What did you mod today?

Thnx. Verry nice and warm around the house lights now and muggle proof on nihm.

Never Ender beam :slight_smile:

:smiley:

:laughing: Never Ender beam. I had top read this twice before it sunk in. :person_facepalming:

“What did you mod today?”
I could better say; “what did I destroy today?”

Wanted to change the LEDs in de jaxman e2l for some LH351D’s.

First I desoldered the driver and wires.
Then I wanted to pry out the board.
I don’t know what type of glue they used but it doesn’t want to come out…
I lost my patience and went on a rampage, destroying the LEDs and led board.
And its still stuck in there. :rage:
Looks like I’m going to order a host and let this one sit for a while.

Ha Thijs, since the board is toast anyway, remove the driver and heat the head up to very very hot (not so hot as to decolour the ano) and see if the glue will give in.

Definitely worth a try.

After heating it up some more the board finally came loose.

But the new board doesn’t fit, it’s too big…
So I’ll take the head to my work where I hopefully can machine the inside a little bit bigger.

It is much easier to sand a bit off the new board. I use a disc sander for that, but even by hand it should not take too long, you only need to go from 20 to 19 mm.

Ahahaha :slight_smile: I like this :beer:

It would be nice to open such thread…. Seriously… I think it could be very popular here.

I think there is one. I fifn’t remember the thread name.
Edit:
Here you go

Ah yes there it is :smiley: :beer: :beer:

I got the new Sofirn SP33 today, they changed up the old version to the XHP-50.2 and made some small changes, biggest of which is the boost driver of course but also an Orange Peel reflector. Mine had a horrid beam profile, so I sliced and diced the 50.2 to not only clean up the aura but also warm it somewhat, it started out very cool white, almost with a lavender hue. After removing the dome, there was still a discolored greenish center to the hot spot so I made a different centering ring work and raised the reflector about 1 mm, not completely right but much better and I can live with it. I think it’s now making a little over 2200 lumens, pretty decent.

I had put an 50.2 in a Utorch UT02, sliced and diced it this morning before the SP33 came in so it’s been a day of cleaning up flip chip aura’s. :slight_smile:

I almost sat down to do my first proper mod – two driver swaps on my older Convoy S2 and my single C8. Unfortunately I found out (thankfully ahead of time) that I need flux to make good solders :person_facepalming:

Glad I never found that out, I wouldn’t have been able to do the 500+ mods I’ve done as I don’t have flux nor have I ever… :wink:

You have trust in your skills, it works as a fine substitute :smiley:

I never could solder until I started working on flashlights. Got the Hakko 888 station and some .031 Kester solder and it suddenly got much easier. Before you know it I was stacking 7135’s… :wink:

Flux helped me a bit when i tried to use lead free as a beginner. Since i switched to leaded solder I dont even bother with flux. I dont care what it says it makes a sticky mess.

I may try lead free again now that i have a couple dozens mods under my belt, but maybe not. It just works

I use organic flux, the “washer fluid”-looking stuff. Works a treat. No idea what’s in it, maybe M-stoff and water, who knows.

Wiring up some small resistors to eliminate the dreaded “hyperflash” when using LED bulbs, and needed the Evil Third Hand to hold the wire and resistor against each other, sooooooooo precariously. Slightest jiggle, and they pull apart.

Wellp, a drop of organic flux to sizzle away, apply a blob of molten solder, and it’d flow nicely… but almost instantly skin-over and turn ugly. Needed a coupla more passes with flux+iron to get a solid (haha) connection without snapping apart.

Without flux, it’d turn butt-ugly and might not even be a good joint.

Then again, I was going easy on the heat, not cranking it up like I usually do. Didn’t want to turn the wire-insulation into “bellbottoms” (melting, pulling-back, and bunching up).

On, say, soldering a through-hole component on a peecee board, where you can press hard and get good heat transfer, the rosin-core in the solder is often enough.

I’ve always used lead free solder with no flux other than what’s already in it.
Not that difficult to get a good solder joint, at least now that I have a good quality soldering iron.

I’ve always just used butter.