(prototype) the GT Mini

Gt mini is a FET+1.
Just to have the info posted heres the BOM (I cloned the GT mini driver when making my FET+1 drivers)

R1 FET Pull-down: 100k <1%
R2 Gate resistor : 47ohm
R3 input filter : 4.7ohm
R4 voltage divider high side : 910k
R5 voltage divider low side : 300k
R6 AUX LED: 10K <1%
C1 10uF X5R or X7R
C1 0.1uF
FET LFPAK56 (SO8 also fits same pad)

Thanks, thats what I was thinking. So any brightness level above the 7135’s 0.35A current (about 200 lumen) will be going through the FET.

Sorta. ToyKeeper has explained it all in intricate detail before but the FET kicks in with PWM over the ceiling of the 7135… the 7135 keeps putting out 100% along with the increasing level of the FET right up until level 7, where the 7135 is cut off and it’s 100% FET.

Not so easy to say how many lumens the 350mA of the 7135 chip produces as that number will be dependent on the emitter used, cell used, efficiency of the circuit, a number of things.

Edit: Mine (GT Mini) has a Samsung LH351D 80 CRI 5000K emitter and makes 168 lumens at the 7135 chip ceiling , from an LG HG6 20650 cell well rested.
EditII: Another light using an XP-L HI from a 26650 makes 164 lumens, also well rested using a LiitoKala Black.
EditIII: My little TK05 using a 14500 cell and the 80 CRI Samsung makes 156 lumens at the top of the 7135 chip.
EditIV: On an extreme end, my 458 Ham’r is making 862 lumens at the top of the 7135 chip output.

While we are talking about a single emitter here, my Quad D1S makes 531 on the ceiling of the 7135 chip. So there are indeed variables…

Thanks CK and DB for clearing that up.

Thanks JasonWW for reading every post in this thread and setting me str8 on the misprinted manual. I only recently received this light I have not had a chance to dismantle it.

I do like the light but the error/glitch in the UI is annoying.

I see what you mean. The fact of the matter is that a dbl clk is not designed to return to the previous level. I think it’s just a glitch that it does (assuming you have blinkies disabled and are below the ramp top).

The solution is to just slow down your button presses. Don’t try to dbl click. Just let the light turn off and back on. This is how all my other Narsil based lights works.

Or, if you like that ability, don’t run it at the top of the ramp. Run it just below the top.

Yep, all my other Narsil based lights have this glitch also

Edit- Now I know its not a switch problem.

Thanks

The original GT also has a glitch ,if you click 3 times for the battery volt check then click to exit,
If you turn the light on within a few seconds the gt will switch off but it acts normal if you wait a few more seconds befor turning on.

I am happy to report i recieved replacement head from Neal’s gadgets. Switch feels alot different and has great tactile response. So far no problems. Consider my issue resolved :wink:

Unless I missed someone, I count 17 people to date who have posted about switch problems. They are….

  • djozz // Reported RESOLVED
  • mortuus // RESOLVED
  • teacher // RESOLVED
  • RobertB // Reported RESOLVED
    ………
  • gabo // RESOLVED
  • Cereal_killer /
  • Jhicks2018 // RESOLVED
  • P33 / // RESOLVED (“partial refund” reported)
  • Coyotehawk
  • X3 / // RESOLVED (PayPal dispute refund)
  • illuminos
  • Silent_Star /
  • Juheebus / // RESOLVED (Replacement head)
  • mb200k
  • Pulstar // RESOLVED
  • A92AA0B03E / // RESOLVED (Replacement head)
  • komeko // RESOLVED

Anyone else having any type GT Mini switch problems besides the people I mentioned above??
………
List updated. Pulstar & komeko RESOLVED, 30 December 2018

Neal ignored me. He promised to send new head and the promise was over. Paypal gave me money so I consider the topic closed to me.

Sorry to hear you were ignored komeko. :frowning: … But glad you were at least able to resolve it thru PayPal. :+1:

I updated your name in the list above.

Not a problem with the switch but inside the head of one of my GT mini’s (I bought 4 from Neal) something is rattling. I reported this to Neal. He asked for a video which I sent him a few days ago. So far he didn’t reply yet.

Maybe the centering ring for the reflector is missing? If so, don’t run it at high brightness levels. You might burn up the led.

No, the centering ring for the reflector isn’t missing. Unfortunately I can’t get the bezel off because it seems glued and I don’t want to damage the finish.

About the only other thing I can think of would be a completely loose anti rotation screw. If that’s the case, there is a chance it could create a short between the positive lead and the reflector.

It ’could’ also be a loose piece of solder…… possibly.

Based on the sound it could be the reflector and/or the window.

If the centering ring is there, maybe the o-ring is missing. Assuming the o-ring applies pressure to the lens and reflector. You might add a little heat to the bezel (hair dryer, heat gun, etc…) and see if you can loosen it.

Is the lens (window) loose??
Press on it & shake the light and see if the sound stops.

When I press hard on the lens it helps but there is still some rattling. Neal still didn’t reply. :frowning: