I’m ok with cooler tint as well.
Something in the 5000k range is more usable I think.
NW is the way to go its a better overall option for all the none modders out there. Should around the same output but arguably be a more usable beam to most.
I am going to slice my dome so cold white is best for me but i will take one for the team lol
I think that is well established. I don’t remember on which project it was done, but polls showed clearly that the meat of the bell curve in terms of BLF CCT choice was in the 4500-5500 range. For many the 3D bin of the original Q8 is just about perfect. Those who prefer the cool tints of 6000 and above are a minority, but significant enough that it makes sense to offer that as an option, especially as the wider (uninitiated) public tend to go for the cooler varieties, probably due to disappointment with warm white lightbulbs, which tend to be far too warm and seem dim by comparison to cool white.
This!
Yes… 5350K - 5700K is fine, as was the original plan….but no warmer than 5350 K.
If they go a bit cooler that works too. :+1:
Preferably an A or D below the BBL.
To be more specific, do most people here prefer the 5350-5700K tint even though it may push back the production schedule?
I don’t know how much time it may add, a couple weeks minimum I would guess. Anything less would not be a big deal. It could be 4 to 6 weeks, though. If the demand for 5350-5700K is strong enough, I would say it’s worth the delay. Especially if it results in higher sales.
I’ll ask Tracy if she knows how much of a delay it will add.
I would prefer something between 4500-5000 K.
I don’t like blue light
Still wondering why most people seem to love harsh blue Cold White light 
Nickel, iron an cobalt are the magnetic metals I have learned. Hmm, a cobalt flashlight, I read that cobalt-chrome alloys have good features…
Tracy says they can NOT glue the drivers, but it won’t have a retaining ring. The battery tube will screw in and tighten against it. So under normal circumstances where you only unscrew the tailcap to install batteries, things will be fine. If you unscrew the battery tube, the driver might be a bit loose.
I am okay with this. Anything is better than fighting glue.
We don’t even have a clue when the light will be finished as is. So it doesn’t really matter if we wait a bit longer?
Nobody is talking about “harsh blue Cold White”. Your eyes may be more sensitive to the color blue, than most people.
Wonder why not have driver retain ring ?
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Nah but on a serious note as Jason has said as far as we know the light is going ahead as planned which includes a driver retaining ring
I really do not think “most people seem to love harsh blue Cold White light” or even really like it. Most people do not like the urine yellow of Warm White light either.
So make it as close to True Neutral Whitetm as possible. Adding little tint either warm or cool.
They already designed the CNC cutting programs and set the battery tube length, etc… to not have a retaining ring. Prototypes have been made. I’m guessing they don’t want to have to redesign everything just to add a retaining ring.
Did you see post 1362, quoted below??
Nope i missed it i probably skimmed past that part. This sucks big time!
/\ … 
I don’t think I have seen a 6000-6500 light that I wouldn’t describe as having angry blue, or even purple elements.
Likewise anything I have seen below about 4500 seems to make everything white look like it is stained yellow.
We all perceive things differently, but to me at least it is clear that the closer to 5000 the more true the colours look, below that things appear warmer and maybe more relaxing, above that things appear fresher, but with visible blue tints. Nothing else I have comes close to my D4 5000K Nichia high CRI in side-by-side comparisons.