No, no, no way! That blue package in the middle is the one I ordered. :smiling_imp:
If I have a real shipping problem with a package from China I contact this guy, Wu Lo Wun; to fix it!
Look closely at his right hand. See the scanner & the package?? Just one of mine he got ’back on track”.
He is a good guy to know…… 
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With Aliexpress, you have to confirm that your order was recieved.
Have you tried your tracking number on 17track?
He's the guy "in the know" :D
Sorry bud, it's mine 
:+1: … Yep, he is…. ’THE FIXER’ !! … 
After X amount of days it expires and completes the order on it’s own. Always check when the buyer protection ends. If you hadn’t received it you should have requested an extension on the protection, if ignored, open a dispute with proof of the invalid tracking
Yeh, I got a notice a delivery had been completed, when it hadn’t — a week later the package arrived.
I also found a very good deal on a flashlight on the 11/11 sale by some place called “Madeline Store”. After a month I inquired and the seller told me it had been lost in transit, please cancel. I pointed out they were still selling the same flashlight at 2x the price, so they could send me one. I got a reply saying the flashlight I ordered had failed quality control and they weren’t going to ship it, please cancel.
I’m tempted to try to be annoying. But I suspect that’s a mug’s game.
Shorter: Ali is just a sale-and-payment collector for a lot of little operators, some of them more reliable than others.
I’ve been given the “failed quality control” notice and it was due to EMS stopping batteries inside the flashlights to New Zealand. Never had an issue with China post though unless it’s batteries on their own.
Ok wut. That’s not normal.
As long as it is shipped inside of the light, it should not be a problem at all.
That was a year ago, maybe okay now but I use “a special airline” (that’s what Sofirn call it) for bare cells as well, costs quite a bit though. I always buy in bulk as I resell online here.
I was keen on getting a few SP33’s but a couple have pointed out unusual driver behavior and short runtime on Turbo and High. Think I’ll stick with the SP36 & Q8
What? Please explain.
So your not bothered by the issues of the SP36 and Q8?
As seen below there’s issues with modes at room temp
Ignore my comment on poor runtime. I didn’t fully read the comment that was based off of the manual, not an actual test.
The only issue I’ve encountered with 2 out of 5 Q8’s stepping down using temperature for ramping. First it activates turbo then starts ramping up from moonlight. Annoying but can either be covered like you suggested or change to timed step down.
I’m guessing the SP36 would have this since it’s the same firmware. Any other issues?
EDIT: I’m not bothered by dark spots, donut in hotspot, glued driver. Just issues on how it operates that could effect sales.
Are you being serious? Just because two people had a problem you think that problem is found in all the lights?
No flashlight ever made is going to have a 100% perfect production run. Take any model from any company and there will always be a couple of faulty ones. Always.
For the record, my SP33 v2 works perfectly, there are no dark spots or donut shaped hotspot or any other such nonsense.
I discovered last night that I loose both turbo AND high below 3.9v cell voltage. This is with good condition KK26650’s. I’m currently depleting a pair of 30Q’s (the most capable cells I own) down to exactly 3.95v in my hobby charger to test later today.
Once this cell voltage is hit and I try to step up to turbo the light will almost immediately (a second or two) step back down to medium and will then only cycle through the 2 lower modes while holding the button, even after a power cycle the light will only ever come back on and cycle low->medium.
Can anyone else test for this issue? Regardless of voltage are there any conditions in which others are loosing both turbo AND high? To clarify its not like the light is going low-med-med when this happens like it just can’t pull the amps it needs, it’s ONLY cycling through the two modes, low-med-low-med-low-med back and forth.
I’m not too concerned as I made pretty good progress on my driver boards the last few days and plan to make my
sp33 a 3v light asap, plan now is to try both LH351D and luxeon V2 and see which I like the beam of better. Unfortunately the stock daughter board isn’t usable as the switch and switch LED pins arnt broke out and I’m getting tired of air wiring connections from 1mm pitch pads lol.
I don’t know at what voltage it started but mine would cycle L>M, L>M and double tap would go into turbo and stay there but it was only at the high lumen level. Also, no 2 minute step down when at this “turbo” level. When I checked the battery it was about 3.7 but that was after some running.
This is exactly what I reported at the beginning of this thread. I loose Turbo at 3.70 volts.
If you are loosing turbo at a higher voltage, make sure your battery connections are clean. Dirt or grease on the springs or battery tube ends might be causing a small voltage drop making the driver think the battery is at 3.7 or less.
As I said at the beginning of this thread, you will loose Turbo and High at 3.40 volts.
At 3.70 volts you loose turbo. Then the light will only cycle between low and medium. A double click takes you to High.
Same here. When my 26650 battery hits 3.9Volts, I lose Turbo and High.
Of course, I’ve had a FAULTY driver from the getgo.
I’d like another SP33 when they hit Amazon USA. Had it not been for Sofirn’s help, I don’t think the refund would have been handled as quickly as it was. That’s why I would wait on Amazon. Don’t care to be jousted around by Ali.
Yeh, I’m looking for a good sample of this torch. I like it. Size is perfect in hand. :+1:
So is it working properly if you lose turbo at 3.7?