Emisar D4S review

I have replaced a couple, in single LED lights but replacing 4 at a time sounds like a chore instead of being fun.

Hank will get some 5000k high CRI’s at some point in time, I can wait.

Thanks for the comparison. I really like the SST-20 3000k HD2 tint bin from Kaidomain and this is the same HD2 tint bin except one flux bin higher :+1:

Thanks for answering, yes, I like it on the Nichias, but the 1000 lumens difference between them is there. The 4000k SSST-20s wouldn’t be too warm?

4000k is probably more on the warmer side so if u dont want that at all u should get min 5000k tint then.

Thanks, I’ve just ordered it with XP-L HD V6 3D. :+1:

white flat 2mm would be really nice.
sst20 also nice but i rather wait for white flat. does anybody now if this is really gone be an option

I got the PL47 in SST-20 4000K 95 CRI and was concerned about it being too warm for my taste. I hadn’t seen the SST-20’s before. The light came in and I found the tint to be very nice, on the warm side of white but not real warm, acceptable even to me. But, alas, the light is being gifted. To remedy that, I promptly ordered another light for me with the SST-20’s. :smiley: (not an PL47)

I’m a little bit on the fence regarding the emitters for my next flashlight. So many choices (which is fantastic) but I’m stuck.

My choices are between the SST-20 4000K 95CRI and the XP-L HI V2 5D, 4000K.

They have similar throw from what Hank reports on his site and even though the XP-L throws a little better, that’s not my intended use for this light. The XP-L has about 1000 more lumens over the SST-20 but I wonder if it’s really meaningful on a visible and heat-related level. If it cranks out more lumens, I’d guess that there’d be more heat and a quicker stepdown. If it’s a bit brighter for a very short amount of time, it’s not worth the extra $ as well. The advantage of the SST-20 for me is the High CRI and lower cost. The HI has been reported to be a pretty efficient emitter but what’s the limit for lumens in a light this size?

Any thoughts to make me lean toward one over the other? I’m thinking that the SST-20 is the better choice for me.

Maybe a discussion of how many lumens are reasonable for a light this size. It’s fun to ramp it up and wow friends and scare pests in my gardens, but if it’s not sustainable (like my D4), then I’d rather go for a different choice. What do you think?

Could someone please post a beamshot comparison between the SST-20 4000K 95CRI and the XPL-HI V2 3A? Thanks in advance!

The opposite should be the case. If we asume power consumption is the same -> more lumens = more efficient = less heat. Basically power is transformed in light and heat. Less light means more heat.

Cheers
Jan

Received, Exactly as ordered 3000 K, shipping time was no longer than normal.
$50 for a custom built light with good electronics and strong/versatile UI.

I can understand that. Thanks for making it clearer in my mind and taking the time to respond.

I have never found Luminus emitters to be among the class of efficient emitters. Quite the opposite, in my experience Luminus emitters burn through tremendous current while producing a grudging amount of lumens. The SBT-70 is a favorite emitter of mine, but for it’s build structure and round die as well as daylight tint… certainly not for efficiency!

As of today I now have both of these. I already had a couple of other SST-20 4000K 95CRI lights so I knew what to expect. As far as tint the XP-L HI V2 5D, 4000K hits the sweet spot for me but I really like the high CRI of the SST20 which also has a tighter hot spot (so a bit more throw) It also heats up faster than the XP-L HI V2 5D. The choice for me was to have both :person_facepalming:

Got my Gray D4S with Amber (Orange) Aux LEDs and 3000k SST20 95 CRI emitters in today.

This newer D4S has chamfered edges along the laynard ring. The first D4S I received had seemingly sharper edges along the ring.

The amber leds are actually just straight orange, and I find them disgusting on high mode, but when on dimmest mode, they look like faintly glowing embers, and is a very nice, natural aesthetic.

The 3000k SST20 95cri emitters are absolutely fantastic. Nice, slightly rosy, warm color— very much like a 3-3200k tungsten halogen bulb. No filters needed on these! Beam profile is almost exactly like my Zebralight SC600 MK3 HI, where there’s a smallish, but evenly filled hotspot, minimal corona, and a largish and useful spill. My previous D4S was the 219C model, and the beam profile was less desirable to me: the hotspot was around the same size, but less defined, and there was a huge corona around it. The 219C also had an ugly green cast to it.

The 95cri SST20 emitters are pure win.

Great to hear. I have a 3000k ST20 with amber on order from Hank also.

Twisted raven, I also got my 2 (more) D4’s (not S) today—one 4000K SST-20 and one 3000K SST-20. The 3000K is the warmest light I’ve even owned and was warmer than I anticipated but I agree it’s pretty sick. The 4000K is quite similar to my 5000K Nichias, but yes, a tighter hotspot, very noticeable in throw even for the D4, and no green. I think a 50/50 mix of the 3000K and 4000K would be pretty awesome, but I’m going to try not to remove the bezel from these and “Just let them be” for once.
Cheers

I replaced my amber Aux leds for Cyan Aux leds to match the PL47 Aux Leds. It was super easy to do, great design went into these Emisar lights, wish Hank did his version of the PL47.

Got my green amber D4S 4000k SST-20. I like the hardware but the UI is a disappointment. If the old Emisar UI was near perfect then the new FSM based RampingIOS V3 has the same little annoying differences that Anduril has:

  1. Delayed turn off. This makes the light feel sluggish and unresponsive.
  2. Moonlight on button down when turning the light on. If I want to turn on moonlight from off state with click-hold then the timing needs to be perfect. If its too short I get the memorized brightness level, if its too long the light starts ramping up. Most often I end up with too short press because of this “fake” moonlight on button down press (press the button, see the moonlight, think “on nice, that’s what I wanted”, release the button too soon, BOOM!!! get 1000 lumens of memorized brightness).

It never ceases to amaze me how many different takes people can have on a product.

I LOVE Anduril, pure and simple. There are no glitches as far as I’m concerned, but then I’ve been using it in multiple lights at many different power levels for quite a while now and it’s second nature to me. Whether it’s the green emitter D4 or the 25,000 lumen 458 Ham’r, I can count on consistency of operation and the features I’ve learned to cherish are always there across the board, regardless of whether I picked up the little TK05 or the SP-03, D4S or ODL-20… or any of the others.

Seems to me if someone’s life is lived in a nanosecond environment (not the laid back camping scenario pictured in oto’s avatar) then a more professional and expensive light would be necessary. Mayhap that’s just my relaxed view, having had so much experience with so many lesser interfaces over the past half a decade and hundreds of lights. Diversity can be a good thing for competition, can also be devastating when trying to get anything done…. good examples of this lie in our own group buys with several thousand arguments about what should and shouldn’t be and the project taking a virtual forever to see reality. Designing perfection is certainly a chore I for one do not wish to be put upon with…