually could be the same person using different names. :smiley:

The metal strips to make battery packs for tools are nickel.
Steel is horrible as conductor. I have never read what kind of material they are. I could be a coating.

Without doubt the can of a cell is steel, magnetic in other words. The top cap, or positive contact surface, is also magnetic so it too is steel regardless of whether or not it has a coating on it to prevent rust or tarnish from developing. Use magnetic lead chargers and you find out really quick which cells have non-steel base plates covering the protection circuit and such.

Use flat tops in a series light and stick a magnet on the positive cap, it also sticks to the negative end of the cell and they come out of the light together, like a stick. Steel. Otherwise the magnet would not attach.

Donā€™t know that it matters to this discussion, but my nickel 200 is magnetic

I just heard back from Tracy.

I will leave this up to you guys since I am okay with a cooler tint.

Do most people here prefer the 5350-5700K tint?

Iā€™m ok with cooler tint as well.

Something in the 5000k range is more usable I think.

NW is the way to go its a better overall option for all the none modders out there. Should around the same output but arguably be a more usable beam to most.

I am going to slice my dome so cold white is best for me but i will take one for the team lol

I think that is well established. I donā€™t remember on which project it was done, but polls showed clearly that the meat of the bell curve in terms of BLF CCT choice was in the 4500-5500 range. For many the 3D bin of the original Q8 is just about perfect. Those who prefer the cool tints of 6000 and above are a minority, but significant enough that it makes sense to offer that as an option, especially as the wider (uninitiated) public tend to go for the cooler varieties, probably due to disappointment with warm white lightbulbs, which tend to be far too warm and seem dim by comparison to cool white.

This!

Yesā€¦ 5350K - 5700K is fine, as was the original planā€¦.but no warmer than 5350 K.
If they go a bit cooler that works too. :+1:

Preferably an A or D below the BBL.

To be more specific, do most people here prefer the 5350-5700K tint even though it may push back the production schedule?

I donā€™t know how much time it may add, a couple weeks minimum I would guess. Anything less would not be a big deal. It could be 4 to 6 weeks, though. If the demand for 5350-5700K is strong enough, I would say itā€™s worth the delay. Especially if it results in higher sales.

Iā€™ll ask Tracy if she knows how much of a delay it will add.

I would prefer something between 4500-5000 K.

I donā€™t like blue light
Still wondering why most people seem to love harsh blue Cold White light :confounded:

Nickel, iron an cobalt are the magnetic metals I have learned. Hmm, a cobalt flashlight, I read that cobalt-chrome alloys have good featuresā€¦

Tracy says they can NOT glue the drivers, but it wonā€™t have a retaining ring. The battery tube will screw in and tighten against it. So under normal circumstances where you only unscrew the tailcap to install batteries, things will be fine. If you unscrew the battery tube, the driver might be a bit loose.

I am okay with this. Anything is better than fighting glue.